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Old 01-09-2011, 09:32 PM
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Question Oil Change

My car is approaching 81,000 miles and I was wondering what would be(in your opinions)the best oil that I could put into my LS1?

-02 camaro z28, slp lm1, hypertech prog.
Old 01-09-2011, 09:48 PM
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If you love your Z28 then some TLC at any cost is worth the personal investment. Here's the parts I installed and my SS loves me now.

Old 01-09-2011, 10:28 PM
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Another good Q, do you believe in E3 spark plugs or just stick with NGK?
Old 01-09-2011, 10:38 PM
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You're going to get a million responses on here. Oil is all a matter of personal preference when it really comes down to it. Any name brand synthetic oil will do the job. I run mobile one in my car and have no problems with it.
Old 01-09-2011, 10:40 PM
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stick with NGK TR55's

and for oil, LS1's love German Castrol Syntec 0w30 with a quality (i.e. K&N) oil filter

you can get good deals on it at autozone sometimes, so keep an eye out
Old 01-09-2011, 11:18 PM
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If you're stock, get some NGK TR55's and gap them to .50

As far as oil goes, I always have used Mobile 1 5w30, and a mobile 1 filter.
Old 01-09-2011, 11:24 PM
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that Amsoil batch is gonna cost you a pretty penny each time. "MOST" LS1'ers use M1, GC, and Penzoil Platinum with a K&N oil filter or AC Delco. NGK TR55 are the only plugs you need for now.
Old 01-09-2011, 11:51 PM
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With 81K on the clock it's kind of late for an expensive synthetic oil like Amsoil. It's not going to undo the wear that the motor already has at this point. If you use M1/Penzoil/Valvoline synthetic and a good oil filter like NAPA gold or K&N, it will protect the motor for many trouble free miles.
Old 01-10-2011, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by kellogg22
My car is approaching 81,000 miles and I was wondering what would be(in your opinions)the best oil that I could put into my LS1?

-02 camaro z28, slp lm1, hypertech prog.
Well considering that if you have not put Syn oil in the car for the first 81k or so miles then do not bother switching. Chances are you will blow up a piston before a bearing goes out and when you rebuild then maybe considering using Syn from the start.

I use regular Dyno oil, the car is driven mostly in Spring/Summer/Fall, no winter and even if it was, I would not be worried.

Best as in ANYTHING is a very subjective term. Technically Best for me is what is cost efficent and what the car likes. Frankly I put just about 3k on a car a season and techincally I could do a oil change @ the beginning on Syn. Go a whole season, leave it in over the winter and change fresh @ the Beginning again.

Or do 3 seperate oil changes @ 1k mile intervals for around the same cost and your not hurting it by doing that.

I run Mobil Clean 5000 on a AC Delco Filter. I might consider a Napa Gold Filter for the 6.0L as it has some more capacity. IF I was to consider Syn, then I would look @ Pennzoil Platnium.

As for the rest of the Tune-up Look at other things and I will say when I did my cam @ 35k I did everything except bleed out the older brake fluid.

Coolant- Prestone (mixes with anything)
Plugs- NGK TR-55
Wires- LS6
Pads/Rotors- Top of the Line Autozone (Front/Rear)
Battery- The Positive Post rotted off, Autozone
Wipers- RainX (honestly for the times it sees rain, could have been generic)
Fuel- Autozone brand
Oil- Mobil Clean 5000 (recommended weight)
Oil Filter- AC Delco
Serp Belt- Gator Back (matched to the SLP U/D Pulley
P/S- Flush/Fill
Transmission Fluid- M6 Pennzoil Synchromesh, A4 Dexron ATF & Filter
Air- K&N Recharge which took a few days letting the oil dry and set.

This stuff adds up, even when you do your own work.
Old 01-10-2011, 07:15 AM
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I have run Royal Purple 5w30 and either a k&n or napa gold filter since i bought the car 16000 miles ago. Motor has about 42000 now. Never had a problem
Old 01-10-2011, 09:28 AM
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I use what every synthetic oil that on sale with a a/c delco filter, but I do not use Q-Shake. Have not had and problems. The key is to change your oil.
Old 01-10-2011, 09:47 AM
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Amsoils good but a little pricey...Ive use just about every full synthetic on the market(mobile 1, Pennzoil plat & ultra, amsoil, etc. and alll have been good, go w/ the best price...K&N or mobile one makes a good oil filter, just stay away from Fram filters.
Old 01-10-2011, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by RedHotG8
With 81K on the clock it's kind of late for an expensive synthetic oil like Amsoil. It's not going to undo the wear that the motor already has at this point.
Huh, says who? I had an oil leak when I first bought my car...a few synthetic changes and the leak was no more....Id have to disagree w/ you, I definately believe it helps recondition seals along w/ cleaning out previous wear/sludge.
Old 01-10-2011, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Well considering that if you have not put Syn oil in the car for the first 81k or so miles then do not bother switching. Chances are you will blow up a piston before a bearing goes out and when you rebuild then maybe considering using Syn from the start.
What?

The negative side to switching to synthetic after having ran conventional for so long is that conventional sludges up, and while that isn't good in and of itself, it blocks leaks. Synthetic will clean that sludge, and may present a leak (not cause it), if it's already there. Even so, fix the leak and run synthetic.
Old 01-10-2011, 10:46 AM
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so does or has anybody used the high mileage oils for LS1's over 100k? my dad seems to like the valvoline 10w30 high mileage version?
Old 01-10-2011, 11:17 AM
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I have always used pennzoil platinum in mine, but just picked up some german castrol on sale and I'll be damned if the ticking I've had since I first fired the ls1 swap isn't literally gone now...

Think I'm going to stick with the castrol now, the engine is much less annoying with it
Old 01-10-2011, 11:19 AM
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im another pennzoil platinum user, im very pleased....
Old 01-10-2011, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 4WOFURY
What?

The negative side to switching to synthetic after having ran conventional for so long is that conventional sludges up, and while that isn't good in and of itself, it blocks leaks. Synthetic will clean that sludge, and may present a leak (not cause it), if it's already there. Even so, fix the leak and run synthetic.
What I stated had ZERO to do with what you just said.

My stand point is on Bearing/Cyl Wall Health. Wear on the engine is measured on these parts mainly. What becomes the ROOT cause of a rebuild generally does have to do with.....

1) Head Gaskets
2) Piston/Rod Damage
3) Bearings
4) Block Damage

Being that a motor that is PROPERLY maintained with conventional oil for 81k Miles will not see nearly the benefit of life so late in the cycle as it would have if it was swapped with in the first 10,000.

Syn absolutely have their place but what I said was an opinion. But do not twist my words into something that is not.

As for "Sludging" get off the TV and stop watching commericals. Sludging occurs primarily on engines with POOR service cycles. Not changing it regularly is what leads to this issue. Period.

Depending on the set up, be it a 87 Grand National Motor or Nitrous Spec'ed LSx based motor is not only is recommended to run convential, but to run a very thick weight due to ring gap specs.

So what works on one does not work for all. But one piece of advice that will encompass possibly EVERY single engine ever created in all of exsistance is simply....

Maintain proper Service Cycles!

Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; 01-10-2011 at 11:27 AM.
Old 01-10-2011, 11:28 AM
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I'm also a pennzoil platinum user, with the longer WIX truck filter for 6 qts.

I use this stuff in both my cars.
Old 01-10-2011, 11:52 AM
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I use the high mileage Valvoline 10w30


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