pbj-tj

iTrader: (2)

Hey all,

So basically had a mess the day I fired up my Rig. 98 LS1 in a Jeep Wrangler, see sig for more details.

First few times I cranked her over, I chipped two teeth on my flex plate
(The cheap, stamped plate, with the welded on ring)

For some reason I led myself to believe it would be ok for a little while, so tried starting the motor a few more times... dumb decision.

The motor fired up, then I shut it down... the next time I went to start it, I heard a loud noise from the starter/flexplate area... Got under there, and my starter flange had cracked in half completly and low and behold the outter tapped hole in my block for the starter bolt cracked.

It didnt crack completely, but bad enough to be concerned about. I dont think the crack traveled to the threads portion of the starter bolt hole... So I am wondering how to fix this/work around it without pulling the motor out.

Option 1:
There are a few starters on the market which have 3 & 4 bolt hole configurations, so I am thinking about just tapping 1 or 2 new holes in the block.

Option 2:
Get the cracked hole welded and re-tap it, thing is I imagine it being hard to weld aluminum on your back looking up.. not sure though

Option 3:
Design some kind of adapter flange that mates with my new starter and block, and try to get creative with tapping 1 or 2 new hole locations.

Anyone have any suggestions, input or ideas?

I will be purchasing the better flexplate this time around, im not sure if my old one was not heat treated properly, possibly bent... no clue

Thanks for any input you may have!

vertex

weld the cracked hole and retap another two with a new 3/4 bolt starter.

pbj-tj

iTrader: (2)

75 hits and 1 reply cmon all :}

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I would suggest getting it fix the right way.. (not what you wanted to hears)

Pull the block and get it welded up buy someone who knows what there doing or buy another block.

Jimbo1367

BCZZ
I recently seen your build thread. Very nice . I do have one question though. Why didn't you mock everything engine swapwise before you had the frame poweredcoated? I want the factory (low) AC mount too, but I don't think I could cut into a fresh poweredcoated frame. Just curious.
thanks,
Jim

99MUSTANG5.3L

OP, I would have the block welded. You may have to pull the motor out but at least you'll have the piece of mind knowing it's repaired correctly.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

The advantage of an aluminum block is that it can be welded. An iron block would be a boat anchor at this point.

I would pull the motor and have it welded up.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

People have successfully welded iron block too.. but I would leave any of this to the so called experts..

Jimbo.. to answer the question, it started out as SBC build a long long time ago.. I was about to finish up the build and start to rebuild one of the SBC for it.. then one night sitting around with a few buddy's.. over a few too many.. got to BS'ing around and this and that.. and that would be cool and yeah you can do it.. and what ever else I can't remember.. well after the usual morning fun.

I was reseaching on LS1Tech.. and browsing Craigslists looking for pull out LS1, a few day later.. well you know the end to this story LOL!..

But atlease it was only the Notch for the AC Compressor that needed a touch up with paint and dosen't look to bad as you can't see too much of the patching..

BC

chevybowtie

iTrader: (16)

Take a pic of it so we can access it.

pbj-tj

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the suggestions, i'll get some pics up of it, sounds like its going to get welded. I have a ton of room under there, wonder if it can be welded in the jeep... then it wouldnt be a big deal at all.

pbj-tj

iTrader: (2)

Mike52

iTrader: (1)

Since the flexplate has broken teeth, you need to pull the engine or trans to replace it, might as well pull the engine so you can kill 2 birds with one stone. Repair the block properly and replace the broken flexplate.

Don't try to short-cut the repair, do it the right way, don't make another "dumb decision", you see where the first one got ya.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

While the engine is out make sure you properly shim the starter before you mate the trans to the engine. My guess is there wasn't sufficient clearance for the starter gear.

This install guide shows one way to do it.

http://www.msdignition.com/instructi...?terms=starter

pbj-tj

iTrader: (2)

Ya, I hear ya. Im going to take it somewhere and see if It can be welded in the jeep before I pull the motor, I dont have a cherry picker etc. so Its a major deal for me to pull it. Maybe i'll get lucky and they can weld it with the motor in. There is a TON of room under there to get in with a welder with the 4" lift kit and 3" body lift, question is, can this aluminum weld be done while lying on one's back??? :-)

Thanks, that is the replacement starter I ordered. I will be following those instructions perfectly. Not gonna let this happen again...

txredxj

should be able to get a tig torch in there. break it off all the way and weld it back on otherwise it could keep cracking and chasing cracks sucks. then helicoil it

SuperC1

iTrader: (4)

Was it started with the battery low?

Junkman2008

Hey SuperC1, I had this happen to me also. Doing some research and that's why I'm bumping this old thread. Why do you ask about a low battery?

lamdenali

iTrader: (5)

That look exactly happen to my ls1 ,I took the motor out and the guy came over to my house in his truck and clean it out and weld it back, the starter broke the same way

Junkman2008

Did the weld hold? If so, how long has it been?

SuperC1

iTrader: (4)

The reason I asked is because normally that's what happens if you try to start the car with a weak battery the starter will attempt to turn and then kick back and snap the mount on the block, thats what happened when I mine broke. The thin arm on the stock starter will break in some cases too. You can go back with a truck starter that has a thick flange on both sides, this will provide more support to the starter.