coupenasty

I'm having issues with my neutral safety switch. I have replaced it and some times it works and sometimes it doesn't. It's like u just have to find the sweet spot for it. If it doesn't work u have to get down and move it around a little and then it will usually start. Can I eliminate this by just hard wiring it in or will it jack with the computer and cause more headache? This is my wife's daily driver and I work out of town alot and afraid it might leave her stranded any ideas on a fix

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

For my mustang(ls1/t56 swap) I just cut the two wires on one side of the sweitch, and wired them to the other wire on the switch and that eliminates the CSS. Havenmt seen what the one on the V looks like.

coupenasty

Well there are four wires on this plug and two of each are the same color. They way I understand it is the volts go in and then back out when the pedal is pushed in. I really don't think it would hurt anything if it was hard wired in like thAt but not sure. I'm guessing u haven't had any issues with yours being wired in like that. Don't want to cause more problems

lollygagger8

iTrader: (7)

NSS's are sensitive to placement. While you are adjusting where the best place for it is, have somebody bump the key to see if it starts.

I had to crawl on my back underneath my Cherokee (automatic) and adjust (unbolt and move a bit) the NSS plenty of times when it was going out...that got fn old QUICK. Bought a new one, tested for the best spot and was done with it.

If you've already replaced it, I'd say you haven't found the best spot for it. Or you did find it, and it's moved since. Make sure that bolt is tight too so it doesn't move after you do find the best spot.

Also, like itsslow, I put a jumper wire and defeated my old Camaro's NSS.....but that was also an automatic.

coupenasty

there is really a no way to adjust it like that it just snaps over the rod. works like a plunger. you push the pedal in and the rod slides and compresses the spring load switch. at one time you could es up on the pedal and it would finally make contact and fire up but know its not doing that. i guess you guys arent having any issues since yall made the jumper. almost thinking about doing it myself. and just eliminating the switch

9t8z28

iTrader: (19)

I am pretty sure the switch is the same as it was in my Camaro. I just put a zip tie around it. I hate having to have the clutch down to start any car.

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

Neutral safety switch is on automatics; you guys with manuals are thinking of the clutch safety switch, fwiw. There is yet another one (can't recall the name - brake interlock maybe) on autos that they started installing after the Audi 5000 thing where you have to press the brake on an auto (and be in park) to start. Not on every newer car since, but on many of them.

they are similar in nature though, where the NSS will only allow the car to start in park and the CSS needs to have the clutch pedal depressed to start. You can bypass either one, I'd imagine, but personally I'd just replace a faulty switch (esp. if it's an auto).

My VR-4 does not have the CSS functioning (bypassed) and it's never been an issue unless I had a remote start (which I wouldn't) as I always press the pedal and never really understood the point why the PO did that (I have a 'stutterbox' in the ECU chip that I need to wire in so not sure if I need that hooked up)...

I remember toyota 4x4's had a button on the dash that would bypass the CSS, but I never understood why, although my friend explained that it was helpful on hills, which makes sense.

coupenasty

i guess im going to make a jumper for the switch to delete it. there are four wires two of each color so i am assuming all i did to do is match up the two colors. does anyone know if this is right

coupenasty

well i built a jumper and still nothing im going to look at the pig tail on my starter. any other ideas where to look thanks for any help

GREG O.

iTrader: (4)

Let me if u were able to bypass it....I am having the same problem ever since a clutch install....Another shop put a new sensor in and it started right up... Then he put the clutch in again and NOTHING......Just a key disabled code on the navigation face.....Somehow last week the shop has it working but i don't trust it.....If i could do a bypass i would...

coupenasty

i have checked the battery and it is good. im thinking about moving to the ignition switch now. either that or its on its way to the dealer. if you have any other ideas hit me up thanks

coupenasty

decide to pull the starter off. thank god the parts store couldnt get one in for a week ended up taking it to a starter shop and they replaced the silonoid. they said something in it go loose and was arcing out. $43 lot better than the $225 what the parts store was wanting. now for the bad it still wont start. i took a test light to the safety switch pigtail and looks like im not getting any power. notice it wasnt clicking like it normally does when trying to start so my next move is check the relays. man i hope this fixes this thing.

coupenasty

did some searching in the fuse box and finally found a bad fuse. replaced it and fired right up. finally. i hope this fixes this issue for a good while. went ahead and wrapped the motor mount and starter with dei heat shield wrap. man that stuff aint cheap. but anything that will help prevent this issue again in the future will be well worth it. thanks ls1tech for all the help i know i had to save myself a good chunk of money by doing it myself. thanks again