twotone64

So my decision has been to go with stock style nylon fuel line. I got all the line I needed from a late model car. My application is a 64 chevelle with a 2000 LQ7 (5.3L). I have the return style fuel rail. I have three lengths of fuel line. The feed line has a short section from the tank to a filter, then from the filter to the engine bay, and then there is a short secton from there that connects to the engine. The return line is two pieces a short run from the engine to the rail and then from there all the way back to the tank. And then the evap line which ran from the tank all the way to the engine bay to a solid line to a rubber line to the charcoal cannister.

The tank ends were cut before I got the lines, as well as the engine side.

So I need help... How do you get the original barbed quick connects into the nylon line. I tried hot water, but ended up kinking the line and still couldnt get the barbed ends into the line. I was going to try and use a heat gun this weekend.

twotone64

Anyone have any ideas?

Rich2279

iTrader: (7)

Did you ever get it to work?

twotone64

No, a local Napa told me there is a special somewhat expensive tool that is used. I'm sure there is a trick, I just haven't found it. I plan to ask the local hydraulic shop or truck shop since they use nylon lines for air brakes.

chevyz2801

iTrader: (20)

air systems have push lock fitting but dont know if it will hold up to fuel you might be better off getting a roll of stainless steel or aluminum line.

twotone64

chevyz2801,

Thanks for the info. I already have the OEM nylon fuel line. It was from a junkyard find. There is a local hydraulics shop that sells the nylon line, rated for fuel not just air, that I plan to take it to, to have the fittings installed. I was just hoping for a do it yourself type of answer.

ericwilloughby

I'm considering nylon instead of stainless braided. How'd yours turn out?

twotone64

Sorry its been so long, I was goign through all my posts making sure I followed them up. It turned out well. Most auto parts stores carry brass repair fittings in their help section. They are inline parts with screw-on crimps. They worked well. I just made sure I got the connections I needed and didn't break them as I removed them from the fuel tank, fuel filter and intake connections.

Ollie8974

Yes, $149.99 at Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...ine+repair+kit

This is a link to the Dorman catalog.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalo...Disconnect.pdf

TurboS10

iTrader: (12)

<$200 front to back for OEM fuel line that won't weep..... sounds better than braided hose.

1936 LS1

iTrader: (10)

Resurrecting this thread as I'm trying to make those connections now, too. I've tried boiling water and experimented with different boiling times. After 3 minutes I was able to force one of my short "test pieces" on. It was far too difficult and I know it would kink the line if I tried it on the actual piece for the car.

Do I take it from your post that you gave up on the slip-on nylon fittings and went to something else?

Ollie8974

Reading the OP comments in post #8, I would say, yes he gave up on the slip on fittings and used the compression fittings.

1936 LS1

iTrader: (10)

That's the way I took it too. I have come up with a cheap, effective way to assemble these fittings/lines. Details coming soon.

Ollie8974

Yes, post your results, I for one would be interested in your solution. There are adapters available, to adapt the slip on fittings to AN. Photo 1 is a Russell brand.
Photo 2 fittings installed on a 99-2000 Fire Bird / Camaro fuel pump module.

KENS80V

iTrader: (16)

Here is the correct tool to install the fittings on the nylon tubing. Money well spent if you ask me. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-800-301/

1936 LS1

iTrader: (10)

I'd have to disagree, KENS80V. At least on my budget. If I had a shop and did this every day, maybe. But to install 4-6 fittings on one car, one time? At least it's cheaper through Summit. It's nearly $200 everywhere else. I'll take some pics this weekend to show how I did it with stuff you probably already have.

ericwilloughby

Please do. SS braided is big, bulky and leaks like a MF'er.

Mr. Fuel Pump

Applying heat to loosen up the nylon tube to insert a QC is a no-no, the tube will lose it's 'memory' and not bounce back and hold any pressure. The only way to do it is to push it on by using brute (hydraulic) force and suitable fixtures to hold the tube and QC in place during insertion.

1936 LS1

iTrader: (10)

As promised, here’s a step-by-step on how to install fittings on factory-style nylon fuel line WITHOUT having to buy the expensive (IMO) tool that Dorman sells.

Here’s what you’ll need:
A roll of tubing (Dorman 800-072 is the 3/8”)

The appropriate fittings for your job

Some light lubricant (I used hydraulic jack oil)

The line clamp from a brake line flaring kit (don’t worry if you don’t have this, there’s an alternative)

A caulking gun

A single edge razor blade or tubing cutter that used for air line (gotta be something that won’t crush as it cuts)

To start, make a clean cut of the tubing. I used a single edge razor blade.
Next, insert the end of the tubing through the end of the caulk gun as shown.

Now, clamp the tubing in the flaring tool clamp using the hole in the clamp that corresponds with the size of your tubing. Leave only enough tubing sticking out to fit all the way on to the fitting (I've actually got a little too much sticking out in my pic). Clamp it tightly, but only hand tight. It won’t slip. You don’t need it as tight as is required when flaring brake lines. If you’ve done that job, you know what I’m talking about.

Now seat the clamp in the far end of the caulk gun as shown. Be mindful of the tubing past the clamp. Don’t let it get any pressure on it and get kinked.
Now add a little light lubricant to the fitting. Just enough to get it shiny, it doesn’t need to be dripping wet.

Great, now it’s time to assemble! Move the plunger forward in the gun until there’s just enough room for the fitting between the plunger and the tubing. Align the fitting with the end of the tubing and hold them in alignment with your fingers while you start to squeeze the handle of the caulk gun. Watch closely because it only takes 2-3 clicks to seat the fitting fully.

Take the clamp off of your tubing and you’re ready to move on to the next one!

Alternative clamping method

If you don’t have a flaring tool clamp there is another option. I’ve seen this a couple of places online but haven’t built one myself.

You’ll need:
a short (4-6”) 2X4 (or two 1X4s the same length)

a band saw or access to one

4 – 1.5” wood screws

Drill bits slightly smaller than your tubing OD (outside diameter) (ex. 5/16” hole for 3/8” tubing)

I got the pic of this type clamp below from another site so to give credit where it’s due, here’s the link...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-fittings.html

That poster actually oversized one end so the fitting would go down in there too.

You can see how to build it from the pics. You could also use 2 1X4’s screwed together and drill the hole on the seam where they meet. If doing more than one size line, you could put two different size holes in one clamp.

EDIT: I added two more pics. There were some negative comments made about the way the joint in the first set of pics I took ended up so, to show that they got better after my first attempt I added a couple of pics. The tubing clamp does leave marks on the outside of the tubing but apparently the Dorman tool does as well. The wooden clamp probably wouldn't. The marks are superficial and have no effect on the integrity of the tubing.

KENS80V

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the great explanation on how you did it. I feel no need to buy the $100 tool now.