chitown21y

iTrader: (6)

I just bought my V a short while ago and it is making a rattle noise from the front suspension when it hits bumps. I was thinking that it may be the sway bar end links because they are stock and its lowered with eibach's and they are cut a little. I have read how these can break if they are to long when lowered?

Also what else should I check?

Thanks Dave!

RedHotG8

iTrader: (1)

Also check the swaybar mounting bushings & clamps, tie rods, upper/lower control arms, and strut mounts.

chitown21y

iTrader: (6)

Ya I need to check it all but does anyone know if z06 swaybar end links are needed on a lowered V?

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

The Z06 endlinks are about an inch shorter, iirc, so yeah they should work on a lowered vehicle. Don't buy them from the dealer and instead buy some moog from somewhere like www.rockauto.com (search for a 5% off coupon code too). You can get them cheaper there than people even selling them used and moog > oem stuff [I bought some moog for mine, although stock and they are beefier and just better quality-looking than the stuff that came on the car]. They also sell some chinese crap too, so stick with the good stuff and Moog is one of the last 'good' manufacturers out there and still made in USA.

Probably doesn't hurt to replace the rubber bushings on the swaybar brackets (that attach to 'frame'), as they crack and allow slop. Those unfortunately you may need to get from dealer, but they are pretty cheap, at around $10-12, iirc...You can get some universal greasable polyurethane from energy suspension, but our swaybar is a weird size, so you either need to get the smaller ones (25 mm) and 'open' the hole to 26.6 mm, or get the 27 mm and use some sort of sleeve to make up the 0.4 mm. That is what I plan on doing at least.

Big Bu Bu

iTrader: (4)

Ditto on the sway bar links. Lowered cars will eat them. Try the Powergrids and pay the extra bucks for the adjust ability. Getting the correct length will save you money and trouble in the long run. Ask me how I know this

chitown21y

iTrader: (6)

Well looks like the moog ones from rock auto will do for now. Cant spend 150 on the adjustable ones but they look great!

Thanks for the help guys.

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

You'll be happy with the Moogs and I've been pleased with rock auto (if you ever get anything else in future)...I am not 100% which years Z06 work (C5 or C6), so double check with searching...

Forgot to mention, the Z06 endlinks have a slightly larger stud (M12 vs M10 iirc), so you may need to drill out your holes a little. No big deal, but something to be prepared for if you wonder why they don't go thru the holes

chitown21y

iTrader: (6)

Sounds good thanks for the advise. How is the best way to test for bad tie rod ends? I am thinking that it may be time for those also?

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Jack the wheel up off the ground and grab the tire at 9 and 3 o'clock and give it a good shake back and forth. If you feel play or can see play in the tie rod, then it needs to be replaced. You can try this with the suspension loaded (jack under control arm) and unloaded (jack under frame).

McCall

Bumping an older thread because I am experiencing a similar issue. '05 with 97k miles that is new to me. I, too, am getting a pretty good front end and rear rattle when going over bumps and potholes, etc. Had the car up in the air and while holding the tire, I get up and down movement on both the left front and right rear. Nothing side to side so the steering pieces seem ok. Suspension is bone stock and the sway bar end links are new.

So what are the common failure points? With the up and down movement, I'm thinking ball joint. Now is it the upper or lower that goes bad on the front? What about the rear? How about control arm bushings, which ones are the best ones to check for failure first?

The plan is to do a major refresh on the suspension with new shocks and some lowering springs(MM rear shock kit ordered). Should I just get Moog ball joints or is it worth it to step up and get new loaded control arms?

Thanks in advance

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

My shocks are shot and they are currently causing my rattle. Just an fyi

Mrs.LS6

I had a rattle when I bought my car. Ended up being the sway bar bushings. I now have the full revshift poly bushing kit on my car. No more rattle and the car feels wayyyyy better.

rand49er

Yeah, I'd do this stuff one at a time 'cause it's probably one thing ... some stupid, simple one thing.

McCall

Great ideas guys thanks. The only issue is that those fixes don't explain the up and down rocking I get with the wheel. Seeing that the front lower ball joint seems to be the only item readily available, I'll go ahead and replace those.

Any thoughts about the rear?

05txctsv

iTrader: (2)

You should also check your dust shields too. mine sounded like a set of keys hanging on the front of my car.

McCall

Will do as well. Thanks

isis

iTrader: (1)

They don't make a swaybar bushing set do they? I think that would sell.