transAMchubby

I'm about out of options. And about finished with this car.
'99 Trans Am, M6
When turning the key, the engine does not turn over, starter does not click or tick or make any noise what so ever like it is trying to start.

I drove my gf and I on a date about a month ago. Came out, and the car would not start. Would not turn over, or even click. She has AAA so the AAA truck shows up, he tests the battery and says it is just fine.

Security light is not on, not flashing. It does light up when turning the key, along with every other light on the dash, then they go off just like a normal startup sequence. Just to rule it out, I turn the key, then sit and wait at least 3 minutes, then turn key off, then try to start car. Nothing changes.

After trying a few things including knocking on the starter with a hammer handle, then a screw driver handle, while turning the key, no change.
I switched the starter relay with all 3 fan relays, no change.
We ended up pushing the car, popping the clutch, and I drove straight home, parked in the garage.

I took the starter off, took it to Advance Auto Parts: hooked it up to the tester and it spun immediately. The guy there is familiar with f-bodies (has a camaro and is active on a local racing forum) and said the starter sounds normal. Put the starter back on, no change. Still won't start.

I bypassed the clutch switch today, still no change.
Took the battery to get tested and charged at O'Reilley's. The guy there said it is good, needed a charge, but the battery is still good. Re-installed, nothing. Still not even a click from the starter.

Sanded the connectors and brass bolts to the battery, nice and shiny (same as the connectors at the starter.) Still nothing.

All the fuses look good, and even swapped the IGN and Starter fuses with others to make sure. Nothing changes.

I have an OHM-meter (ameter?) on its way over this evening that I will use to check the key and do the VATS bypass just to rule that out, but again, the security light is not on, is not flashing.

I have an INNOVA 3030 OBD2 scanner which will not pick up dealer codes, and I hooked it up: no non-dealer codes. Dealer wants $135 just to plug in their computer and check for codes (which takes all of 2 minutes to do) but I refuse to support that kind of BS from a dealership (a one hour tech charge for 2 minutes of work). Is there any other kind of shop that might carry the same type of scanner?

Now my garage drywall has a hole in it the size of my hand, and I cant drive my car without parking on hills. I do have a daily driver, but I need to get this trans am running again.

Any other ideas? At this point I'm desperate.
Thank you.

transAMchubby

ohm-meter set to 20k ohm setting: reading is 1.85
This corresponds to GM key number 7 which has a resistor of 1.87. I'm going to try finding resistors and bypassing the VATS. Will post results.

MurderedOut

iTrader: (21)

sounds like VATS. keep it simple!

elmarro

That happened 2 me once it ended up being a fuse check all of them..

SacrificialTA

Same thing happened to me...Drove me crazy for about 2 days then finally did the VATS bypass and Presto Car was fine!

transAMchubby

couldnt get time at lunch to get resistors. had class after work. now radio shack is closed. im so anxious to do this vats bypass. i really hope it works...otherwise, im pretty well F'ed. just looked at all my other bills. car will just sit all winter if VATS doesnt fix it bc i dont think any shop will do work for free....fail.

johnp94

iTrader: (12)

How about ignition switch ?

ghardester

Are you completely sure of your battery cable connections to your starter?

You have tested the starter and it is fine. The car runs fine when push-started. But you cannot get power to actuate the starter.

So you have a connection problem or as others have said a possible VATS problem.

gmcondub2s

iTrader: (4)

possibly a burnt starter wire by the headers

transAMchubby

so, I bypassed the VATS today. it Didn't help anything. I had a buddy help who has done his before, and after trying to start the car (nothing happened) I removed the resistor, tried to start it again, and the security light started flashing. so I plugged in the VATS again and the security light didnt flash. ruling that out.

i'm going to go ahead and get a starter, replace that, and if it fixes it then i'm set. if not, i'll take it back off and return it.

thanks so far for the help. if its not the starter at that point, then i'm going to get ahold of a wiring diagram and start diagnosing other components on the same circuit as the starter. i'll have to get ahold of a multimeter at that point.

projectX

iTrader: (51)

Damn I hate problems like these.

hardrock21

iTrader: (6)

Have you tested the wires at the starter for current? Put a test light on the ignition wire at the starter and have a buddy turn the key to try and crank it. See if it has juice. Vats doesn't regulate anything with the starter IIRC. I believe vats just cuts fuel/spark and the car will still crank, on gm's anyway. Buy a $6 remote starter switch at harbor freight if that wire doesn't have current and see if the car will crank/start with that, then just try to find where the break is in the wire, whether it's a bad fuse/relay or broken wire. Good luck.

transAMchubby

thanks for all the help and ideas so far...i'll see what i can do before the weekend. just so busy with work and class.

transAMchubby

well, still searching. when I bypassed the VATS there was this click (or tick, or pop, or light bang) that happened when releasing from turning the key, and only made one "click." It came from kind of within the dash, but was easier to hear from under the hood up by the clutch fluid reservoir. My buddy and I figure it was related to the relay "kicking." In addition to taking his working starter relay out of his t/a to try, we determined the relay is again not the issue.
I put a new starter on tonight (just wired it, didnt blot it in) and a new starter changed nothing. i had this suspicion, but figured i would at least give it a try.

i'm going to start searching for 2 things: a wire issue; and someone in the St. Louis area that might be able to replace the ignition cylinder (or a walkthrough)...
again, thanks for the help so far. i'll keep this thread posted and will definitely let you all know what the culprit is if i ever find it.

DETROIT_AREA_00_SS

iTrader: (7)

Ever figure this out?

transAMchubby

nope...unfortunately not yet. the guy locally who said he will help me diagnose this has been really busy lately. i drove it to work one day recently though. i had to park across a few spaces at the top of the parking garage ramp on a level thats harldy used. it may not have been the best way to get to and from work, but it worked (i live on a hill also) while the DD was getting a tire remounted.

i'll still keep this updated. it is nice to know that there are people still interested in my car's health. its like motivation.

transambrotha

iTrader: (3)

I had my GAUGE fuse pop and it wouldn't start and would act the same way you're describing, check it out if you haven't already.

transAMchubby

will do, thanks

edit: wasnt the gauge fuse. worth a shot though. thanks brotha. while checking fuses i pulled every one of them other than A/C, cruise, radio...(that type of stuff)

DaddySS

I attched the image of the wring diagram.

You'll need a test light or volt meter.

Note the fuses in the path to ignition switch,

transAMchubby

thats killer dude, thanks a billion! ill let you now how this goes!