*VIDEOS* Bangin gears and pulling the wheels into the 10s with my all motor M6 WS.6
02-23-2015, 04:10 PM
#1
*VIDEOS* Bangin gears and pulling the wheels into the 10s with my all motor M6 WS.6 Went to the track a couple times this last season with my cars new setup. I'm still getting it figured out but seems like each pass it gets faster, and I've left both outings on my last pass being a new personal best. Looking forward to this season and squeezing some more out of it!
Cars an all motor LS2 403, always driven to and from the track. Trans is a near stock T56, just with a few upgrades like bronze fork pads, steel shift fork, billet sliders, and carbon blockers. Erik at HKE did the machine work and assembly of the rotating assembly, and I did every other last detail on the car besides the tuning which was handled by James@Shortuning.
I have a two step which I played around with on some runs and made some without it just to see what it liked. It also aids in the shifts cause it activates each time the clutch is depressed and cuts some torque out. My last and fastest pass of the day I launched it pretty hard, got a good deal of wheelspin, and my 60s dropped from the 1.51-1.52s it had been pulling, and went 1.54, but the 330 and ultimately the 1/8th and 1/4 times were faster.
Here's an idle clip first and the runs are in order after that. They are pretty clear if you manually select the quality.
Cars an all motor LS2 403, always driven to and from the track. Trans is a near stock T56, just with a few upgrades like bronze fork pads, steel shift fork, billet sliders, and carbon blockers. Erik at HKE did the machine work and assembly of the rotating assembly, and I did every other last detail on the car besides the tuning which was handled by James@Shortuning.
I have a two step which I played around with on some runs and made some without it just to see what it liked. It also aids in the shifts cause it activates each time the clutch is depressed and cuts some torque out. My last and fastest pass of the day I launched it pretty hard, got a good deal of wheelspin, and my 60s dropped from the 1.51-1.52s it had been pulling, and went 1.54, but the 330 and ultimately the 1/8th and 1/4 times were faster.
Here's an idle clip first and the runs are in order after that. They are pretty clear if you manually select the quality.
03-03-2015, 10:06 PM
#7
I'm also shooting for 10s next week or so with my 408 M6 WS6. If you dont mind me asking, what rpm do you have the 2 step set at, what kind of 2 step, and does it have 2 different limiters or is it going back to the launch rpm when you shift?
I have a lnc-2000 that I put in last fall but havent used it yet. Thinking about starting at 4,500 rpm and adjusting from there
I have a lnc-2000 that I put in last fall but havent used it yet. Thinking about starting at 4,500 rpm and adjusting from there
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03-04-2015, 01:26 AM
#8
I'm also shooting for 10s next week or so with my 408 M6 WS6. If you dont mind me asking, what rpm do you have the 2 step set at, what kind of 2 step, and does it have 2 different limiters or is it going back to the launch rpm when you shift?
I have a lnc-2000 that I put in last fall but havent used it yet. Thinking about starting at 4,500 rpm and adjusting from there
I have a lnc-2000 that I put in last fall but havent used it yet. Thinking about starting at 4,500 rpm and adjusting from there
It's really gonna depend on ur suspension, tires, and track prep on what u can launch at. If ur running some decent stuff ur gonna find that you'll never even consider leaving anywhere in the 4k range. I wish I could tell u which of the passes above were at what rpm but I really can't remember exactly. I know the go pro pass I didn't use the two step and just held the rpms steady. I'm pretty damn sure it was around 6. The last pass where it ran the fastest I did launch it off the two step and set the highest all day, and it spun and slowed down on the 60 but went faster everywhere else, it's still set at whatever rpm that was. I'll look tomorrow and see. It was over 6 tho.
The two step is a lingenfelter model, I'll have to look at it to tell u which one. It doesn't have the timing retard feature for nitrous like one of their models does. Yes it has two rpm limits but I did a down and dirty hook up in a hurry to be able to run with it. So I haven't messed with the second limit yet but would like to. I think it would be of benefit to set it higher than the launch and use it for the engine rev limit instead of the pcms fuel cutoff.
What tires and suspension will u be running? And that race weight in ur sig is a typo right? 4300 lbs? That's way way over a full weight car, even with a heavy driver. My car weighed around 3430(without me)with nothing more than the rear seats and spare/jack removed when I weighed it back in the day when it was just a bolt on car.
03-04-2015, 02:47 AM
#9
TECH Veteran
This is what I love! A mean *** 6 speed all motor car that's actually driven!! What heads do all the grimy work on your motor ?
03-04-2015, 03:05 AM
#10
AFR 230s. No additional massaging to the runners or chambers, but I went to great lengths setting my valve train up as precisely as possible using some quality components.
03-04-2015, 06:48 AM
#11
TECH Veteran
Best thread here I seen in awhile!! it just amazes me how those heads really gets the job done in the real world. Very impressive for a cylinder head right out the box!! I'm willing to bet the FAST intake is also out of the box also......
03-04-2015, 08:11 AM
#12
Damn launching over 6k with a mostly stock T-56! Thats great. Mine is about the same as yours so hopefully I'll have good luck. Thanks for the info. Also thanks for catching my typo, its supposed to be estimated 3,300lb race weight.
For suspension I have a full Midwest Chassis front including chromoly spindles and drag brakes, chromoly front and rear bumper supports, and full rear suspension. Torque arm is tunnel mount, and no rubber or poly bushings on anything its all solid ends (except for rear sway bar). Viking double adjustable socks up front with 300# springs and welded in Wolfe 2.5" adjustable spring mounts in rear with 150# 2.5"x 12" springs and autozone shocks
Tires are 325/50R15 Hoosier drag radials and rear is mini tub'd, 4" skinnies up front.
Not sure what the weight is but I've removed AC, PS, heat, HVAC box, front sway bar, rear seats, airbags, ABS block, spare tire and jack, radio and speakers, and more but pretty much anything I dont need. Then have some lightweight mods like the bumper supports, 5lb aluminum steering column and manual steering rack, lost weight from the mini tubs, stuff like that. My biggest problem is the 5 to 6k ft DA.
But hopefully I can launch like yours can. Bad *** ride man you have something to seriously brag about. And thanks again for all the info
For suspension I have a full Midwest Chassis front including chromoly spindles and drag brakes, chromoly front and rear bumper supports, and full rear suspension. Torque arm is tunnel mount, and no rubber or poly bushings on anything its all solid ends (except for rear sway bar). Viking double adjustable socks up front with 300# springs and welded in Wolfe 2.5" adjustable spring mounts in rear with 150# 2.5"x 12" springs and autozone shocks
Tires are 325/50R15 Hoosier drag radials and rear is mini tub'd, 4" skinnies up front.
Not sure what the weight is but I've removed AC, PS, heat, HVAC box, front sway bar, rear seats, airbags, ABS block, spare tire and jack, radio and speakers, and more but pretty much anything I dont need. Then have some lightweight mods like the bumper supports, 5lb aluminum steering column and manual steering rack, lost weight from the mini tubs, stuff like that. My biggest problem is the 5 to 6k ft DA.
But hopefully I can launch like yours can. Bad *** ride man you have something to seriously brag about. And thanks again for all the info
03-04-2015, 12:04 PM
#13
The FAST is ported, and I matched it as perfectly as possible to the heads. I really like how the 102 is made where u can disassemble everything. It made doing the port work pretty sweet.
03-04-2015, 12:31 PM
#14
Damn launching over 6k with a mostly stock T-56! Thats great. Mine is about the same as yours so hopefully I'll have good luck. Thanks for the info. Also thanks for catching my typo, its supposed to be estimated 3,300lb race weight.
For suspension I have a full Midwest Chassis front including chromoly spindles and drag brakes, chromoly front and rear bumper supports, and full rear suspension. Torque arm is tunnel mount, and no rubber or poly bushings on anything its all solid ends (except for rear sway bar). Viking double adjustable socks up front with 300# springs and welded in Wolfe 2.5" adjustable spring mounts in rear with 150# 2.5"x 12" springs and autozone shocks
Tires are 325/50R15 Hoosier drag radials and rear is mini tub'd, 4" skinnies up front.
Not sure what the weight is but I've removed AC, PS, heat, HVAC box, front sway bar, rear seats, airbags, ABS block, spare tire and jack, radio and speakers, and more but pretty much anything I dont need. Then have some lightweight mods like the bumper supports, 5lb aluminum steering column and manual steering rack, lost weight from the mini tubs, stuff like that. My biggest problem is the 5 to 6k ft DA.
But hopefully I can launch like yours can. Bad *** ride man you have something to seriously brag about. And thanks again for all the info
For suspension I have a full Midwest Chassis front including chromoly spindles and drag brakes, chromoly front and rear bumper supports, and full rear suspension. Torque arm is tunnel mount, and no rubber or poly bushings on anything its all solid ends (except for rear sway bar). Viking double adjustable socks up front with 300# springs and welded in Wolfe 2.5" adjustable spring mounts in rear with 150# 2.5"x 12" springs and autozone shocks
Tires are 325/50R15 Hoosier drag radials and rear is mini tub'd, 4" skinnies up front.
Not sure what the weight is but I've removed AC, PS, heat, HVAC box, front sway bar, rear seats, airbags, ABS block, spare tire and jack, radio and speakers, and more but pretty much anything I dont need. Then have some lightweight mods like the bumper supports, 5lb aluminum steering column and manual steering rack, lost weight from the mini tubs, stuff like that. My biggest problem is the 5 to 6k ft DA.
But hopefully I can launch like yours can. Bad *** ride man you have something to seriously brag about. And thanks again for all the info
That DA does suck man! Where I live (western ky) we never get any really good air like some places, or at least it would be rare enough it's happened on days I haven't went to the track.
You've got a lot of good parts and way more weight reduction than I do, I'd say your being conservative on ur 3300 raceweight. But lol yeah I was like WTH about the 4300, knew it surely had to be a typo.
I'm not familiar with the Hoosier drag radial. The only DR I've ran on my car was Nittos. They wouldn't even have a chance of hooking with this setup. I still run them as my street tires but never at the track. They are the least sticky of all the drag radials however. Maybe you'll get some good results with them, but a bias ply true slick or at least an et street or quick time pro is usually what it takes to be able to leave really hard in a manual car.
Good luck tho man! Your cars a sweet ride as well, I really like the paint! Let me know how u do and check out my reply in your build thread if you haven't already seen it.
hoping for 9s with cam only and nitrous! Stock t56 isn't happy.