SSBrutus02

Well I finally hit the 12's, barely. I ran a 12.93 @ 112.4

Mods are TSP 228r cam, TSP long tube headers and catted ORY, comp cams beehive valve springs .625" I think. Spec stage 2 clutch and pressure plate.

Tires are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S with maybe 30% tread on them. with a set of nice drag radials I could get in the low 12's I'm sure.

Also this run was with the MAP sensor unplugged because I have a tune issue currently and it runs better with the MAP unplugged for some reason

Mappinsj

I bet your 60' sucked which means you're faster than 12.9

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

Yea it's got low 12s high 11s in it for sure with that speed

SSBrutus02

my 60' was 2.1, I mean I'm not the best driver but I didn't think that was too bad. its a stick car. wanted to spin like crazy off of the line and jumped sideways a couple of times going into second.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

Get some MT drag radials and be prepared to hook or break lol

SSBrutus02

yea that's what I'm scared of, breaking lol. My tranny should be good but idk about the rear end. I need to look at how much they'll handle stock.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

Not much with a m6 . The shock of dropping the clutch and snatching gears kills em pretty quick

SSBrutus02

What is the weak point?

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

That 7.5 rear is. Some break the ring and pinion some break axels some break differential. Just a matter of time if you beat on it any

SSBrutus02

I guess I ought to look at getting a 9in for it. I don't beat on it much, but it is hard to stay out of it when someone pulls up next to me thinking they got something fast.

Mappinsj

you have SS, axles are weak, but the torsen is the weakest once axles get upgraded.

SSBrutus02

Think it'd be cheaper to just upgrade the 10 bolt? I mean i'll most likely never have over 500 to the ground. its a street car. it needs to be relatively tame

Mappinsj

That's a tough question. 10 bolts are hit and miss. But with a manual you will always be in the hot seat

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

this is a great way to put it , if your going to drag race a modded M6 you should not dump money in a 10 bolt other than maybe to have a spare 10 bolt for a couple hundred bucks to buy you some time

SSBrutus02

then my savings account will be dedicated to upgrading to a 9 inch, or a 12 bolt.

Firebirdmuscle

iTrader: (16)

I wouldn't even mess with a 12 bolt. Go ahead and get a 9". There are so many options you can do a 9. Mwc would be the place I'd call.

big hammer

A harder DR like MT or NITTO is really hard on the diff because they won't absorb much energy. A Hoosier DR or slick is actually easier on the diff since they have Soft sidewalls with more torsional effect.

I've cut up to a 1.68 on a stock 10 bolt with just gears and Hoosier DR's

high n dry

iTrader: (18)

Don't do either n get a Strange S60...u'll b much happier!
Trust me on that!

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

As an example may car makes close to 700 rwtq on nitrous and it's a 6-speed with 4.10 gears, drag radials, and stock 10 bolt with a trutrack upgrade. Even with all this the 10 bolt is holding up fine for now, but I think I've been a bit more lucky than most. A lot has to do with how you drive as well

SSBrutus02

wow no ****? I guess I don't have to be as worried as I thought. I mean I'm only making 384rwhp/370rwtq and I was thinking I might be close to breaking it.