Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I just plugged my slave cylinder line from the clutch MC to the slave cylinder, and the end just flops all around. Can't believe it doesn't seal tighter, but maybe its supposed to be this loose for driveline movement. You can see the angle it will go in the pic, and it will rotate 360 around that. Is it supposed to be that loose? I do have to push the plastic deal in to release it, I was just expected a lot more firm "click" when connected. Am I ok, or am I missing something?

THX!!

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Anybody?

I did work on it some more, and you can actually pull it out w/o depressing the plastic tab. Seems like the whole thing needs to go much further in. I opened my speed bleeder line just in case it needed to relieve pressure to allow it to go in, but no joy. Is there a trick to completely pushing this in?

also, how much room do you really need to push this on and off once I figure it out? As you can see from the pic, I only have about 2" and I've already beat the heck out of my floor. If that's enough I'd like to stop.

Thoughts?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

a pic of (or the lack of) the internal clip might help. It's definitely not "right."

aftermarket slaves began going to an external spring clip (somewhat like OEM radiator / heater hose clamps) but I don't think either of your parts are those.

What car is this which needed a canoe job on the floor?

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

This is in my 71 Cutlass.

I took the end out and bent the "fingers" and then it fit much more snugly. Although then its harder to get out. Does this look like its far enough in?

Also, the slave cylinder has a couple of rings that are just loose at the end; when I compress it these just pop out. Is this ok or do I need to do something about this?

Thx much for your thoughts.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Morning bump bump. Any feedback on the last picture? Is that the correct depth for the mc clutch line? BTW, this is a tick unit if that makes a difference, going into an 01 ls1 slave.

Thx!

EDIT: found helpful link, adding for anyone else w/same prob in future. Still hoping for add'l comment, but this is good:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVjEM...eature=related

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Guys, has anyone done the slave swap? Plz give me some feedback on post #4. Does the line look like its pushed far enough in? How 'bout the loose rings that come off when you compress the slave? Is that ok?

Thx!

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, good news, bad news. Suspecting this needed to go further in, I put some waterpumps on it and it definitely pushed in. Now it won't come out, even w/plastic release tab all the way in.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The ring isn't quite pushed in. Keep tapping it in and keep wobbling / wiggling it to release. Then, invest in those parts w/ the external clip from perfection, given the tightness of floorboard clearance. And don't forget the drill mod if you do a new line.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

It was all the way in (just not in the last pic) but I did keep pressing it in and out and it finally came out. However, I still cannot push the line in by hand. Is it supposed to be hard or is mine somehow defective? You're right, with the little room I have I need this to be able to push in easily. I bought one of the GM release tools off ebay yesterday; if I can get this to press in easily I think this style would actually be easier when it comes time to install and remove. Trying to get my hand in for setting up the clip seems dicey (I can see me dropping that clip down into the tranny). How hard is this to push in for others?

As for drill mod, don't need that w/tick adj MC as I understand it.

Blwn_by_Twins

iTrader: (6)

Is that a GM slave in post #4?

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

supposed to be an '01 LS1 slave new (bought from another forum member supposedly new with the LS7 clutch)

Aceshigh

I just bought a brand new slave directly from a GM dealer and I don't have any rings loose like that

I broke my previous slave, and that one didn't have anything like that either.
As for the quick release plastic tab on the hydraulic line, it did look fine until you smashed it all the way down in the holder.

BTW while you're doing this, I highly recommend an 18"+ remote bleeder for the T-56.
Without it, you'll hate life down the road if anything needs to be bled again.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I have the tick adjustable master and their speed bleeder (already installed if you look closely at the picture. Re pushing the plastic tab, I'm not understanding you--you must "smash" it down all the way to get the unit to release. If you mean the actual end of the line (rather than just the plastic release tab), it was way too loose and not secure before using the waterpumps--there was a noticeable clicking as the unit went past the "fingers". So I'm fairly confident its supposed to go in that far to fully connect. It just shouldn't be so hard to push in...

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Wondering if the new slave just isn't bad. Doesn't have any distinctive markings, don't the better brands have some stamps or something? I did flip the little plastic tab and then it seems to hold in place. It only came loose after I compressed the spring a bit. Maybe I should just cut my losses and get a new slave cylinder? I bought off a highly rated member, but that was over 9 months ago and its just been sitting in a box. Can you buy just the connection that I've got removed that is the source of my problem? Or just bite the bullet and get a whole new unit?

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, decided to play with the end piece that is sticky. Got my largest waterpumps, a socket and a little synthetic brake fluid and started working the internal piston again and again while putting a bit of brake fluid in to flush any gunk from either previous use or just sitting. After this I could push it in by hand. However, when I came back to get the camera to take this pic it was difficult again. Hmmm....