Any bad things about running 160* degree t-stat?
10-14-2005, 08:11 AM
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Any bad things about running 160* degree t-stat? Just like the title says, are there any disadvantage to running a 160 degree thermostat? Does it throw off any sensors? I have heard the wives tale that a cold thermostat will throw O2 sensor codes.
10-14-2005, 08:38 AM
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10-14-2005, 09:06 AM
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Very interesting article TAquickness.
I have heard that a 180 thermostat is a good compromise on todays cars. Not sure if this is true. I am wondering is a stock 195 thermostat with a large radiator and the fans turned down might be best.
Anybody know if there is a 180 t-stat available for LS1?
I have heard that a 180 thermostat is a good compromise on todays cars. Not sure if this is true. I am wondering is a stock 195 thermostat with a large radiator and the fans turned down might be best.
Anybody know if there is a 180 t-stat available for LS1?
10-14-2005, 11:11 AM
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The fact of the matter is, if your tuner is doing his job correctly he will have as much timing as makes power in the car befor it detonates. The cooler Stat will allow him, most of the time to give it more lead time and usually make some more power. I think a 160 Stat is a very GOOD decision, if you like making power that is.. and yes they usually run around 175-180 in most cars unless it is really cold outside.
-Bryan
-Bryan
10-14-2005, 11:11 AM
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I have a 160 in my car, coolant temps are generally between 180 and 190 ... so no probs w/the 160
I run a 160 in my GTP too... going to be a cold winter heh
I run a 160 in my GTP too... going to be a cold winter heh
10-14-2005, 11:20 AM
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Thanks for the input Bryan.
Horist, is your cooling system factory except for the 160 t-stat?
I think I migh swap a 160 in mine. I guess if it runs too cold for my taste (doesnt seem likely based on the feedback here) I could mess with the fans to make it run near 180.
Horist, is your cooling system factory except for the 160 t-stat?
I think I migh swap a 160 in mine. I guess if it runs too cold for my taste (doesnt seem likely based on the feedback here) I could mess with the fans to make it run near 180.
10-14-2005, 11:28 AM
#16
Originally Posted by T/A rocker
And that would be ????
Lingenfelter would say what what Race-Prep (Bryan) has said. The lowered operating temps help with knock in higher compression engines.
10-14-2005, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by bowtieman81
Horist, is your cooling system factory except for the 160 t-stat?
Yup, factory cooling fans and radiator... I found that if I put my FTRA in temps rose a bit since the radiator was blocked so much...
10-14-2005, 02:06 PM
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The only drawback to the 160 'stat that I've found,
is not the thermostat's fault per se. It's that trying
to hold a lower coolant temp, exposes the marginality
of the cooling system - one-core radiator, wimpy
little electric fans. At a lower coolant temp your
radiator is less effective as shedding heat to the air.
Run the A/C on 120F pavement and you will not,
nohow, see anything like the ECT you think you
bought. Even if the fans are running flat out.
The point of using the cooler 'stat is to be able to
run leaner, run more spark, make more power from
the motor. But if you can't hold the temp range
you expect, your tune gets to pinging at the
environmental extremes. So you might have to
work on the ECT spark adder, if you want to tune
it up tight against what 177F ECT can normally
stand and still not drive yourself all the way to
Low Octane Table Land when things get hot.
My long term solution is a LT1 radiator and going
to radiator tank temp thermostatic fan control
(so as to give the 'stat some headroom and thus
authority).
is not the thermostat's fault per se. It's that trying
to hold a lower coolant temp, exposes the marginality
of the cooling system - one-core radiator, wimpy
little electric fans. At a lower coolant temp your
radiator is less effective as shedding heat to the air.
Run the A/C on 120F pavement and you will not,
nohow, see anything like the ECT you think you
bought. Even if the fans are running flat out.
The point of using the cooler 'stat is to be able to
run leaner, run more spark, make more power from
the motor. But if you can't hold the temp range
you expect, your tune gets to pinging at the
environmental extremes. So you might have to
work on the ECT spark adder, if you want to tune
it up tight against what 177F ECT can normally
stand and still not drive yourself all the way to
Low Octane Table Land when things get hot.
My long term solution is a LT1 radiator and going
to radiator tank temp thermostatic fan control
(so as to give the 'stat some headroom and thus
authority).
10-14-2005, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
The only drawback to the 160 'stat that I've found,
is not the thermostat's fault per se. It's that trying
to hold a lower coolant temp, exposes the marginality
of the cooling system - one-core radiator, wimpy
little electric fans. At a lower coolant temp your
radiator is less effective as shedding heat to the air.
Run the A/C on 120F pavement and you will not,
nohow, see anything like the ECT you think you
bought. Even if the fans are running flat out.
The point of using the cooler 'stat is to be able to
run leaner, run more spark, make more power from
the motor. But if you can't hold the temp range
you expect, your tune gets to pinging at the
environmental extremes. So you might have to
work on the ECT spark adder, if you want to tune
it up tight against what 177F ECT can normally
stand and still not drive yourself all the way to
Low Octane Table Land when things get hot.
My long term solution is a LT1 radiator and going
to radiator tank temp thermostatic fan control
(so as to give the 'stat some headroom and thus
authority).
is not the thermostat's fault per se. It's that trying
to hold a lower coolant temp, exposes the marginality
of the cooling system - one-core radiator, wimpy
little electric fans. At a lower coolant temp your
radiator is less effective as shedding heat to the air.
Run the A/C on 120F pavement and you will not,
nohow, see anything like the ECT you think you
bought. Even if the fans are running flat out.
The point of using the cooler 'stat is to be able to
run leaner, run more spark, make more power from
the motor. But if you can't hold the temp range
you expect, your tune gets to pinging at the
environmental extremes. So you might have to
work on the ECT spark adder, if you want to tune
it up tight against what 177F ECT can normally
stand and still not drive yourself all the way to
Low Octane Table Land when things get hot.
My long term solution is a LT1 radiator and going
to radiator tank temp thermostatic fan control
(so as to give the 'stat some headroom and thus
authority).
10-14-2005, 03:25 PM
#20
The only disavantage i've had is freezing my *** off in the winter. It warms up to temp with no problem but at such a low temp the heat output still suffers. Basically just be prepared to leave the heater on high if you live in a cold climate during the winter.
Tuning wise it won't help performance unless you lower the cooling fan on/off temp settings. It will not affect closed loop, our cars enter at 147*
Tuning wise it won't help performance unless you lower the cooling fan on/off temp settings. It will not affect closed loop, our cars enter at 147*
