Drivetrain strength of C5 vs C5 Z06?
05-21-2010, 08:31 AM
#1
Drivetrain strength of C5 vs C5 Z06? Hey Guys,
Just curious what the difference is in CV shafts, transmission, etc.
Assuming both cars are a M6, is the drivetrain any stronger in the C5 Z06?
Also... what are the realistic limits of the stock drivetrain assuming you dont beat the **** out of it drag racing? Like in a daily driver/spirited interstate runs kind of environment.
Any difference in things such as fuel system?
Thanks
Just curious what the difference is in CV shafts, transmission, etc.
Assuming both cars are a M6, is the drivetrain any stronger in the C5 Z06?
Also... what are the realistic limits of the stock drivetrain assuming you dont beat the **** out of it drag racing? Like in a daily driver/spirited interstate runs kind of environment.
Any difference in things such as fuel system?
Thanks
05-21-2010, 10:37 AM
#2
TECH Enthusiast
The C5Z has the M12 tranny which is geared lower than the M6 found in the C5. Strength wise, I haven't heard of either tranny being stronger than the other (I've seen some comments that the M12 is slightly weaker but haven't seen that substantiated). The torque tube was upgraded to be slightly stronger for all 01+ C5's. The rear and half shafts are the same to my knowledge. Fuel system is the same on both.
My '99 has been running over 400rwhp for the last 15k miles and has held up to few trips to the track and regular "spirited" driving.
My '99 has been running over 400rwhp for the last 15k miles and has held up to few trips to the track and regular "spirited" driving.
05-21-2010, 11:01 AM
#3
The C5Z has the M12 tranny which is geared lower than the M6 found in the C5. Strength wise, I haven't heard of either tranny being stronger than the other (I've seen some comments that the M12 is slightly weaker but haven't seen that substantiated). The torque tube was upgraded to be slightly stronger for all 01+ C5's. The rear and half shafts are the same to my knowledge. Fuel system is the same on both.
My '99 has been running over 400rwhp for the last 15k miles and has held up to few trips to the track and regular "spirited" driving.
My '99 has been running over 400rwhp for the last 15k miles and has held up to few trips to the track and regular "spirited" driving.
I've never been in the market for a vette, but they are starting to grab my attention.
Just trying to figure out if its worth it to get a C5Z over a C5, taking into consideration that either car would likely get a H/C/I combo.
Trending Topics
05-21-2010, 12:11 PM
#8
TECH Enthusiast
The vanilla M6 found in the C5 FRC/Coupe/Vert all have a 3.42 rear. The automatics came with a 2.73 or the optional performance ratio of 3.15.
As to whether the C5z is worth it over a C5 if your doing H/C/I, I would say no. A 6spd coupe with the Z51 option or an FRC will be significantly less $$ and with non runflats handle just about as well. A mild cam, LT headers and gears is all that is needed to match a Z06 in a straight line.
With serious mods like a big cam, nice heads and gears you've exceeded what any stock C5 (Z06 or otherwise) is going to perform like. And when swapping out the heads and cam, you've negated the motor difference between the LS1 and LS6. A fair number of road racers prefer the ratios of the M6 with a 3.90 or 4.10 over the M12.
The C5Z is a great factory package. If you want to buy the car and just drive it. Or add a few bolt ons it's a tremendous car. However if you want to seriously mod the car save the significant premium the Z06 commands and sink it into those mods. I'd look for a nice Z51 6spd coupe or FRC and mod the heck out of it.
As to whether the C5z is worth it over a C5 if your doing H/C/I, I would say no. A 6spd coupe with the Z51 option or an FRC will be significantly less $$ and with non runflats handle just about as well. A mild cam, LT headers and gears is all that is needed to match a Z06 in a straight line.
With serious mods like a big cam, nice heads and gears you've exceeded what any stock C5 (Z06 or otherwise) is going to perform like. And when swapping out the heads and cam, you've negated the motor difference between the LS1 and LS6. A fair number of road racers prefer the ratios of the M6 with a 3.90 or 4.10 over the M12.
The C5Z is a great factory package. If you want to buy the car and just drive it. Or add a few bolt ons it's a tremendous car. However if you want to seriously mod the car save the significant premium the Z06 commands and sink it into those mods. I'd look for a nice Z51 6spd coupe or FRC and mod the heck out of it.
05-25-2010, 06:05 AM
#9
Ok, here is my take. I bought a pretty modded c5 (99) coupe with m6, paid about 14 shipped, had some miles but made 414 on dynojet. I had to put a new spec clutch in it and I knew I probably would have to do that to do some drag racing. I prefer the coupe as it has the targa top. I went to the track the first time and broke it. I'm putting an 03 m12 in it with 16,000 miles, an 03 rear with hardened long shaft and dte brace. This car will definetly smoke any stock z car and will run high 11's. I've got about 20 in it with the upgraded drivetrain. Yes, its too much for a c5, but, love the look of the coupe and well its paid for. If you can find a modded auto, you'll have less drive train issues and they'll be more consistant at the track. The 6sp if fun on the street, but, much harder on parts. Just find a good buy and have fun.
05-25-2010, 06:52 AM
#10
Of course there's also the opinion on how the car looks that will sway some people into buying a Z06 too 
I love the FRC/Z06 chopped rear window - also remember that the Z06 (and FRC) are lighter than the coupes. On the scales with about 1/8th tank of gas mine was 3040# when it was stock. I'm sure it's a little lighter now with the LTs and ORX. As for the original question the drivetrain isn't any stronger on one C5/Z/FRC over another basically. Trans ratios are different in the Z06 as mentioned but that's about it.
I love the FRC/Z06 chopped rear window - also remember that the Z06 (and FRC) are lighter than the coupes. On the scales with about 1/8th tank of gas mine was 3040# when it was stock. I'm sure it's a little lighter now with the LTs and ORX. As for the original question the drivetrain isn't any stronger on one C5/Z/FRC over another basically. Trans ratios are different in the Z06 as mentioned but that's about it.
05-26-2010, 04:48 AM
#12
The MN12 transmission gives the equivalent gearing of ~ 3.90 gears except that 4th gear is still 1:1 (so right on par with the MN6) and the over drives are smaller.
Honestly, the MN12 in my C5Z has given me a pretty good advantage over bolt-on coupes. I personally think it's a fantastic gear ratio set. Putting 3.90's in an MN6 would be cool, but you lose the advantage of the MN6 (which is economy).
If you could care less about economy, MN6 with 3.90's or 4.10's is the way to go.
05-26-2010, 12:58 PM
#13
I have heard that the C5 Z06 CV-shafts are stronger than the base C5. Even some C6 folks want the C5 Z06 shafts for their builds. I don't know if there actually is any difference - simply what I have heard and read.
Last year I broke my stock differential output shaft, and I replaced it with a hardened shaft from DTE. The stock CV-shaft also broke in the same incident (at the track). I was tight on money after rebuilding the differential, so I just bought a CV-shaft from O-Reilly's for ~$60. Recently I picked up a pair of 26x11x16 ET Streets and started making passes at the dragstrip again. The O-Reilly's shaft is holding up just fine for 1.75 sixty foot times. You just need to slip the clutch on the way out instead of a dump.
By the way, I agree with buying a less expensive FRC and modding it for the style of performance YOU want.
Last year I broke my stock differential output shaft, and I replaced it with a hardened shaft from DTE. The stock CV-shaft also broke in the same incident (at the track). I was tight on money after rebuilding the differential, so I just bought a CV-shaft from O-Reilly's for ~$60. Recently I picked up a pair of 26x11x16 ET Streets and started making passes at the dragstrip again. The O-Reilly's shaft is holding up just fine for 1.75 sixty foot times. You just need to slip the clutch on the way out instead of a dump.
By the way, I agree with buying a less expensive FRC and modding it for the style of performance YOU want.
05-26-2010, 11:19 PM
#15
Teching In
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The propshaft and couplers were enlarged in 2001? (I have read some conflicting information that they actually changed during 2000.) Either way, the propshaft was upgraded from 58mm in diameter to 63mm. The bolts that hold the rubber couplers were increased from 10mm to 12mm.
I am in the process of changing my M12 in my 2002 Z06 to a MM6 which I plan to upgrade myself.. I have 510 rwhp and I'm hoping to get a little more usage out of 1st gear and perhaps some better gas mileage in 6th. I don't race my car enough to see the need to get every 10th of a second out of it. Later, if I get that need for speed I can upgrade the rear to a 4.10
I am in the process of changing my M12 in my 2002 Z06 to a MM6 which I plan to upgrade myself.. I have 510 rwhp and I'm hoping to get a little more usage out of 1st gear and perhaps some better gas mileage in 6th. I don't race my car enough to see the need to get every 10th of a second out of it. Later, if I get that need for speed I can upgrade the rear to a 4.10
05-30-2010, 08:07 PM
#17
10 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Winter Springs
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
4L65 = 0 wheel hop 
Heres a good example of how easy 11.15@122 is with an auto and a 408 all motor.
http://catchcans.com/videos/Rear%20G...20at%20122.wmv
Almost effortless , just gota keep it between the lines
Heres a good example of how easy 11.15@122 is with an auto and a 408 all motor.
http://catchcans.com/videos/Rear%20G...20at%20122.wmv
Almost effortless , just gota keep it between the lines
05-31-2010, 02:57 PM
#18
You'll get less wheel hope with the autos due to the extra weight in the back, but the diff, suspension, and driveline after the trans is the same. You will get wheel hop just the same if you launch hard enough. You're not shocking the driveline so much with the auto due to spooling up your torque, but regardless, it can and most likely will happen under the right circumstances.
06-04-2010, 01:24 AM
#19
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: West Norriton, PA
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The C5 Z06 differential has shot peened gears, you can tell by the "SP" in front of the 3.42 gear ratio stamped on the differential.
All 2001 manual corvettes got the improved torque tube.
The two and three ribbed differentials began in 2002 - 2004. Ideally the 3-rib is stronger.
Other than that they are pretty much the same other than 385 vs 405 Hp and heads up display on 2002 and up Z06's
All 2001 manual corvettes got the improved torque tube.
The two and three ribbed differentials began in 2002 - 2004. Ideally the 3-rib is stronger.
Other than that they are pretty much the same other than 385 vs 405 Hp and heads up display on 2002 and up Z06's
