speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

The converter should take more if you bring it in slow. If you run a progressive controller link the NOS mini, you might get it to take more than you think.

ragtopz28

iTrader: (57)

^^He speaketh the truth^^

typedRew

I have a NOS Mini sitting around from a previous project, I had planned to use it. I usually inject progressive, even small shots.

I've only ever done manual trans cars however, any tips on how to 'bring it in slow' with a loose converter? The slippage and shift extension throw me off when I try to think of how to set it up. Should it just be a time delay? Mph Or rpm based?

Thanks for the advice, appreciate it.

- Drew

typedRew

Anybody else?

Still curious on this.

- Drew

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I might delay it on the hit for maybe .5 then set the initial at 10% all in by the 1.5-2.0 second mark for starters. You will have to experiment.

loudblack97z71

iTrader: (2)

Working off the car in your sig. You're moving in the right direction with the stall. I'd go with 3:73 gears or 3:42's if you find them cheap.

I see no mention of headers in your sig, thats a must to let it breathe. run a dumped ORY to save weight.

I ran mid 11's in a bolt-on car similar to yours. Race weight was about 3150 plus my 180 lbs. Your LS1 might be a little more tired at 190K vs my low mileage example.

I could've touched 10's with a 100 dry shot most likely.

If you're goal is to hit 10's on a budget, I'd start tearing weight off the car. Alot of that stuff is easily put back on if you're worried about it. If you can score a cam and supporting parts (springs/hardened rods) in the classifieds for cheap, do the install yourself and you can probably get close NA.

typedRew

I plan on driving the car a lot with my family during the summer, so I won't be removing much interior stuff. I will be trash canning weight wherever I can without sacrificing comfort. And moving as much weight as I can to the rear while removing as much as I can from the front. Don't really want to swap back and forth, rather run it like I drive it everyday.

Do also have a complete suspension overhaul in progress. And yes I am installing a full 6 speed, 3.42, 10 bolt in the car right now as well. Mine with the 2.73s was making terrible noise and almost felt like it was 'dragging' the car.

I am installing 1 7/8in SE longtubes and Huron Speed 3" true dual exhaust and building a Sux2BU ram as as well. The tune will be spot on as well after all is said and done.

Plan is to get close and add as little nitrous as possible to get there, then next winter i'll swap converter for something more nitrous friendly and dig a little deeper into the 10's with more spray. That's when stuff will start breaking.

I do plan on a cam, but would like to get as close as possible SI and dial everything in around that.

- Drew

Jarred Hodges

my car went a 6.96 at 96 with a 1.49 60ft. At the time it had an ls6 intake, lid, headers with an ory and cutout and a 225/229 cam. it was full weight with a 190lb driver 3600 revmax converter stock 10 bolt with 3.42's and a nozzle kit jetted for 150 with a 63n jet. The car had 105k miles and blew threw the converter on the dyno and stuttered bad going into 3rd. It made 355hp na and 436hp on spray. A lot of guys have had good luck with 4l60e's but I have not, I would plan on a built transmission if you plan to run in the high 10's to low 11's for any amount of time. Here is a video of that pass, I know I was sleeping bad on the line lol