smokinnjoe

I sanded down a couple spots in my polyurethane bumpers a last year. I didn't paint them right away (big mistake) and the sun has eaten/shrunk the polyurethane that was showing. Now that I primed them you can see a 1/16 inch deep indent where the spot was sanded. I tried polyurethane repair glue on one of the spots and it just made a mess. Can I use bondo to fair these with? If not what do you use to fair a polyurethane bumper? The glue/repair kit is way to gooey to fair with.

VinR1

iTrader: (17)

regular Bondo - NO. Poly is meant to flex and regular bondo isnt


look for Bondo brand 'black flex bumper repair' or 'bumper repair syringe' ...both are a 2-part epoxy that dries really fast and is flexible

smokinnjoe

Thanks for the reply VinR1, I tried the two part but it stuck to the knife as much as the bumper and was very gooey. It was basically impossible to fair smoothly. Do you have any suggestions on an application tool I could you to apply it smoothly?

VinR1

iTrader: (17)

try different ratios of the two parts... I believe if you back off on the hardener, it'll be gooey but wont dry as quickly... and thicker if you add a little more. At the body shop I worked for, we always used pieces of thin cardboard to apply.

bdyman

polyurathene has memory meaning that if heat is applied it takes shape, may have to use a dolly to start shaping but polyurathene is one of the easiest plastics to work with

it does not need adheshion promoter as the other plastic like TEO/TPO/TPE/PP are all thermo-set offlien plastic and need adheshion promoter

everyone has there own products to use and i have used them all, what he is talking must be a 2 part product that is mixed together using a bondo spreader, i have used that stuff and dont like it one bit

in my professional opinion fusor is some of the best OEM repair products in the field, and for what you want to do after you try the heat and re shape the plastic, fusor has a finish glaze made for plastic dries real fast but its some good stuff

plastic when in the right hands is easy to work with can be shaped, cann be grinded on to be re shpaed, so when working with plastic and you have repair material on, start with 80-120-180-240 plastic swells, so if its not finished in 240 or sometimes finer you will see the plastic is still swollen and needs to be finished in 240

most primers today are flexable to a point so there is no need to flexable primer any more, in PPG DBC system we use ncp 271 well anyone in the field knows about that primer, well to help it stick better to plastic a adheshion promoter has to be applied like dx 801, then prime

its not hard its time consuming, takes allot of experience to work and know plastic
here is a pic of my bumper i made using a grand am pocket, now both plastic are TPO so i plastic welded, both sides, used fusor extreme repair material on both sides, then finished glaze,

but i shaped allot using the plastic welder, and the plastic that was there

bdyman

here is a pic of my bumper on my car, like i said when in knowledgeable hands plastic is great to work with