Kipring

Ello,

I hope to be the proud owner of a LS1/T56 powered C3 in several month's time. I've already learned enough to get me started from this site and still have much hands-on learning to go. I'm going between work and school at nights I'm afraid the swap will go slow, but bare with me I'm not one to quit and appreciate your assistance.

In return for this site's help and communal support, I hope to document as much as possible. From pictures, costs, savings, and steps taken to help others hurdle my mistakes and hopefully give a little back for the support and knowledge I gain from your help.

So, before I start I just want to already say: Thank you!


Thus far I have come into possession of an LS1/T56 from a trans am with 61k miles. The secondary owner of the engine seemed honest and trustworthy whom had purchased the duo for a 300zx swap that never quite got off the ground. Here it falls into my lap. I'm not a mechanic, but I am capable of this or will be, between now and completion at least .


My goal, is to check the engine, verify as best I can that it is sound, clean it, replace necessaries, paint, and then proceed to make room for its new home within the C3.

On the stand ready for inspection and tear down.



Examining the runners, which thanks to the forum were validated as very clean. Removed valve covers and found no sludge or buildup, just a nice golden hue. Began wiping everything down and protecting the runners from any debris. After a thorough cleaning, taped off the runners to prevent any particles from falling within.




Cleaning up and protecting till next time.




Couple of questions thus far:

I'm aware that the head bolts, rod bolts, and caps all have a one use limit. Are there other bolts, namely the intake manifold, rear cover and front cover bolts torque to yield as well?

Would it be okay to spray WD-40 into the cylinders through the spark plug holes to help protect the cylinder walls?

If the engine has 61k miles should the water pump be replaced? Thus far I've been cleaning it and it seems okay, but I'm not an expert (I am planing on putting in a new thermostat if I don't replace it).


I'm currently planning on replacing the rear seal given the ease at which I have access to the engine's rear. Is there a front seal that needs to be replaced as well or am I going overboard with both?

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

gonna be a sweet build man, let me help where i can..

the crank/hub bolt is also TTY

dubdee40 should be fine; i used a similar sponsor product called fluid film. That said, i used the word should on purpose, just in hopes that if theres some long term issue or if other people had bad experiences they chime in, cause i havent done it.

The wp should be good with only 61k, but i always look in whatever openings i can to get an idea of corrosion; here in AZ coolant systems choke up fast it seems.

Chances are the rear and front main seals are good, but if youre the type to go for 'safe over sorry' now would be the time. Its just behind the timing cover (easy) and chain (not as easy, but doable). Plan on camming it? now would be the time for that too.

Kipring

Does the crank pulley seem okay or should it be replaced while its accessible? I think I can remove the rust from it no problem.



The openings looked pretty clean on both the block and WP and I've got the new aluminum gaskets on order so as not to reused the one time only, old ones.



I've thought about installing a new cam, but all of this is a big experience/expense and I'm afraid adding a cam now may introduce new issues. I'm totally unsure if a different cam might require; different heads, stronger springs, new fuel mappings, timing, etc.

I guess I would be for it if I knew it could be done without additional tuning and keeping with the stock heads and assembly.

Thanks for the suggestions, much appreciated.

Kipring

One Derusted Crank




Intake Manifold: Cleaned and Sanded for Paint. Painted with VHT.






Next orders of business: Finish cleaning up the water pump, replace rear seal, clean and paint engine.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Intake bolts are reusable.
WD40 is fine, fogging oil is better.
You'll need to modify the water pump heater inlet/outlet to clear the A arm. Might as well buy a new one, practice on the old one. You'll also need a strait (CSR) thermostat inlet or a clockable aftermarket.
My 68 corvette build.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...eed-build.html

Kipring

Danke


Already started on the mod, I have the new fittings and taps ready. Just waiting on the clean up before I start putting them in. Yeah, I've seen the CSR thermostat housings, good to know that they will work for our type of application .

Kipring

Well finally an update with progress and questions.

I've managed to replace various serviceables. Get the block cleaned and painted. Here she is assembled and (hopefully) ready to be put into where she will be going.









Now that the engine, I think, is ready. I've started removing the engine and transmission. Thus far I've gotten the transmission out. Not much, I know, but a small win for the learning process.



I've run into a couple of questions. Any chance there would be a suggestion for the type of engine mount adapters to put in place to allow a T56 to line up within the corvette stock drive shaft, slip yoke, and allow the shifter to poke through? I know that this might be a lot to ask.

Another question, if someone cannae offer a suggestion for the adapter plates, anyone have a suggestion on how to measure the engine and transmission appropriately allowing a good guess at the adapter plates I might order?

For the T56, anyone know a good suggestion for a crossmember replacement?



Minor Thought:
I'm also looking for long tube headers that might fit within the corvette. I plan on doing the borgeson steering swap.


I know this is a lot to ask and I have been running searches but I don't have any concrete answers. Thanks for any suggestions.

Kipring

Spent sometime searching on the vette forums and found this little gem.

http://www.motorgen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22


Link to thread where I found some answers. Guy did the same swap I'm doing and used the vette works adapters which allowed the stock drive shaft to be used and the t56 to align well within the tunnel.

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

Engine looks great! I helped my dad install his tremec tko 5 speed and man it was tricky. It was very tight because the trans crossmember is welded into the frame lol. What year is your's?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Generally with a T56, the motor is mounted as far forward as possible to get the shifter to line up with the original position.
Check out the swap and directory stickys here for info.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-tech-performance-3/

Kipring

Geez, I cannae believe I forgot that detail.

It's going into a 1982, Automatic (all 82's are unfortunately). Luckily with the auto crossmembers they are bolted in.


Yeah, I've been sifting through their 2360 post thread on LS1 swaps into C3. Difficult to find a particular needle in the haystack of information, but I'm a member there and have actually been through that thread several times. There are suggestions and posts of what people have used including those with my current configuration, but it's difficult to find a concrete answer saying yes this 'X' configuration will work with this 'Y' mount. Thanks though for the input. Any and everything is appreciated.

Kipring

Well after some delay the SBC is finally out. Good by Crossfire Injection.




With the motor out, time for some cleaning and wiring to work out.

I've got an A/C and heater controller issue I'm having to fix. Given the free range of the gaping hole within the engine bay, I'm probably going to opt to upgrade the old steering to the borgeson stuff.

I went with the recommended engine adapters that place the engine forward like gary68 suggested.

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

Looks like its coming along!

As far as the cam goes, youd want new springs/pushrods/retainers/tune, but you might be plenty happy w the stock performance in that car..

If those mounts dont work i believe there are a few companies who make setups that can be 'clocked' forward/back so you have some adjustment.. For handling youd want the engine as far back/down as possible, but for ease of swap, forward and up is probably your friend.

All of your questions have progressed past any of my experience, so im just throwing out answers now to questions that look way behind you, but... ya know..

Hey that 'crossfire blue' sure is pretty!

Kipring

With the SBC engine out of the way, I've started some general clean up and removal of antiquated parts.

I got to thinking about the old SBC harness. Is there any point in keeping it? Can I toss it?

I have a good LS1 harness, will it have everything I need to replace the old harness?

Thanks,

~Kip

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

The key on everything - especially wiring is remove it by the clips and connectors so it can be reused if necessary. In many ways it is a lot like rope and should never cut unless you need to.

Also don't throw away anything until the project is complete. I can't tell you how many parts I would have needed to re-buy over the years if I hadn't followed those two rules. You will be amazed how you can look at an old part and get an idea for a new one or use an old part on the build instead of buying a new fitting or whatever.

Kipring

Hey Guys/Gals,

I've finally found some time and have started moving forward on the project.

Part of this entails replacing my gauges. I was hoping to use the LS1's sensor signals to the gauges.

As I currently understand, the Speedo and Tach both receive info from the PCM.

The fuel sending unit is part of the fuel pump assembly and the volt gauge is just measuring your battery's voltage.

This leaves the oil pressure and temperature gauges.

What are the ranges for the Speedo, Tach, oil pressure, and temperature gauges relative to the sensor/PCM outputs from the LS1?

I've tried running several searches but haven't managed to hit on what I need. If someone could point me in the right direction.

Thanks,
~ Kip

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure what year C3 you have but with crossfire I'm assuming a later one. If you want to use original gauges, you can.
If you've got an electronic tach, simply tell your tuner to set the ecu for 8 cylinder instead of 4.
Your mechanical speedo is a problem. The T56 only has an electric output. You can get a mechanical aftermarket tail for about $500, or use a cable x box for $300, or get an electric speedo.
Use the vette oil pressure and temp sender with metric to 1/8" npt adapters (speedway motors). My 68 had a HUGE 1/2" npt temp sender, so I tapped the drivers side brass block plug.
Volts is just volts, and fuel uses the original sender in the tank.
Oh, and your clock still wont work..........
If you go with aftermarket gaudes, get a set with electric speedo and tach. The set will probably come with senders with npt threads so you'll still need adapters.

Kipring

Gotcha, thanks!

Black&White

Your thread seems to be missing a picture of the car

Kipring

Well I finally had sometime in between changing jobs and the spring/summer break for school.

Current Progress:
Cleaned and repainted the engine bay, installed a new power brake booster, new pedal assembly (for the manual trans swap), new clutch master cylinder, new F-body electric fans, and currently working in a new simple gauge cluster.

I'm having problems trying to figure out how much more I may have to cut off from the clutch cylinder rod. Any suggestions?

I'm close to dropping in the motor and start in on the harness, does anyone happen to know the where to get OEM style connectors so I can wire in the electric fans?

Thanks,
~ Kip