NoHope

Security idiot light came on in my car, nothing has changed, I don't know what's triggered it or how to turn it off. Anyone have any ideas?

green28

iTrader: (8)

Go to Auto Zone, Advanced Auto, or somewhere that will let you put a scanner on it for free.

green28

iTrader: (8)

I totally misread that and missed the "security part" and thought you meant SES light when I saw idiot light. But throwing a scanner on it still might be the first thing to try.

NoHope

I've read that only the dealership has the machine that can read the codes for the security light. Does anyone have an idea of what it might be? So far the car still starts and runs fine.

HumanNipple

iTrader: (2)

I too have the same problem but haven't fixed it. In some instances the light can prevent you from starting your car. It's related to VATS, moreover a wire tends to get pinched in the key cylinder.

Here's one about cylinder replacement

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...ity-light.html

below is one about bypassing VATs

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/how-byp...ur-vats-61262/

WS6_Veteran

iTrader: (6)

My v6 firebird did the same thing and sometimes it would lock the ignition switch on me and I couldn't start the car until I unplugged the battery for 5 minutes. Come to find out it was my key. The key has a little chip on it for the vats. Try getting the dealer to grind you a new key and if that doesn't work do a vats bypass.

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

Is the light solid or blinking? Mine was blinking for a few years then the car would not start intermittently.The link perviously stated was me. Do the vats bypass and see if the light goes out. I am willing to bet you it will. Give it a try and let us know how it works out.

nomasterase

iTrader: (4)

Mine was that way when i bought it i measured the pellet resistance and went to radio shack. Bought the equivalent resistors and bypassed the key switch under the dash. Thing that gave me trouble is that light once set will not turn off by disconnecting the battery. Two radio fuses on the side of the dash that will kill it

NoHope

Can anything bad happen if I just don't pay attention to it? The light isn't blinking. I've tried the thing where you lock yourself inside your car, turn it off and then try to open the locks to see if it's a bad lock sensor. I'm surprised disconnecting the battery doesn't reset it. If all else fails I'll try the Vats bypass, but it seems kinda technical.

HumanNipple

iTrader: (2)

To be completely honest i've had mine on for I think 2.5 maybe 3 years? It hasn't done anything to me (it does to some people.) You can choose your battles, the light is annoying but for alot of people it does nothing. For some people it makes your vehicle completely inoperable. I for one am waiting for the day when there is an important job opportunity and the car won't start.

*disconnecting the battery will do nothing, it's not related to the emissions system that is reset by the battery.

guy7bmwm83

iTrader: (5)

My light had never turned on before, then all of a sudden after changing out the rear axle tube bearings, the light came on and the car never started. I bypassed the whole system at the body control module with a kit I bought online.

NoHope

Damn, I guess I need to do that bypass mod then. But does that mean the security system will be null and void afterwards?

DaytonaBlues

that security light means your microchip in your key is worn out. the ignition key on our cars has that dumb little black chip in it and the car will not start if you tried to use a normal gm cut key. i learned this the hard way by ignoring the security light only to find out later i needed to go to the dealer and get reamed for a new coded key. its a lot of money but it will keep you from ending up stuck.
all you have to do is buy a new key WITH THE BLACK CHIP IN THE CENTER, gotta hit the dealer for it though.

NoHope

No it doesn't. I have two sets of keys, both with that security chip in the center. I have started the car with both sets of keys, problem still persists.

DaytonaBlues

yea but where did you get that second ignition key? and when? unless you had that spare key JUST made OR that second one is just a "valet" key. did you get the second key made or did it come with the car? cause making a copy of those ignition keys are EXPENSIVE. try using a generic gm key without that chip and see what happens. sometimes that "tricks" the car into resetting itself once you start the car with the correct key after trying one that doesnt have that chip. not to sound like an *** but i had the EXACT same problem. security light came on for no reason one day, drove car like that for about a year. then going to work car would even allow me to turn the key. later found out at the dealer, being towed because the steering wheel was locked too, that it was just the chip had worn out and lost its ability to tell the vats system that it is the correct key.
sometimes getting that key wet will cause the cars security system to not recognize the key and LOCK the tumbler asssembly. its just a system a lot of GM cars had that prevented someone from usuing a regular gm key to start the car and/or just breaking in and trying to start the car with the old screw driver, leatherman, awl trick. (dont ask how i know)

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Mine came on 5 or 6 years ago while going down the road and has stayed on ever since. I have not had one issue with starting or VATS or anything else - and I know what that's all about, as each of my sons' V6 cars have had that issue.

I've heard that if it comes on while the car is running and doesn't blink, it won't generate the VATS issue. I can't verify that, just that for me the only issue has been the light being on.

I ignore it and it ignores me. Works like a charm.

GMRL

Mine came on once, started just fine. I removed the steering wheel, respliced the wire that was cut on the key cylinder that reads the pellet on the key. No more light.

NoHope

When I purchased the car from a dealership in 2010 it came with 1 ignition key, one door key, and a key phob. I immediately had a spare key made at the dealership in Pensacola Florida, between the ignition key and the door key my total was slightly over $60, they told me it costs more than the typical key because of the computer chip imbedded in the center of the key. I've had no issues with either key.

However, only having one key phob, whenever I use my spare set and unlock the door with the key, the alarm will go off until I put the key in the ignition and turn on the battery. Otherwise, no issues, and it is a genuine replacement key.

guy7bmwm83

iTrader: (5)

I believe thats a feature that can be programmed to be on or off. It explains it in the GM service manual. There are many things you can customize.

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

Do the vat's resistor mod first. What happens is the wires on the ignition switch to the vats bcm connector break or become intermittent in the stearing colum . You can get a million sets of keys and it will not work.Try your extra key first. When you unhook the connector for the vats and put a resistor in place (of the same value as the black key pellet/resistor you are bypassing the setup on that key. When I did that my light went out and my car started everytime.The alarm door system works fine still.
The other fix is to replace the ignition switch assembly to get the key setup( vats )to work again.Then you have to get keys made from the key
the new switch comes with and the proper resistance(pellet) from the dealer.