BryanD

the water pump outlet and heater hose fittings "appear" to be stainless and pressed into the aluminum water pumps. i need all three of these fittings to go in different directions than stock. has anyone modified these before? can you heat the housing up and turn the the outlet fitting?

i guess my only other option is to cut them off and weld aluminum fittings to the housing.

jfg455

iTrader: (5)

The heater hoses we just remove the insert and tap for 3/8 npt and 1/2 npt. That way we can use a 90 degree fitting on them. The upper you may need to weld something on. Once it is moved it may never lock in as tight as before.

rojs234

iTrader: (5)

You can buy heater hoses with molded 90* turns at O'reillys Auto Parts and probably others, that you can install turned however you want for the heater outlets. You can buy the lower radiator hose outlet,(thermostat housing), from Street & Performance. They come in various configurations and angles. Sorry, I re-read your post and saw you were talking about the upper waterpump hose. You can also buy molded hoses with sharp bends to change direction on these.

BryanD

thanks guys, those are good ideas. this application is VERY TIGHT, i don't think the molded hoses are even tight enough. i did think about removing the heater hose fittings and tapping like suggested, but is there enough room to thread in 90 degree fittings? those fittings are pretty close together.

i will be droppin' the coin for the "street & performance" swivel thermostat housing. that seems to be the only vendor for a swivel housing. i gotta get this stuff together by tommarow for welding.

i think i'm going to get a piece of 1-1/2 aluminum tube and weld it on in the direction i need for the outlet. i'm running a rear radiator, so it maybe helpful to incorporate an air bleed fitting into as well to get all the coolant in with out an air lock.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

First of, yes, you can get 2 90 degree elbows on the heater hose. I've removed the old ones and tapped them. I bought the 90s from Summit.
I bought the CSR strait inlet for the bottom hose.
You have 4 options for the top inlet.

Forward passenger side (F body)
Upward (truck)
Forward, drivers side (LS9)
About 30 degrees up and sideways, pasenger side (new escalade)

The upper fiting and hole are odd size to tap. If you go that route, you'll have to redrill it after removing the fitting.

poconojoe

iTrader: (43)

You could always put straight AN or SAE fittings in it and use 90 degree metal hose fittings

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

the C3 corvette guys have to take those fittings out altogether and plug them and then tap the water pump up higher. There are a lot of people who have done it in this thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-their-c3.html

I know- its a HUGE thread, but you should be able to scroll thru the first few pages pretty quickly till you find pics of the water pump.

Nashty

iTrader: (7)

I'm removing the heater hoses and moving them to the bottom to hide them, just to clean it all up. For the lower hose neck, you can just cut it off at the flange and clock it correctly then reweld it, that's what I'm doing.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

With the way the Water Pump is shaped internally, do you have that much room to move them Heater Hose Fittings around..?

BryanD

here is what i ended up doing.

the outlet points back because my vehicle has a rear mounted radiator. i guess i could have went with the threaded 90 degree fittings for the heater hoses, but my buddy was already welding the outlet on, so i picked up some clampless type aluminum fittings (stripped the anodizing) and him weld them on for a clean look. this is in a tube chassis rock crawler, so all of this stuff is highly visable all the time.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

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