WildBills Toyota

iTrader: (1)

installed spec stage 3 and did not do new 01-02 slave cylinder. The car in 3rd gear would not go into gear when racing for a sec then would go in. I then replaced the 00 slave with a new 02 slave and it still freakin does it. When I go to throw the car in 3rd gear at over like 6000 rpm's it hesitates and wont go into gear. WTF, I thought the new slave woudl fix it. I also did the drill mod by the way. Please help me out

Renfro

iTrader: (2)

having the same proble, I'm a little, no really pissed, but maybe its just my sign to leave the car alone and get a bike. But I want to know what it is also, I even have new syncro rings.

ramairbrc

iTrader: (1)

I just bought a 98 TA M6 from the orginal owner about 10 days ago. On the way home it poped out of 3rd gear for no reason. I drove it around a little, about 100 miles in a couple days to get a feel for it, and I noticed that the tranny did not like to go into 3rd - I have to push the shifter to get it in. I just thought it was a crappy orginal shifter with 82K miles, and once I changed it to a Ripper or whatever I'd cure it.

But then took it on the highway. It was just fine, until I went to downshift into 3rd from 6th - what a horrible noise... 3rd gear ground. I pulled it into neutral, pumped the clutch once, and tried it again. You guessed it, a horrible grinding sound! I immediately put it in 4th, no problem, and got on with driving. I was able to put the tranny in 4th and even 2nd (without letting the clutch out), at over 60 mph... but I could not get it into 3rd gear without it grinding. It was almost like I had no syncro's.

So, I'm really interested in fixing this problem...

Thanks.

ramairbrc

iTrader: (1)

No one has advice for the 3rd gear issue? Or has this been "done to death" and we should just look for older posts?

Thanks, Bob

jaberwaki

you where right to look at your hydrolics as the source of your woes....
the prob is caused from swaping a soft stocker clutch for a hard one... it takes more pressure(more fluid) to push it... you will only have probs in wot high rpms ...

3 types of fixes...

1. the drill mod.. this one is a hit or miss but has been known to fix the prob in several cars..(mine is one) it is also the cheapest..(check out www.installuniversity.com for the write up on how)
2. slave shim.... when you got your clutch package it should have come with one..
it is the hardest one to do as it requires removing your slave in order to shim it.. (ask spec about it they might have just forgot to send it)
3. adjustable master ... easy to instal but you have to by one... mcloed makes a good one

hope this helps

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

not going into gear at high rpms- mine did it, i adjusted my clutch pedal. it wasnt completely engaging the clutch. adjust the rod longer. it did this after i rebuilt the tranny. after i lengthend the rod, it works awsome. it has a different clutch, and yea takes more force. so lengthening the rod helped by giving it more pressure. kinda preloading it. theres like a tie rod end under the dash on the pedal, loosen the nut and try about 3/16 of an inch. also try bleeding the clutch. if air is in there it isnt going to engage it 100%

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

the 3rd gear, yea been talked about before. but the aluminum shift fork probably bad. they make a steel replacement. mine did the same thing before i rebuilt it. its pretty cheap, only drawback is you have to dissassemble the whole tranny.

ramairbrc

iTrader: (1)

Since my car is completely stock, it is safe to assume that the adjustment of the rod due to a newer clutch won't be the fix. I should look into rebuilding the tranny, to replace that aluminum shift fork. How often do you guys rebuild your trannies? I read one post where the guy (I assume) said that the 3rd time he pulled his tranny he had it out in 45 minutes! Third time!! Is it worth have a spare T-56 on the work bench so that you can rebuild it in your spare time between swaps?

Thanks for the responses.

Bob

HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

I am not sure but do you think the synchros arent doing their jobs

Z71

Transmission Stuck in Gear

The 1997-2003 Corvette, or 1993-2002 Camaro and Pontiac Firebird equipped with the 6 speed manual transmission may exhibit the following.

Primary Condition
- Unable to shift out of fourth gear.

Other Conditions
- 3-4 upshift -- hard shift, gear clash, or block-out.
- 4-3 downshift -- hard shift, gear clash or block-out.
- 2-3 upshift -- hard shift, gear clash or block-out.
- third gear hop-out
- fourth gear hop-out.

Replace the aluminum 3-4 shift fork with an iron 3-4 shift fork. The part number of the iron shift fork as of July 9, 2003 is 88996653 and is available only through GMSPO.

The 3-4 synchronizer and 3-4 blocking ring should also be replaced at the same time.

- Thanks to Mark Gordon

jaberwaki

wrote this up to help some

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/156608-clutch-prob-post.html

INMY01TA

iTrader: (1)

Your not supposed to be able to downshift from 6th to 3rd at speeds that high. Your asking the tranny to work backwards from the way it was designed. For the synchro's to work properly the input shaft needs to be spinning a certain speed. Think about it. When you shift to 3rd from 2nd gear the rpm's are higher in 2nd then they will be when you get into 3rd. Trying to go from 6th the rpms are much lower than they will be in 2nd. Especially considering the fact you're shifting into neutral and pumping the clutch (which will do you no good). The input shaft is practically not moving at all and your wondering why your synchros aren't working? You need to either rev-match the rpms while shifting or shift from 4th then to 3rd at the highway speeds. Get the car goin like 75mph and try shifting from 4th into 3rd, betcha it goes right in. It doesn't matter if you can put it in 2nd at this speed or that speed, your not supposed to.

jaberwaki

first off your gears do have a mph at which they max out...
like you cant go into 2nd at 100 mph...

but if you are trying to downshift to third from 6th then you need to blip the gas(called rev matching above ) in order to keep from shocking your drive train .. like it sounds like your doing...

ramairbrc

iTrader: (1)

I guess it is hard to explain all that is happening. But the short of it is, if I've been traveling over 70 and then have to slow down for traffic, when I try to put the car in 3rd gear (now going much slower than 70) I get this horrible grinding noise. I'm not trying to put the car in 3rd gear at 100 mph. BUT, if I were, it should still go! The last 98 Trans Am I had never had any of the gear selection problems I've read about on this forum. Of course the slave cylinder died in my driveway, covering it with brake fluid and requireing that the car be towed to a mechanic because I didn't have the time during the week to fix it. I sold the car with about 68,000 miles - I could put the trans in any geat at 90+ mph, and it would go right in... no problem. Now, I didn't release the clutch at that speed unless I was in 6th or 5th, but you should be able to select all forward gears while the car is moving forward.

Your bet... you lost. I can not select 3rd gear from 4th gear at any speed over 50 mph without horrible grinding noise. I can go 6th to 5th, 5th to 4th, and 4th to 2nd, even 6th directly to 1st. But 6th to 3rd, 5th to 3rd, and 4th to 3rd: all the same problem.

But, I saw the GM tech post, and I guess I try that. Replace fork, blocking ring and synchros, and while I'm in there: the slave cylinder, clutch and flywheel. That should cost at least $1000.

Thanks General Motors

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

I *love* dumping my clutch in to 3rd gear at 70 MPH on the highway.

It puts me at about 5800 RPM, I straighten out and she pulls to 7400, and then bang 4th.

Hell yeah, you can do it. Just gotta rev it up and it'll go. Oh, but not on a stock motor.

I'll do 2nd at 50, but that one just isn't as fun.

ramairbrc

iTrader: (1)

So any guess on what the problem is? Or should I just roll the dice, and have the clutch replaced, hydralics replaced, and the trans rebuilt and hope that somewhere in that $2000 mess I've solved the problem?

INMY01TA

iTrader: (1)

Prolly cost more than that. A COMPLETE tranny rebuild be more like $1500. A good clutch like Mcleod or Ram vds is like $800 plus install. I had mine rebuilt once under warranty shortly after I bought the car 2 and a half years ago and never had any problems since. I got the Mcleod single disk kevlar clutch with the adj. master and steel flywheel. Never any chatter at all and shifts smooth at 6,500 rpms.

02 WS-6

iTrader: (1)

a better replacement than the Iron 3-4 shift fork would be a a steel one, viper put a steel 3-4 shift fork in their cars, and it works great, the transmissions are the same internally, just did mine worked out fine...

onyxxtreme

iTrader: (4)

my car wouldnt go into any gear AT ALL, at higher rpm's, or WOT. It would grind like hell when I tried to do that also. Sometimes the clutch would even slip at light throttle.
I went on here trying to figure it out, everyone said it was the hydro's or t56 internals
guess what it was?
damn pilot bearing. The POS exploded, I guess you can call it. Messed up my input shaft pretty bad.
I found this out when I pulled the motor out (left the trans in the car). When I pulled the clutch off the motor, the remainder of the bearing hit the ground. All that was left was a small piece of the metal sleeve, all chewed up.

ramairbrc

iTrader: (1)

I'll bet that wasn't a good sound... hearing something hit the ground unexpectantly!!