mile_high51

iTrader: (5)

I have a line out converter wired into where my sail panel subs were (I wanted to keep the factory deck).

I've already blown one sub, and my amp manufacturer is telling me this is likely because of have the input sensitivity on the amp set wrong.

Anyone know how much mv I'd be running through the converter, rcas, and on into the amp from the sail panel speakers??????

I want to be able to match it up correctly. I have the sensitivity set real low currently, but my sub is pretty quite. I'm just afraid to turn it up because I don't want to send to be sending the wrong signals into it.

For reference I have a Kenwood KAC 8104d amp and Kenwood KFC W2512 sub.

Thanks in advance for any help guys.

mile_high51

iTrader: (5)

nothing?

dragonrage

All that means is that you ran too much power. Or you had some major clipping going on that made the ventilation of the speaker much worse.

What kind of box is that sub in?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

That amp has speaker level input. Why not use that and just set the sensitivity to the upper end of the 40W-15W band marked on the sensitivity control? Eliminating the external LOC will probably result in better sound quality as well.

mile_high51

iTrader: (5)

You think so? I was contemplating that but I was just planning for down the road of I get an amp without the speaker level. That's kind of dumb because I suppose I'll have an aftermarket deck by than.

The sensitivity control is marked 5 to 0.2 V. How does that translate to watts?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

If you look at the sensitivity control, you will see a band marked between about 1:30 to 3:00 on a clock face. The upper edge of that band represents 40W and the lower edge 15W. Set the selector to someplace close to the upper end (the 40W end of the band) if you get your signal from the speaker wires. If you get signal from the Monsoon amp input wires, set it closer to the lower (15W) end of the band.

billyb

iTrader: (15)

hi where would the best place to connect the line out converter to for the amp.

mile_high51

iTrader: (5)

sorry to be a pita, but what your saying doesn't match the picture. I take it that picutre is simply just for reference.

So I set my input sensitivity close to 3v?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

That picture is taken from the owner's manual for your amp. I have edited the picture this time so that the band is circled in red. The upper end of the band represents 40W and the lower end represents 15W.

I have read and reread my post and it still means exactly what it said.

trx250r

you can turn up the sensitivity on the LOC all the way up and use the sensitivity on the amp to control what you are feeding you sub. to adjust it put on a song with the most bass you can think of and turn the volume up as high as you will ever listen to it. then start with the sensitivity on your amp at max volts and slowly turn it to lower volts until you sub doesnt get any louder by turning it more and then turn it back just a little bit.

pentavolvo

IMO half ur problem is from tapping at the oem subs u are prlying amplifying a **** ton of distortion. tap behind headunit, or before the amp. will prly sound way better

mile_high51

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I just simply misunderstood. I thought that the "band" that you ended up circling was the "40-15w." But now I see that it is simply the 15 watt range, and the entire dial is 40-15w.

Thanks for your help, and sorry for my misunderstanding.

mile_high51

iTrader: (5)

It's just a bass signal, so distortion is really not an issue. It sounds fine, I just know it can go louder. But I do not want to ruin anything again.

mile_high51

iTrader: (5)

Honestly, that is like the 3rd time I've heard this strategy, and once from a "professional" audio guy. maybe I will just try it, but I'm still a bit weary of blowing something.

I'm going to give my sub a long (like over a month or so) break in period this time and maybe give this a go. Until then, I will use the watts/volts method and stay safe.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

No, you were right in the first statement. The band that I circled is the entire 15W to 40W range for speaker level input. The only time you use the rest of the dial range is when matching pre-amp level input (using the voltage output specified by the head unit).

If you use speaker level input to your amp, the dial must be set someplace within the range of that band - between 1 o'clock and 3 o'clock on the dial. The exact position will depend on the output power of your head unit. In the case of a Monsoon system, you would use 15W (3:00 on the dial) if you tap signal from the head unit or the input side of the Monsoon amp. You would use 40W (1:00 on the dial) if you tap into the speaker wires or the output side of the Monsoon amp.

pentavolvo

but the oem amp is probally boosting some of the lows excessively and there is most likely alot of distortion vs going before the amp which would be part of ur issue with blowing the sub