Does anyone know how to bypass the keychip security on a 98 camaro?
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Does anyone know how to bypass the keychip security on a 98 camaro?
Hey everybody, i am having a problem with the security system on my 98 z28 camaro. Sometimes when i put the key in to start my car and turn it to the start position, the security light comes on and my car wont start. I have heard that there is a way to bypass it and that it might be illegal to do or something like that. But it is my car and im tired of having to go through the security cycle 2 or 3 times before it will start. If anyone knows how to help, please let me know. P.S. Im not opposed to bypassing everything and putting in a push botton start like the old school cars.
#4
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Yes you can & if youre getting one anyway fine BUT getting a tune just to disable the VATS is the expensive way.
Never knew someone made a VATS bypass box so I read through some of it just to see & it might be inexpensive but IMO its much more complicated & more expensive than it needs to be. I have bypassed tons of these systems.
A list of all thats needed to bypass the VATS:
2 pkgs of resistors from Radio shack $2.00
1 soldering iron & some rosin core solder, $7.00 but no extra expense if you have one.
1 multimeter/ohmmeter to check the resistance of the pellet on the key. These range from $10 to $400 for a real good one, a cheap one will do but again no extra expense if you have one.
So if you already have the tools mentioned, $2.00 is all it will cost to bypass the VATS system.
Read the resistance of your ignition key with an ohmmeter by touching the leads on each side of the key pellet, make sure you have the range set to auto or from 100- 15,000 ohms which is the highest the resistor pellet made.
Once you have that reading you then make a resistor thats within + or - the pellet reading. This usually takes 2 different resistors soldered together. Example: If your key reads 1860 ohms then a resistor that reads from 1810-1910 ohms will work. Then remove the drivers trim panel below the steering wheel, theres a small 2 wire connector with 2 very small white wires going into the steering wheel area. Cut the 2 wires & solder your resistor you made with one end to each wire & your car should start every time.
The #1 failure with the VATS system is the 2 tiny wires like to break at the ignition cylinder for the key reader. Once this happens, the PASSKEY module cant read the key pellet & the car wont crank or start. Wiring the correct resistor in sends the PASSKEY module what it needs to see to allow starter & fuel enable. Its much cheaper than replacing the ignition cylinder & key & you pretty much wont have this problem again. Bad thing about doing this is now someone can break the column & steal the car easier.
A list of all thats needed to bypass the VATS:
2 pkgs of resistors from Radio shack $2.00
1 soldering iron & some rosin core solder, $7.00 but no extra expense if you have one.
1 multimeter/ohmmeter to check the resistance of the pellet on the key. These range from $10 to $400 for a real good one, a cheap one will do but again no extra expense if you have one.
So if you already have the tools mentioned, $2.00 is all it will cost to bypass the VATS system.
Read the resistance of your ignition key with an ohmmeter by touching the leads on each side of the key pellet, make sure you have the range set to auto or from 100- 15,000 ohms which is the highest the resistor pellet made.
Once you have that reading you then make a resistor thats within + or - the pellet reading. This usually takes 2 different resistors soldered together. Example: If your key reads 1860 ohms then a resistor that reads from 1810-1910 ohms will work. Then remove the drivers trim panel below the steering wheel, theres a small 2 wire connector with 2 very small white wires going into the steering wheel area. Cut the 2 wires & solder your resistor you made with one end to each wire & your car should start every time.
The #1 failure with the VATS system is the 2 tiny wires like to break at the ignition cylinder for the key reader. Once this happens, the PASSKEY module cant read the key pellet & the car wont crank or start. Wiring the correct resistor in sends the PASSKEY module what it needs to see to allow starter & fuel enable. Its much cheaper than replacing the ignition cylinder & key & you pretty much wont have this problem again. Bad thing about doing this is now someone can break the column & steal the car easier.
#5
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (100)
Yes you can & if youre getting one anyway fine BUT getting a tune just to disable the VATS is the expensive way.
Never knew someone made a VATS bypass box so I read through some of it just to see & it might be inexpensive but IMO its much more complicated & more expensive than it needs to be. I have bypassed tons of these systems.
A list of all thats needed to bypass the VATS:
2 pkgs of resistors from Radio shack $2.00
1 soldering iron & some rosin core solder, $7.00 but no extra expense if you have one.
1 multimeter/ohmmeter to check the resistance of the pellet on the key. These range from $10 to $400 for a real good one, a cheap one will do but again no extra expense if you have one.
So if you already have the tools mentioned, $2.00 is all it will cost to bypass the VATS system.
Read the resistance of your ignition key with an ohmmeter by touching the leads on each side of the key pellet, make sure you have the range set to auto or from 100- 15,000 ohms which is the highest the resistor pellet made.
Once you have that reading you then make a resistor thats within + or - the pellet reading. This usually takes 2 different resistors soldered together. Example: If your key reads 1860 ohms then a resistor that reads from 1810-1910 ohms will work. Then remove the drivers trim panel below the steering wheel, theres a small 2 wire connector with 2 very small white wires going into the steering wheel area. Cut the 2 wires & solder your resistor you made with one end to each wire & your car should start every time.
The #1 failure with the VATS system is the 2 tiny wires like to break at the ignition cylinder for the key reader. Once this happens, the PASSKEY module cant read the key pellet & the car wont crank or start. Wiring the correct resistor in sends the PASSKEY module what it needs to see to allow starter & fuel enable. Its much cheaper than replacing the ignition cylinder & key & you pretty much wont have this problem again. Bad thing about doing this is now someone can break the column & steal the car easier.
Never knew someone made a VATS bypass box so I read through some of it just to see & it might be inexpensive but IMO its much more complicated & more expensive than it needs to be. I have bypassed tons of these systems.
A list of all thats needed to bypass the VATS:
2 pkgs of resistors from Radio shack $2.00
1 soldering iron & some rosin core solder, $7.00 but no extra expense if you have one.
1 multimeter/ohmmeter to check the resistance of the pellet on the key. These range from $10 to $400 for a real good one, a cheap one will do but again no extra expense if you have one.
So if you already have the tools mentioned, $2.00 is all it will cost to bypass the VATS system.
Read the resistance of your ignition key with an ohmmeter by touching the leads on each side of the key pellet, make sure you have the range set to auto or from 100- 15,000 ohms which is the highest the resistor pellet made.
Once you have that reading you then make a resistor thats within + or - the pellet reading. This usually takes 2 different resistors soldered together. Example: If your key reads 1860 ohms then a resistor that reads from 1810-1910 ohms will work. Then remove the drivers trim panel below the steering wheel, theres a small 2 wire connector with 2 very small white wires going into the steering wheel area. Cut the 2 wires & solder your resistor you made with one end to each wire & your car should start every time.
The #1 failure with the VATS system is the 2 tiny wires like to break at the ignition cylinder for the key reader. Once this happens, the PASSKEY module cant read the key pellet & the car wont crank or start. Wiring the correct resistor in sends the PASSKEY module what it needs to see to allow starter & fuel enable. Its much cheaper than replacing the ignition cylinder & key & you pretty much wont have this problem again. Bad thing about doing this is now someone can break the column & steal the car easier.
This is true, and probably more common.
The circuit in the BCM does go bad too.
If the resistor doesn't fix the problem, you'll either have to replace your BCM, tune it out, or use the fix the in the first reply. There's a guy on eBay that sells the kit for like $14.
#7
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When I was dealing with my issues:
I tried a new key first
Next I tried a resistor and even cut off a plug from an old ignition switch, so the resistor could be unplugged if needed.
I finally tuned it out with HPTuners, but my Security light remains on.
I want to get a hold of an old BCM to look at the circuitry (before touching mine), it may be as simple as resoldering cold solder joints.
I, unlike most people, want to keep VATS working.
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#8
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Out of all the PASSKEY issues I have ran into, only 1 needed a BCM, that was in a late 90s Buick Century. All others had the infamous key reader wires broken. BCMs can & do go bad but its not often.
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When I was dealing with my issues:
I tried a new key first
Next I tried a resistor and even cut off a plug from an old ignition switch, so the resistor could be unplugged if needed.
I finally tuned it out with HPTuners, but my Security light remains on.
I want to get a hold of an old BCM to look at the circuitry (before touching mine), it may be as simple as resoldering cold solder joints.
I, unlike most people, want to keep VATS working.
I tried a new key first
Next I tried a resistor and even cut off a plug from an old ignition switch, so the resistor could be unplugged if needed.
I finally tuned it out with HPTuners, but my Security light remains on.
I want to get a hold of an old BCM to look at the circuitry (before touching mine), it may be as simple as resoldering cold solder joints.
I, unlike most people, want to keep VATS working.
#10
Yes you can & if youre getting one anyway fine BUT getting a tune just to disable the VATS is the expensive way.
Never knew someone made a VATS bypass box so I read through some of it just to see & it might be inexpensive but IMO its much more complicated & more expensive than it needs to be. I have bypassed tons of these systems.
A list of all thats needed to bypass the VATS:
2 pkgs of resistors from Radio shack $2.00
1 soldering iron & some rosin core solder, $7.00 but no extra expense if you have one.
1 multimeter/ohmmeter to check the resistance of the pellet on the key. These range from $10 to $400 for a real good one, a cheap one will do but again no extra expense if you have one.
So if you already have the tools mentioned, $2.00 is all it will cost to bypass the VATS system.
Read the resistance of your ignition key with an ohmmeter by touching the leads on each side of the key pellet, make sure you have the range set to auto or from 100- 15,000 ohms which is the highest the resistor pellet made.
Once you have that reading you then make a resistor thats within + or - the pellet reading. This usually takes 2 different resistors soldered together. Example: If your key reads 1860 ohms then a resistor that reads from 1810-1910 ohms will work. Then remove the drivers trim panel below the steering wheel, theres a small 2 wire connector with 2 very small white wires going into the steering wheel area. Cut the 2 wires & solder your resistor you made with one end to each wire & your car should start every time.
The #1 failure with the VATS system is the 2 tiny wires like to break at the ignition cylinder for the key reader. Once this happens, the PASSKEY module cant read the key pellet & the car wont crank or start. Wiring the correct resistor in sends the PASSKEY module what it needs to see to allow starter & fuel enable. Its much cheaper than replacing the ignition cylinder & key & you pretty much wont have this problem again. Bad thing about doing this is now someone can break the column & steal the car easier.
Never knew someone made a VATS bypass box so I read through some of it just to see & it might be inexpensive but IMO its much more complicated & more expensive than it needs to be. I have bypassed tons of these systems.
A list of all thats needed to bypass the VATS:
2 pkgs of resistors from Radio shack $2.00
1 soldering iron & some rosin core solder, $7.00 but no extra expense if you have one.
1 multimeter/ohmmeter to check the resistance of the pellet on the key. These range from $10 to $400 for a real good one, a cheap one will do but again no extra expense if you have one.
So if you already have the tools mentioned, $2.00 is all it will cost to bypass the VATS system.
Read the resistance of your ignition key with an ohmmeter by touching the leads on each side of the key pellet, make sure you have the range set to auto or from 100- 15,000 ohms which is the highest the resistor pellet made.
Once you have that reading you then make a resistor thats within + or - the pellet reading. This usually takes 2 different resistors soldered together. Example: If your key reads 1860 ohms then a resistor that reads from 1810-1910 ohms will work. Then remove the drivers trim panel below the steering wheel, theres a small 2 wire connector with 2 very small white wires going into the steering wheel area. Cut the 2 wires & solder your resistor you made with one end to each wire & your car should start every time.
The #1 failure with the VATS system is the 2 tiny wires like to break at the ignition cylinder for the key reader. Once this happens, the PASSKEY module cant read the key pellet & the car wont crank or start. Wiring the correct resistor in sends the PASSKEY module what it needs to see to allow starter & fuel enable. Its much cheaper than replacing the ignition cylinder & key & you pretty much wont have this problem again. Bad thing about doing this is now someone can break the column & steal the car easier.
#11
Camaro ignition security chip key system
Hey everybody, i am having a problem with the security system on my 98 z28 camaro. Sometimes when i put the key in to start my car and turn it to the start position, the security light comes on and my car wont start. I have heard that there is a way to bypass it and that it might be illegal to do or something like that. But it is my car and im tired of having to go through the security cycle 2 or 3 times before it will start. If anyone knows how to help, please let me know. P.S. Im not opposed to bypassing everything and putting in a push botton start like the old school cars.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 12-10-2020 at 08:50 AM. Reason: Fixed quote code
#12
TECH Fanatic
Ok, I will ask a related question. My Security light on the dash came on about 2 years ago for no particular reason that I can find. No problem with starting the car, no problem with the keys, or remotes at all or any other issues. The light is just on and everything works just fine.
Any idea why this would happen? I fixed it with the "black electric tape" over the light mod, but if it is something simple I would really like to turn that light off.
Any idea why this would happen? I fixed it with the "black electric tape" over the light mod, but if it is something simple I would really like to turn that light off.
#13
TECH Fanatic
Forgot to mention, the car came with 2 keys and fobs. I have been using the same set for about 15 years and the other, spare key and fob has been hanging on the key rack in the kitchen all that time. It doesn't matter which key I use, light is still on. And no starting issues at all.
No a big deal just an annoyance.
No a big deal just an annoyance.
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Ok, I will ask a related question. My Security light on the dash came on about 2 years ago for no particular reason that I can find. No problem with starting the car, no problem with the keys, or remotes at all or any other issues. The light is just on and everything works just fine.
Any idea why this would happen? I fixed it with the "black electric tape" over the light mod, but if it is something simple I would really like to turn that light off.
Any idea why this would happen? I fixed it with the "black electric tape" over the light mod, but if it is something simple I would really like to turn that light off.
Forgot to mention, the car came with 2 keys and fobs. I have been using the same set for about 15 years and the other, spare key and fob has been hanging on the key rack in the kitchen all that time. It doesn't matter which key I use, light is still on. And no starting issues at all.
No a big deal just an annoyance.
No a big deal just an annoyance.
Anyway, just something to keep in the back of your mind in case you start having more serious VATS issues after any sort of power interruption.
#15
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I seem to recall someone else reporting a similar issue (security light on for extended time frame, but no problems with starting), but then things changed immediately after power was disconnected for a battery swap. Somehow, the power interruption apparently seemed to reset or "shock" the system into recognizing the fact that there was a problem, and then starting the car suddenly became an issue (as with the typical VATS related issues). This was a while back, I don't remember when I read this.
Anyway, just something to keep in the back of your mind in case you start having more serious VATS issues after any sort of power interruption.
Anyway, just something to keep in the back of your mind in case you start having more serious VATS issues after any sort of power interruption.
It's safe to assume that the problem is not with the key since the second key produces the same result. The first thing to try is to clean the contacts inside the ignition cylinder. You can do that with spray electrical contact cleaner and scrubbing with a pipe cleaner. If that doesn't fix the problem then a VATS bypass is probably your next best option. If you leave it the way it is, you could risk being stuck unable to start your car at some point in the future.
#16
TECH Fanatic
Hmmm. Thanks for the info. I think that I will try to clean the ignition cylinder, but I may wait until spring, it is the car I drive every day.
I did replace the battery last spring to a deep cycle because my dash cam was draining the previous one. Disconnecting the battery didn't cause any issues. Sounds like an issue just waiting for the wrong time to happen.
So the light has been lit for a long time. Does that mean that the VATS is continuing to detect a problem? And if the source of the problem is eliminated the light will go out?
I did replace the battery last spring to a deep cycle because my dash cam was draining the previous one. Disconnecting the battery didn't cause any issues. Sounds like an issue just waiting for the wrong time to happen.
So the light has been lit for a long time. Does that mean that the VATS is continuing to detect a problem? And if the source of the problem is eliminated the light will go out?
#17
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Yes, VATS is still reading a problem but not doing anything about it (other than illuminating the light) because it's already been flagged as a system fault. It might never change that status but there have been cases where it has "reset" after a power interruption and started treating it as a new problem.
Grime can build up on the two contacts inside the cylinder from years of sliding the ignition key in and out. That grime can cause enough of a change in the resistance read from the key pellet to put it out of acceptable range and cause a fault. You cannot cause any damage or problem by cleaning the contacts inside the ignition cylinder as long as you use the right materials. I would not wait too long just on the off chance that it gets temperamental and decides not to let you start the car. We're talking about five minutes with a spray can and pipe cleaner.
Grime can build up on the two contacts inside the cylinder from years of sliding the ignition key in and out. That grime can cause enough of a change in the resistance read from the key pellet to put it out of acceptable range and cause a fault. You cannot cause any damage or problem by cleaning the contacts inside the ignition cylinder as long as you use the right materials. I would not wait too long just on the off chance that it gets temperamental and decides not to let you start the car. We're talking about five minutes with a spray can and pipe cleaner.
#18
Teching In
Bcm bypass instructions in neef
Hey everybody, i am having a problem with the security system on my 98 z28 camaro. Sometimes when i put the key in to start my car and turn it to the start position, the security light comes on and my car wont start. I have heard that there is a way to bypass it and that it might be illegal to do or something like that. But it is my car and im tired of having to go through the security cycle 2 or 3 times before it will start. If anyone knows how to help, please let me know. P.S. Im not opposed to bypassing everything and putting in a push botton start like the old school cars.
#19
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If you're looking to bypass the Vehicle Anti Theft System (VATS) then the instructions are in post #4 near the top of this thread. There are a couple of minor inaccuracies there but the method will work... just make sure to get a total resistance within 10% of one of the 14 original values used that matches your BCM/key.
There are bypass kits on the market if you don't want to build your own with resistors. They run around $50 - $100. Whatever you do, DO NOT buy the New Rockies $250 kit - it's nothing special and a complete ripoff at that price.
Also, there are some who say you can do it easily by just bending the resistor legs and shoving it into the back of the connector. Don't do that either... that's just a lazy, ghetto way to do it that is sure to fail down the road. If you're going to do it yourself then do it right - solder or use butt connectors and insulate properly (electrical tape is sufficient).
There are bypass kits on the market if you don't want to build your own with resistors. They run around $50 - $100. Whatever you do, DO NOT buy the New Rockies $250 kit - it's nothing special and a complete ripoff at that price.
Also, there are some who say you can do it easily by just bending the resistor legs and shoving it into the back of the connector. Don't do that either... that's just a lazy, ghetto way to do it that is sure to fail down the road. If you're going to do it yourself then do it right - solder or use butt connectors and insulate properly (electrical tape is sufficient).