Blue_LS4

hey guys new to this form, let me do a short introduction my name is eduardo live in Ligonier IN, Have a blue 06 grand prix gxp completely stock.
The problem: Recently my car has been dying on me. I had taken it to auto zone to test the battery and the had said that it was the alternator so i had changed it and it worked fine for 2 days then it started dying on me again. After that i had noticed that that in the dic it said Battery charging failure something like that then it went to battery saver active. I had change the battery that same day and it worked for 2 days now its doing it again idk what it is i don't have a stereo system idk what is draining my battery HELP!!

Sadden

These cars have that problem , nothing we can confirm fixes the problem.
Swap the battery to an optima redtop , that should help.

99slpws6

yellow top is way better imo their is a few members on here that ran into issues with the red top

Blue_LS4

mmm but the thing is that i already replaced the battery, and once installed I can't return it

Brian396

iTrader: (3)

You should be fine. Next time it happens check your voltage on the dic. I bet it's a touch high. If so don't worry about it.

Blue_LS4

after one whole day of not turning it on i turned it on with out jumping cables, In the DIC it had 10.80-10.90 volts on the battery, and as soon as i turned it on the Battery server turned on as well

Brian396

iTrader: (3)

Well crap I'm wrong. You got problems. I'd either disconect the battery and charge it, then leave it disconnected and see if it holds a charge. Or take it back to Autozone and have them test there alternator and battery.

LS1 Racing

iTrader: (15)

Check your grounds. There's a thread on GMLS4.com that explains all the places you need to check, as it has a huge impact on why these batteries die.

hazards280

I've gotten brand new alternators that were duds. Just saying

RedArmy87

I had a similar issue with mine replacing the battery and everything still have the battery saver mode come up on the dic. It ended up the the BCM was faulty dealership replaced it under warranty and haven't had any issues since. hope this is some what helpfull

Blue_LS4

Hey guys thanx for the tips recently i had taken it to my local Pontiac and the could not find nothing wrong with it. My battery volts keeps getting worse they are now at 8-9 volts. Oh what is the BCM?

ryanisl33t

iTrader: (1)

Body control module. Try pulling fuses of things you suspect of draining the battery. Or take the battery out over the weekend, charge it and see if it holds a charge to rule out a bad battery.

blkchevyz

did you get this figured out? mine just started doing it today. already have a new battery and alternator. when i checked the charging system its in the mid 13s so its charging fine.

saltybreadstick

ok so im gonna copy and post a post i made on grandprixforums.net

1st things first....so i have in my position finally the new fuse box cover and the battery current sensor.
Starting with the battery current sensor, i talked with the master tech at GM when i picked it all up today and they explained to me that the stock sensor on my car (GM part #10306471) was a known issue with the cars that it was installed in from 2005 to very first off the line 2007s. Then it was superseded by GM part #13505369 at that point which is supposed to fix the issues. continuing my talk with him the purpose of said sensor is to help regulate the power in the car from the alternator and also provides the voltage the the Drivers information center shows. (Didn't ask how it works didnt really care lol). Also when i told him that sometimes when i have the alternator tested when the cars electrical is acting weird the regulator in the alternator shows being bad and other times it didn't, well guess what....this stupid piece of crap sensor can make it appear so to the simple testers that it is a bad alternator...go freaking figure. well hopefully this fixes my problems when i stick it in tomorrow!!

and just to through it out there....it did fix my battery saver mode active.

before replacing that i rebuilt alternator....twice
replaced battery with optima red top 1000 CCAs
tried new wiring
and then replaced that sensor. no more problems...my voltage stays more steady and all around better

GXP25

iTrader: (3)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-perfo...problem-3.html

blkchevyz

i did replace that sensor and a week later i started getting this message. i guess i could of got a bad one.

Ill_Born_ss

It is possible to get a bad one... I just went thru 3 MAP sensors to get one that was reading as per the book.
You did get the sensor on there with the tail in the right direction (away from the terminal) and all wires to the terminal are inside the sensor ring. Battery terminals are tight. Check the connector at the alternator there is a bulletin on that connector/wires into that connector being loose/broken.
The battery voltage is good or does it need to be trickle charged for 24 hrs to rebuild the resistance. Also those Red Tops require a special procedure to fully charge. You must use a regular car battery connected to the RedTop and then put the charger on the regular battery, leaving that assembly connected for the 24hrs.
Here is a basic write-up on our EPM (electrical power management)
http://www.gmls4.com/index.php?topic=2442.0
and remember a low voltage situation even once will cause a "low voltage" code to be stored in every module on the car... so if you know someone with a tech2 or a macnav or a solstice get them to read all modules and then clear all. This alone could be your problem.

blkchevyz

i did get it facing the right direction, the part that sticks out is facing away from the battery. battery voltage is good as well been around 13.3-13.6 range since i changed the sensor.

i might swap the old sensor back on just to see if this goes away.

i do have a friend with a tech2 that i've been meaning to go see to clear the check vehicle message. just havent done it yet.

GXP25

iTrader: (3)

Ill_Born_ss is right. The code will still be stored until it is cleared properly. And yes, the code will continue to show up if the two voltages differ by more than 2 volts for more than 10 seconds.

The code that was set in my vehicle was B1390 (service vehicle soon). I am still waiting on my replacement sensor (5V variant).

GXP25

iTrader: (3)

My sensor provides a good reading after is gets going. 14 volt range.

I believe the problem lies when it starts up. It'll definitely sit in the 11.8, 11.9, 12 range for more than 10 seconds (hence the B1390 code). I am sure this voltage doesn't match the more precise internal meter which is probably getting the correct voltage reading from the battery.

This also accounted for my rear LED taillights hyperflashing as their resistors (15 ohms) provided too low of a current value for the vehicle. The vehicle would then think that the bulb was out. Swapping over to 7 ohm resistors in the rear solved this issue. ~0.78 A versus ~1.68 A at startup. It also makes sense that I never had front LED bulb issues since those resistors are of the small, gold 6 ohm variant.