1st Gen Datsun Z car LSx Swap In-Progress
07-29-2009, 12:35 PM
#1
1st Gen Datsun Z car LSx Swap In-Progress In August of 2008 I sold 'BBZ' (Big Block Chevrolet 454 powered Datsun Z car) to a HybridZ member and I have been without a Z car ever since. I vowed to buy another S30.
Last month I picked up a 1975 Datsun 280z in trade for a rifle I had collecting dust. The car bone stock except for a set of aluminum vintage Enkei 14" wheels (they look just like old school 2-piece Centerlines). Soon after I got it home I pulled the factory motor and trans and sold them.
The original plan was to yank the low mileage 5.3 LSx (from a 2004 Escalade) and 4L60e (from a 2004 GTO) from my '69 Chevy C10 and transplant them into my newest Z. The EFI combo is already to go since it was modified for stand-alone operation.
This car is nicknamed LSZ.
As fate would have it I ended up scoring a 2005 LQ4 6.0 that needs some attention, but otherwise a better platform to start with since it has the LS2 full-floating rods, coated piston skirts, etc.
While the motor is on the engine stand I planned on swapping out the stock cam in favor of a LS1 Hot cam. However after some issues I ended up buying a Lunati Voodoo 60511 cam instead (.567/.567", 222/228 dur@0.050", 113 LSA) online for $295. After tuning the Voodoo cam should provide a reasonable power increase. Ultimately the car will have a 100-150 HP wetshot of nitrous.
LSZ itself has received a few personal touches as well. First I ditched the huge and heavy 5 mph bumpers (155 lbs total). Next the old carpet and insulation got removed, floors cleaned and then covered with POR-15 paint.
Just like BBZ, LSZ's body will be shaved of all chrome side trim, marker lights, emblems, antenna hole, etc. Although I might add a GM emblem 'LSx' to the fenders or hood after paint in the distant future. Also is the return of BBZ's 4" cowl hood. BBZ's owner didn't care for it, so I bought it back. The cowl hood will allow me to keep the truck intake (for the time being) and still close the hood.
BBZ was more toward a race type interior down to no carpet, coverless racing shifter, no A/C or heater, and Auto Meter Sport-Comp gauges throughout. This time I'll still use Auto Meter Sport-Comp gauges, but carpet and nicer aftermarket shifter and stereo will be used along with all the creature comforts as if the car was going to used as a daily-driver.
I already have the same rims/tire combo as before, Sportmax 16x8 rims with 245/50/16 tires on all 4 corners.
Right now the body work is being done since I am waiting for other swap parts anyway. Due to alot of damage to the tail light and roll pan areas, they are all being cut out and replaced with new sheet metal. I am also going to build my own custom tail light setup, just to be different. The engine compartment has already been stripped and painted flat black. Soon the whole car will be wearing new paint.
Then of course as time passes and funds allow, LSZ will receive many of the same upgrades that BBZ had like a Q45 R200 diff and CV's, with custom built Moser axles, adjustable coilover suspension, larger slotted/crossdrilled rotors, 4 piston calipers, and of course the paint and A/C.
Questions/comments?
Thanks for reading guys!!
EDIT: Sorry for the crappy pics (taken with my phone)
Last month I picked up a 1975 Datsun 280z in trade for a rifle I had collecting dust. The car bone stock except for a set of aluminum vintage Enkei 14" wheels (they look just like old school 2-piece Centerlines). Soon after I got it home I pulled the factory motor and trans and sold them.
The original plan was to yank the low mileage 5.3 LSx (from a 2004 Escalade) and 4L60e (from a 2004 GTO) from my '69 Chevy C10 and transplant them into my newest Z. The EFI combo is already to go since it was modified for stand-alone operation.
This car is nicknamed LSZ.
As fate would have it I ended up scoring a 2005 LQ4 6.0 that needs some attention, but otherwise a better platform to start with since it has the LS2 full-floating rods, coated piston skirts, etc.
While the motor is on the engine stand I planned on swapping out the stock cam in favor of a LS1 Hot cam. However after some issues I ended up buying a Lunati Voodoo 60511 cam instead (.567/.567", 222/228 dur@0.050", 113 LSA) online for $295. After tuning the Voodoo cam should provide a reasonable power increase. Ultimately the car will have a 100-150 HP wetshot of nitrous.
LSZ itself has received a few personal touches as well. First I ditched the huge and heavy 5 mph bumpers (155 lbs total). Next the old carpet and insulation got removed, floors cleaned and then covered with POR-15 paint.
Just like BBZ, LSZ's body will be shaved of all chrome side trim, marker lights, emblems, antenna hole, etc. Although I might add a GM emblem 'LSx' to the fenders or hood after paint in the distant future. Also is the return of BBZ's 4" cowl hood. BBZ's owner didn't care for it, so I bought it back. The cowl hood will allow me to keep the truck intake (for the time being) and still close the hood.
BBZ was more toward a race type interior down to no carpet, coverless racing shifter, no A/C or heater, and Auto Meter Sport-Comp gauges throughout. This time I'll still use Auto Meter Sport-Comp gauges, but carpet and nicer aftermarket shifter and stereo will be used along with all the creature comforts as if the car was going to used as a daily-driver.
I already have the same rims/tire combo as before, Sportmax 16x8 rims with 245/50/16 tires on all 4 corners.
Right now the body work is being done since I am waiting for other swap parts anyway. Due to alot of damage to the tail light and roll pan areas, they are all being cut out and replaced with new sheet metal. I am also going to build my own custom tail light setup, just to be different. The engine compartment has already been stripped and painted flat black. Soon the whole car will be wearing new paint.
Then of course as time passes and funds allow, LSZ will receive many of the same upgrades that BBZ had like a Q45 R200 diff and CV's, with custom built Moser axles, adjustable coilover suspension, larger slotted/crossdrilled rotors, 4 piston calipers, and of course the paint and A/C.
Questions/comments?
Thanks for reading guys!!
EDIT: Sorry for the crappy pics (taken with my phone)
Last edited by Ford_Assassin; 08-22-2009 at 02:21 AM.
07-29-2009, 08:04 PM
#4
I have a 75 280z that I started putting a 87 grand national buick setup in.Its mounted in the car,now I wish I had gone the ls route.Still might if someone wants to buy the buick setup.I have looked at all the rear differential options and I think I would would rather scrap the irs stuff and build a four link with a shortend 8.8 rear or somthing like that.I know it would be stronger and probably cheaper.You would eliminate a lot of problems and expensive irs parts.Might be more work but I think the end result would be worth it.
07-29-2009, 08:55 PM
#6
Escalades had LQ9's and ALL LQ4's after 2004 have full floating rods.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11526416-post10.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11526416-post10.html
07-29-2009, 09:10 PM
#7
I have looked at all the rear differential options and I think I would would rather scrap the irs stuff and build a four link with a shortend 8.8 rear or somthing like that.I know it would be stronger and probably cheaper.You would eliminate a lot of problems and expensive irs parts.Might be more work but I think the end result would be worth it.
If your 280z is a stick you already have the long nose R200. They live in the 10's all day. If you swap to a short nose R230, they live at least into the high 8's and I yet to ever hear of one breaking...ever. The weakest link in the stock IRS setup is the stub axles, which even that is a rare event when they break, especially the 280z units. I've never broken one even with the brute torque of a BBC 454 pushing on them with slicks. But even stub axles are available in billet steel now.
A R230 setup including custom Moser axles and all mounting hardware can be had for less than $1000.
I have no idea to what you mean by what 'problems' you would eliminate with a solid axle. My last Z left straight as an arrow, no right rear squat, etc.
The only advantage I could see with a solid axle 4 link setup is pinion adjustablity.
Just my 2 cents.
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07-30-2009, 08:40 AM
#8
Unless you are fabbing everything yourself there is no way anything other than a factory style IRS is going to be cheaper, period.
If your 280z is a stick you already have the long nose R200. They live in the 10's all day. If you swap to a short nose R230, they live at least into the high 8's and I yet to ever hear of one breaking...ever. The weakest link in the stock IRS setup is the stub axles, which even that is a rare event when they break, especially the 280z units. I've never broken one even with the brute torque of a BBC 454 pushing on them with slicks. But even stub axles are available in billet steel now.
A R230 setup including custom Moser axles and all mounting hardware can be had for less than $1000.
I have no idea to what you mean by what 'problems' you would eliminate with a solid axle. My last Z left straight as an arrow, no right rear squat, etc.
The only advantage I could see with a solid axle 4 link setup is pinion adjustablity.
Just my 2 cents.
If your 280z is a stick you already have the long nose R200. They live in the 10's all day. If you swap to a short nose R230, they live at least into the high 8's and I yet to ever hear of one breaking...ever. The weakest link in the stock IRS setup is the stub axles, which even that is a rare event when they break, especially the 280z units. I've never broken one even with the brute torque of a BBC 454 pushing on them with slicks. But even stub axles are available in billet steel now.
A R230 setup including custom Moser axles and all mounting hardware can be had for less than $1000.
I have no idea to what you mean by what 'problems' you would eliminate with a solid axle. My last Z left straight as an arrow, no right rear squat, etc.
The only advantage I could see with a solid axle 4 link setup is pinion adjustablity.
Just my 2 cents.
07-30-2009, 08:45 AM
#9
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/ca...4ff0b03c06e9a2
Also www.hybridz.org is a great resource for many questions.
08-25-2009, 11:03 PM
#13
09-09-2009, 09:33 AM
#15
It Lives!!! Got it started up on Saturday, 40 psi at idle, very responsive even with the Voodoo 60511 cam.
Anyway, I didn't like how the stock DBW pedal was going to work in the car so I cut off most of the DBW pedal arm, cut up the stock Datsun gas pedal arm, and welded everything back together. I also welded on a plate that allows me to bolt the DBW assembly to the firewall using the original 3 bolt holes that held the stock Datsun pedal to the firewall. Although the pics don't show it, I drilled the three holes using the stock plate as a template and it bolted right up, no problems, and looks stock unless you are on your back looking up the dash.
I also decided to save some coin and build my own cold air intake with some parts from truck LSx swap and a few hardware store pieces.
I am trying to get everything back together before Friday's local cruise night, not sure if I'll make it, but I'm doing my best.
So, what do you guys think?
Anyway, I didn't like how the stock DBW pedal was going to work in the car so I cut off most of the DBW pedal arm, cut up the stock Datsun gas pedal arm, and welded everything back together. I also welded on a plate that allows me to bolt the DBW assembly to the firewall using the original 3 bolt holes that held the stock Datsun pedal to the firewall. Although the pics don't show it, I drilled the three holes using the stock plate as a template and it bolted right up, no problems, and looks stock unless you are on your back looking up the dash.
I also decided to save some coin and build my own cold air intake with some parts from truck LSx swap and a few hardware store pieces.
I am trying to get everything back together before Friday's local cruise night, not sure if I'll make it, but I'm doing my best.
So, what do you guys think?
09-09-2009, 12:28 PM
#16
you will have to let us know how you like that cam in a zed. I am considering the same cam for mine. did you upgrade the springs with the cam? Which ones did you go with?
09-09-2009, 03:36 PM
#17
I went with Z06 'Yellow' spring since they are rated to .580" lift and can be used with the LS1 Hot Cam which has about the same duration as the 60511. I reused the stock LQ4 retainers and locks. I bought new 7.400" Comp Magnum pushrods for good piece of mind over the stock LQ4 pieces.
10-02-2009, 06:49 PM
#19
Alright, the car runs and drives for 2 weeks now and no major problems so far. Cam is alittle lopey, but that's cool because I like that sound. The car is a bit loud for my taste so I might add two Dynomax bullet mufflers under the car in the near future.
The power and torque is available EVERYWHERE. Doesn't matter what RPM or speed, it wants to move.
Traction is a serious issue. I thought I had traction issues with BBZ, this car is straight scary at times. Even if I slowly roll into the throttle it will still blow the tires away up until 50+ mph. This is with 245/50/16 tires btw.
The power and torque is available EVERYWHERE. Doesn't matter what RPM or speed, it wants to move.
Traction is a serious issue. I thought I had traction issues with BBZ, this car is straight scary at times. Even if I slowly roll into the throttle it will still blow the tires away up until 50+ mph. This is with 245/50/16 tires btw.
Last edited by Ford_Assassin; 10-02-2009 at 06:58 PM.
10-03-2009, 10:27 AM
#20
Too cool. gotta love it. I want that voodoo cam in part because a couple of guys claim it is one of the best sounding cams at idle that they have ever heard.
What rear gear ratio are you running?
I took mine out for a dash and tune the other day. Wasn't trying to run anyone, still struggling getting the carb right. Anyway some yuppie in a Saab turbo thought I was trying to play. I nailed it at freeway speed and left the guy so far behind it scared the bejesus out of me. He did the loser flyby when I pulled off the freeeway. I stopped for gas right after and my hands were shaking.
I don't understand how people street race. All I can say is they must not have very fast cars. Even with the tune not right this thing is on the rev limiter in 3rd gear before I know what is happening. I almost wish I had an automatic because it goes through the gears to fast it seems like I spend more time shifting than in gear. Almost.
I can only imagine what yours does with the bigger cam. Everyone says that cam is not so big that you miss any low end grunt.
Keep us posted.
What rear gear ratio are you running?
I took mine out for a dash and tune the other day. Wasn't trying to run anyone, still struggling getting the carb right. Anyway some yuppie in a Saab turbo thought I was trying to play. I nailed it at freeway speed and left the guy so far behind it scared the bejesus out of me. He did the loser flyby when I pulled off the freeeway. I stopped for gas right after and my hands were shaking.
I don't understand how people street race. All I can say is they must not have very fast cars. Even with the tune not right this thing is on the rev limiter in 3rd gear before I know what is happening. I almost wish I had an automatic because it goes through the gears to fast it seems like I spend more time shifting than in gear. Almost.
I can only imagine what yours does with the bigger cam. Everyone says that cam is not so big that you miss any low end grunt.
Keep us posted.
