ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Guys what are you all recommending for WOT line pressure on a 4L60E? Internally this thing is built to the hilt so no worries here. Keep in mind i am running the factory PCM and force motor yet. I am at about 270 psi now WOT and at part apply around town its 225. Is this safe? I have some of the tables in the tune changed to help this and the screw in the force motor has been cranked about a 1/4 turn. The only problem i am having now is when it's at idle it's at about 150 psi and when i go to put it in drive with the brake applied the pressure jumps to about 225 and lugs the motor down and the driveline clunks at the same time. Any ideas on this? Should i go back to the stock apply pressures in the tune and leave the screw in a 1/4 turn?? Please help.............

What is stock pressure suppose to be at in drive at idle??

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

Minimum mechanical line pressure should be at least 190 psi.
This cannot be raised by electronics.
Maximum line pressure should not need to go above 240 psi.

A 4L60E in good condition with a transgo .500 boost valve and spring will have 236psi.
With the transgo white actuator valve spring it will have 3 to 4 psi more.

You really need to put a gauge on it and adjust the EPC back to normal.

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Guage is still hooked up and planning on maybe cranking the EPC back to normal and see what i end up with. I really would like to try to stay in the 250-260 range with WOT. Is this asking too much of this thing?? Read this post many times and there is alot of good info in it but at the same time is kinda all over the place........ https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-too-much.html

FLT

iTrader: (1)

Are you saying at closed throttle? I would say more like 70-80PSI at idle.

I would shoot for 210-230psi depending on the combo myself. More pressure is not always the solution for transmission life. I personally have seen many hard part failures to to excessive line pressure. With that being said use what I have suggested and I think you will be fine.


Ramairws6 my suggestion would be to get the stock pressure tables back in this trans and get the epc adjusted accordingly. You are not doing your trans any favors by what you are doing! Vince

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

No, thats not what I am saying.

Max line pressure should be 190 minimum and 240 maximum. This is with no EPC solenoid bleed off, such as when max line is being set and the EPC is disconnected electrically. Or when at WOT.

If max mechanical line pressure is set 190 to 240 the pressure with the epc connected should be within range at idle and part throttle (depending on computer tuning) but should be verified with a mechanical gauge.

I have the transgo kit and low mileage trans, it gets 70 psi at idle and 235-240 wot.

FLT

iTrader: (1)

No worries Jay! I misunderstood what you had posted. Thanks for the PM BTW! See you around. Vince

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

So Vince your saying i should put all my tables back to stock in the PCM and also turn my force motor screw back in the 1/4 turn and start over from there? Yes, it is at 150 p.s.i. at idle in park.........this too much??

72blownvert

Yes that is what he is saying.Like i said on the other forum.

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Ok, i dropped the pan and turned the force motor back a 1/4 turn. I seem like i gained quite a bit except for when i go from Park/Neutral to drive i still get the aggressive driveline clunk. If i watch my force motor amperage on my Tech II it goes from .9 amps to .6 amps going into drive and this is my problem with line pressure rise. I think my tune is jacked so i will have to go back to the stock tune and start from there??

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

You really need to check it with a gauge.

As far as the tune, it's only 2 main tables that will effect constant pressure.

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Dude you don't understand............the gauge has been on it since this tranny has been put in!?

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

If thats the case then I don't know what the problem is.

Make sure the force motor current table is stock.
Make sure the Base Shift Pressure vs Torque vs Gear is stock.
Any other pressure constant table should be at zero (stock)
Then adjust the EPC back to a normal range.

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Already all done, just don't think it will survive at these pressures with all my power,,,,,,,,,,

72blownvert

Whats done to to the the trans internally?

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Pretty much a level 7 build........

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

Thats says absolutely nothing about what parts are in it or anything.
Just trying to help.

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

Just leave it as is and if it fails it'll be a learning experience.
You don't seem to want to take advice, so don't. Just leave it alone.

transam69230

iTrader: (49)

Your car has billet input and output shafts on it?

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Yep, had those in there for 4 years already. Trust me, i have things in my trans that the level 7 builds don't have!

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Dude you haven't given me any advice that i didn't already know. The guage has been on it from the beginning and i know exactly what pressures i'm at in every throttle range. I'm trying to figure out what will help me keep the 3-4's survive because not enough pressure/small apply piston surface is what kills these things! So if you have something knowledgable i'm all ears if not then have a nice day............