My oil smells like gas?
10-26-2011, 07:51 PM
#1
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My oil smells like gas? 2nd time I've encountered this. I've changed my oil twice in 5k miles (every time the warm oil pressure falls below 40 I check it for amount of oil)
I pulled the dipstick on the car just now, it's maybe 100F on the engine temp and it about knocks me over with a strong gasoline like smell.
It's similar to the smell of old 2 stroke boat motor exhaust. I THINK it's gas getting into the oil.
My warm idle oil pressure this afternoon was about 38. After a fresh oil change it's closer to 45/50 range.
What's goin on? Did some searching, didn't really find what I was looking for in particular.
car's about 1/2 a qt low, it hasn't been 2000 miles since my last change.
Car's stock Ls1, 00 Z, a4, 135k ROUGH miles. I got a fuel pressure gauge on the way from TSP to see about a hesitation problem when it's warm outside and the engine is under load.
car starts n runs fine, but it's down on power.
is it shot?
I pulled the dipstick on the car just now, it's maybe 100F on the engine temp and it about knocks me over with a strong gasoline like smell.
It's similar to the smell of old 2 stroke boat motor exhaust. I THINK it's gas getting into the oil.
My warm idle oil pressure this afternoon was about 38. After a fresh oil change it's closer to 45/50 range.
What's goin on? Did some searching, didn't really find what I was looking for in particular.
car's about 1/2 a qt low, it hasn't been 2000 miles since my last change.
Car's stock Ls1, 00 Z, a4, 135k ROUGH miles. I got a fuel pressure gauge on the way from TSP to see about a hesitation problem when it's warm outside and the engine is under load.
car starts n runs fine, but it's down on power.
is it shot?
10-26-2011, 07:58 PM
#4
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totally stock car. No dieseling.. when it gets to running temp tho it is hesitant to start. You don't get that compression feeling of it starting, it just sort of flubs and stumbles into running again.
When less than 1/4 tank of gas the car doesn't like to start. I have to cycle the fuel pump for a few seconds then turn it over for it to fire. Otherwise cold start it fires right up.
has new plugs, new wires, new air filter, fuel filter, cleaned TB, MAF, IAC, obv many oil changes, haven't ran any fuel system cleaner yet but I have some seafoam.
Car stumbles under load on hot drives, like trying to pass someone in 3rd or 4th. It's like it skips. Can do it 3 or 4 times passing a single car, makes it hard to pass sometimes.
Gets about 21mpg city driving, I run 93 octane in it. If I run it WOT for a while it stinks like carbon (probably not odd for an old motor I'd assume..) Back of the car after 2 or 3 tanks of gas is covered in black powder from normal city driving... but again exhaust is stock and old so. carbon build up I'm sure.
haven't done a leak down or compression check. Shop wanted a LOT. I tried to do it myself but my arms have bones in them and don't bend that way.
Here are my plugs after ~800 miles:
driver side, in order front to back. I can't see the pass. side plugs at all with all the EGR stuff in the way.
When less than 1/4 tank of gas the car doesn't like to start. I have to cycle the fuel pump for a few seconds then turn it over for it to fire. Otherwise cold start it fires right up.
has new plugs, new wires, new air filter, fuel filter, cleaned TB, MAF, IAC, obv many oil changes, haven't ran any fuel system cleaner yet but I have some seafoam.
Car stumbles under load on hot drives, like trying to pass someone in 3rd or 4th. It's like it skips. Can do it 3 or 4 times passing a single car, makes it hard to pass sometimes.
Gets about 21mpg city driving, I run 93 octane in it. If I run it WOT for a while it stinks like carbon (probably not odd for an old motor I'd assume..) Back of the car after 2 or 3 tanks of gas is covered in black powder from normal city driving... but again exhaust is stock and old so. carbon build up I'm sure.
haven't done a leak down or compression check. Shop wanted a LOT. I tried to do it myself but my arms have bones in them and don't bend that way.
Here are my plugs after ~800 miles:
driver side, in order front to back. I can't see the pass. side plugs at all with all the EGR stuff in the way.
Last edited by DarkFox118; 10-26-2011 at 08:04 PM.
10-27-2011, 07:47 AM
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easy?
MTI disagrees. I called them to do a compression and leakdown, they wanted $400.
I tried to do it myself with a rental tool, I tried for 45 minutes to get the hose they provided into the plug hole and gave up. I can't see it with the manifolds on, and can't seem to get it started in the holes.
MTI disagrees. I called them to do a compression and leakdown, they wanted $400.
I tried to do it myself with a rental tool, I tried for 45 minutes to get the hose they provided into the plug hole and gave up. I can't see it with the manifolds on, and can't seem to get it started in the holes.
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10-27-2011, 11:14 AM
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Put a test gauge on the fuel rail test port and let the car set and see if the pressure drops. More then likely you have a stuck or leaking injector.
Listen to people that are tring to help.
Listen to people that are tring to help.
10-27-2011, 11:24 AM
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Gauge is on the way. Will test when it arrives. It's coming ground from TSP but.. being in atlanta it usually gets here 2-3 days after shipment no matter where it's coming from.
It's got a hose, so hopefully I can run it up through the top of the hood as well and see it when driving around a bit if needed.
It's got a hose, so hopefully I can run it up through the top of the hood as well and see it when driving around a bit if needed.
11-03-2011, 04:41 PM
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Gauge came in today.I tried it out. I couldn't get it to stop leaking even after tightening it as tight as I could with wrenches, but I got it within a tiny tiny drip amount so I'm fairly sure it was accurate.
Gauge holds as sooin as the system is primed at ~55-58. With the car running it stays around the same range. I reved it a few times from the TB and it didn't dip or budge at all.
I can't drive it obv. with the gauge leaking. I think the nylon tape on the threads just wasn't good enough. I don't think I have any here at the house though. I'll have to get some more.
the gauge flickered up and down rapidly when the car was running (like 1-2 psi) I assume as the injectors fired. this didn't become any more severe as rpms increased.
Gauge holds as sooin as the system is primed at ~55-58. With the car running it stays around the same range. I reved it a few times from the TB and it didn't dip or budge at all.
I can't drive it obv. with the gauge leaking. I think the nylon tape on the threads just wasn't good enough. I don't think I have any here at the house though. I'll have to get some more.
the gauge flickered up and down rapidly when the car was running (like 1-2 psi) I assume as the injectors fired. this didn't become any more severe as rpms increased.
11-03-2011, 11:38 PM
#17
correct me if im wrong but a fuel system leak down test is where you put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail schrader valve, pressurize the fuel system (i.e. turn the key on), clamp off the fuel return line and check the gauge every so often noting how much the gauge leaks down over a certain time period. from past experience if it leaks down really quickly it could be one of two things. 1) leaky fuel pressure regulator or 2) leaky injectors (probably your culprit).
another thing to do before your leak down test is to Ohm out your injectors,,,, pull the plugs off of each injector one by one, put your volt meter on Ohms touch the red tester to one of the injector plugs and the black tester to the other plug and take the reading... maybe you have an injector that isn't working or stuck open... still do the leak down test though
another thing to do before your leak down test is to Ohm out your injectors,,,, pull the plugs off of each injector one by one, put your volt meter on Ohms touch the red tester to one of the injector plugs and the black tester to the other plug and take the reading... maybe you have an injector that isn't working or stuck open... still do the leak down test though
