FbodyAttraction

iTrader: (15)

Head gaskets seem to be the culprit. I do have the questionable cosmetic gaskets in there. Is there a how to on a gasket swap?

Any other advice, tips, tricks, etc would be appreciated. My first time tearing into an ls1.

So far I am planning on following the how to at http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2 and ignoring the cam swap. I am planning on going with GM MLS gaskets and a GM head gasket kit, and swapping out my plugs while I am in there. Should I also replace my springs? They have 60k on them now, here is the kit info:

http://www.lmperformance.com/4190/1.html

Comp LS1 26921 Spring Kit - Dual Springs with spring seats, titanium retainers, and steel jacketed valve seals. These are race quality springs designed to handle up to .650'' lift. Installs in factory heads without modification.

and my cam:

DUR @ .004" 282* / 286*
DUR @ .050" 220*/ 224*
LIFT .551/.551
OVERLAP 57*
LSA 114*

Thanks for any help!

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

I'm yanking my Cometics soon too. They are hit or miss!

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

I've run Cometics twice and have had no problems. They are just very tempermental to surface prep. You need to make sure that the deck surface and head surface are spotlessly clean and use Copper spray sealant as well.

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

I have done that everytime I have given them a try and still had one side or the other leak. Not always at first but eventually.

NoGamesLS1

iTrader: (16)

I am runnign Titan copper ringed gaskets, been happy so far

FbodyAttraction

iTrader: (15)

I'm going to try the GM MLS and see how that goes. APR Bolts will be reused.

Anyone know how often I should change my springs? Trying to make a parts list before tearing into it this week.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Though yor cam is on the mild side I would drop some nice PAC beehives in there. Even if they are in spec now they are prolly nearing the end of their practical lifespan and it is SOOOO MUCH easier to do it when the heads are off the car....

FbodyAttraction

iTrader: (15)

How do I flush the coolant out of the oil, and the oil out of the coolant?

Any experience on this?

FbodyAttraction

iTrader: (15)

Car is torn apart now, heads are in the shop. I tried using a plastic scraper on the old gasket, but it isnt coming off. I switched to carb cleaner and a razor.

Anyone got any advice on flushing the oil out of the coolant? A buddy of mine said to run Cascade dish detergent through it once its back together.

nysbadmk8

Keep your buddy away from your car.


Straight vinegar should do the trick.

FbodyAttraction

iTrader: (15)

Vinegar? I dont see where it would do anything to the oil. Vinegar would just corode any metal in my coolant system.

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

DETERGENT? w..t..f?

FbodyAttraction

iTrader: (15)

Yeah I know... right? And this guy is a mechanic. Vinegar wont even mix with oil, so that out of the question.

Maybe some liquid degreaser?

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

im not 100% on how you can "clean" the oil/coolant out of your system. someone probably knows a method that works. but now that the heads are off you prob should swap springs. 60k miles on the current ones?
and a GM MLS head gasket is great, i run those with out any issues

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

GM MLS is the way to go, I run them on my 347 and no problems what so ever.

FbodyAttraction

iTrader: (15)

I am having the head shop check them for heights and pressures. They should be able to let me know if they are out of spec. This spring kit is $650 so I am praying I dont have to replace them

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

wait.. what?! a VALVE SPRING kit is $650?!!?!?!?!

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

For the oil pan: just drain the oil pan, refill with cheap 5W-30 and put on a new filter, run it up to temp, then repeat the oil change with your normal oil flavor.

For the cooling system: most parts stores sell a flush kit that connects into your heater hose. I just pulled my big heater line off the water pump, added the kit's T-fitting, and was all set. You drain the rad, leaving the cap off and the drain petcock open. Connect a garden hose to the T-fitting, turn on your garden hose, then start the engine and run it to temp. All kinds of nastiness will dump out the rad.

edit: some liquid dishwashing detergent may not be a bad idea. Without some sort of surfactant to pull the oil off the surfaces, it's unlikely the flush will be fully effective.

When finished, remove the T-fitting and reconnect your heater hose to the water pump.

This is an option, but I use my ShopVac and pull the water from the engine by removing the top rad hose and applying the pickup nozzle to the hose end. It does a decent job of pulling the tap water out of the block cooling jackets...plus you'll want to funnel coolant down the top hose to refill the block when you're done.

nysbadmk8

http://www.google.com/search?q=vineg...ient=firefox-a

Yes vinegar, you will have to run a surfactant.. thought that part would be common knowledge.

As for corroding your metal parts.. its a flush, not a coolant. Its only in there for an hour.

FbodyAttraction

iTrader: (15)

Yeah... FML:

http://www.lmperformance.com/4418/43.html