wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Pulled all the calipers off for refinish and te entire system has run dry. I bled the calipers 4 times and the brakes still stop like crap hich means there is still air in them. I used a mighty vac BTW.

Do I need a scan tool?

After searching, I am getting very mixed signals on whether or not you have to bleed the ABS module. I know mine has at least one maybe two bleeder screws.

Someone please describe how to bleed bone 1995 Camaro brakes with ABS.
Thanks

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

If I were to guess, I suspect you need to bench bleed the master cylinder.

On a side note ...

Guys, you really need to think about what you are doing when jacking with the brakes. The system that actually stops teh car is not something to dick with if you really don't know what you are doing.

Something as simple as a using the old crush washers and a bolt through the banjo fitting and a nut on the back side will typically seal off the system so you don't have to go through this kind of BS.

tording99Z28

iTrader: (3)

I thought the LT1 4th Gens had a bleeder screw on the ABS modulator? The LS1 cars do not but pretty sure the LT1 cars do. Take a look and see.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

Good idea, OR tie the lines up so gravity won't let it all leak out. OR keep the MC topped off so it doesn't run dry. BONUS you flush the system like this.

ss346ci

The ABS module shouldn't need to be bled on an LS1 car unless the abs was activated by the car during the last cycle. (read: last time you drove it) If you need to bleed it drive the car around the block and make sure the abs doesn't activate then bleed the entire system from furthest wheel to closest to the master cyl. Unless you activated the abs before you let the system go dry the fluid shouldn't have left the abs module. How long was the system dry?

JDL_Z28

There should be 2 bleeder screws on the abs module, bleed the back one first, then the front one. After that, bleed the system as you normally would working from the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder to the closest. Then bleed the abs module again starting with the front bleeder, then the back bleeder. Then you can either use a scanner to cycle the abs valves to free any air bubbles, or if you dont have a scanner you can turn the key on for around 10 seconds or so then turn it off and repeat that around 5 times. Turning the key on and off like that supposedly cycles the abs. Then you are supposed to re-bleed the whole system. Repeat this process until the abs light no longer turns on. Thats what the actual gm repair manuals say to do anyway. It's been a while since I've done this and I don't have the manual in front of me so I might be slightly off. This was for a 94 too, so I don't know if they changed anything for a 95. Hope this helps

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I did the bolt and washer trick to plug the hose, but fluid ran down through the threads through the nut. I even tried a glob of sealant on the end and the system ran dry anyway. Next time I will find a better way of sealing the end of the hose.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Thanks.
I will try this.

Nightrydass

yea the same bs happened to me when i did my brakes. I did the backs perfectly fine; the car stopped on a dime and gave you back change. However, when i did the fronts, i let the reservoir run dry by accident (i used the POS solo bleeders and the damn things wouldn't seal) and i got air in my ABS. I tried to bleed them 4 times, my dad (who used to do this **** when he was my age) bled them 4 times, and we still couldn't get the airr out. I had to get the ******* car towed b/c i didn't have a scan tool (didn't kno i needed one) to cycle the ABS.

Irt is funny; i had the mechanic look over the work i already did and he said everything was tight and proper; it was the damn air in the ABS module that fucked me up.

95z28ltt1

Hate to ressurect dead threads but did that fix your abs inop light?