Nsty98LS1

iTrader: (11)

i'm just curious who has made it with a setup similar to me. i'm finally getting to go to the track on Saturdayand wondering what to expect. my car is a 98 Z28 full bolt ons, ssf3500, 3.73's, TSP 233/239, TSP tune and my race weight will be around 3600 lbs. best run last year with just a lid, catback and converter was a 12.93 @105 on street tires with a 1.759 60'. do i have a good shot at making it in here.

eric01ss

iTrader: (13)

i would say u do if not just do the normal weight reduction mods and u should be there and good luck

98CamZ28

iTrader: (31)

Should be pretty close, get that 60 ft down a little more with some sticky tires and then hope that rear holds up

black02-z28

iTrader: (8)

Might need a little suspension work. Lots of A4's do 11's without the cam. Or are you including the suspension stuff in the full bolt ons?

Nsty98LS1

iTrader: (11)

suspension is all stock. believe it or not i have no wheel hop issues or anything like that. i feel that it works great imo and really see no reason to mess with it and possibly screw it all up and have the car never hook right. only thing really done is i took the front swaybar and its brackets off.

black02-z28

iTrader: (8)

1.79 is not all that great. You'll need to get it down in the 1.5x range. Get some tires, then do the suspension. No chance of making it worse. Reloc brackets are a good start, then add on some good lower control arms. Horse power is good, but you gotta get the 60 ft down.

Ed

Nsty98LS1

iTrader: (11)

i'm not trying to be a dick about this, but a 1.75 60' on a 12.93 pass on street tires "is not all that great"? since when? i do have DR's that i run rarely, but i don't see why i need suspension work since it does hook. the only time the car has ever wheelhopped was when i tore the posi out of it. what do these reloc. brackets do that you say is a good start and if i do anything with lower control arms i may box mine and put polyurethane bushings in it. will that work? does the stock torque arm need to go to? my biggest concern with it is getting it off of the tailshaft. what shocks and springs or even coilovers would i want to look at? how about the panhard rod? is the stock one ok? there's a lot involved here: money, parts,and time with suspension and how much of a difference will it make in the car? what kind of et reduction would i be looking at? like i said i'm not trying to be a dick about it or anything, just now i'm looking for answers.

black02-z28

iTrader: (8)

I understand where you are coming from, no sweat.

I was just giving my opinion, which my be different than everyone else

So here is my thoughts:

- If you ran the 12.93 stock internal on a 1.75 that is OK, but not that great. Drag racing is an acceleration test. One of the key indicators is your 60 foot time. I have never focused on ET, I knew if I got the 60 down it would fall in place. Every tenth on the 60 translates to at least 2 tenths on the ET, so if you get the 60 down in the 1.5x range your 12.93 would be at least 12.5, if not better. Wheelp hop is not what I am concerned with, I want to see the 60 drop.
- Your stock suspension might have been OK for a 1.75, but to do better than low 1.6's you are better with upgrades.
- The cam should really help your MPH. 105 is not that good either, if all stays the same I doubt you'll see 11's saturday. If you can hook it and get the 60 better you might see real low 12's.

- Boxing your LCA's might work OK, I've never heard of anyone doing it, BMR's are pretty cheap. The stock Torque arm can handle well into the 11's, I know of cars in the 10's on one. The reloc brackets change the length of the lever on your rear end and will help it bite better. Guys have gained .1 in the 60'd from them and they are cheap. QA1 shocks and front drag springs allow your weight to transfer to the rear faster and also increase traction and bite. They are not cheap though.

- I understand that building a fast car is not cheap, I am right there with you, doing it on a limited budget. Every car part I buy takes something away from my family. I would say doing your suspension will cost around $1000 and be good for .5 - .7.

-My car dyno'd 346, I don't have all the bolt ons, it ran 11.73 with all the seats in, but that was in great air. Right now I run 11.9x with a 1.53 60.

Good luck!

chrismcdaniel

iTrader: (14)

i went 12.2 @ 110 mph with the 239 cam, stock 323 gears, headers, 2.5 duals and a ssf 3500 stall.. good luck

black02-z28

iTrader: (8)

You ever try out that setup? I guess if it hit 11's we might've heard by now?

Let us know.

Ed

Nsty98LS1

iTrader: (11)

sorry i never responded about what i ran. i actually forgot about this post. i'll start by saying track conditions were horrible, no track prep at all, it was about 90 degrees with about 90% humidity. second, i was stubborn and had to try on my street tires instead of my DRs. i still managed to run 12.51 at 114.73 mph with a 2.0 60'. i was happy with the speed though. we're going to rent another track in late august and try again, this time on the DRs. if i can get my 60' down to 1.7's like they were last year, the car should go high 11's.

NXZ28

iTrader: (45)

I have almost the same mods as you, see sig, and I went 11.90@115. That was with drag radials and I had to launch at 1400 rpm. Cut a 1.72 60' on a stock suspension. I did disconnect the front sway bar though. I did run a string of 12.03s and then I put on the shorty belt to bypass the power steering. I have a stock crank pulley so I used a 56" belt. Good luck.

Caribe

iTrader: (1)

Times in sig.

01 B4C

iTrader: (3)

Times and video below..

Violatorno1

iTrader: (3)

WOW!!!! Holy sh*t, someone on LS1tech from my area. I had the Red T/A at Beaver for the track rental on the 4th of June. I take it you were the White Z. You should have no problem hitting 11's with that setup plus suspension mods. I have the Spohn torque arm that mounts on the chassis where the G-load brace goes. Seems to work well but not with street tires. I believe my 60 dropping from 2.23 to 2.0's came from the 4.11 gears. I have a set of BMR relocation brackets to fit the stock 10 bolt. I can't use them on the Moser. They don't fit. What tune are you using? I'm still on stock tune with bolt ons and have been considering a mail order now that I installed the LS6 intake. I want to get as far down in the 12's as I can full weight before a cam swap though.

Captain InsaneO

iTrader: (38)

Times and mods in sig. My car weighs 3600lbs.

Nsty98LS1

iTrader: (11)

i'm bringing this one back from the dead. went to the tracklast friday and best i got was a 12.38. it was real hot and humid that day. i'm gonna go back in september with a few tweaks and some suspension work and run in good (hopefully) air. i'm pretty determined to go 11s on this setup.

Mr_president

iTrader: (38)

dont feel bad i have all this and i went 12.4 with mt et streets burn out were to short , i launch at 5500 rpms.... need a new drive shaft should be here tomorow and im back to the track for 11s