SLP 21mm rear sway bar
01-14-2003, 04:35 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Augusta,GA
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SLP 21mm rear sway bar I'm thinking about getting the SLP 21mm rear sway bar for my 02 Camaro SS. Does anyone have instructions on how to install one? Is it something a novice can do or would I be better off taking it to a shop and having it installed?
01-15-2003, 07:55 AM
#2
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Batlimore, Maryland
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: SLP 21mm rear sway bar What other mods do you have on your car? By just changing the back swaybar you could be setting yourself up for some major oversteer.
01-15-2003, 09:01 AM
#4
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Windermere / Orlando, FL
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: SLP 21mm rear sway bar just re-read the website, and found out that the 21mm rear sway bar is the same from the 1LE suspension option. so im guessing this has to be better than my stock 19mm.
01-15-2003, 09:23 AM
#5
Re: SLP 21mm rear sway bar Instead of going with SLP, I would look to a company who specializes in suspension. Not that any of SLPs products are bad, but there are better products out there for the money and performance. G2 has a set of front + rear oversized sway bars. I think the front swaybar is somewhere around 32.5mm and the rear 21.5mm. You would benefit much more buying front + rear swaybars and they can be found in a bunch of different packages at a lot of our sponsers sites. I am going with G2 lowering springs, front and rear swaybars from G2 or possibly BMR and upgraded Koni double adjustable shocks.
I'm no expert but all I'm saying is do a little research and look around before you throw down your cash.
I'm no expert but all I'm saying is do a little research and look around before you throw down your cash.
Trending Topics
01-15-2003, 05:26 PM
#8
Re: SLP 21mm rear sway bar With sway bars there are a few things to remember:
1.If 2 bars are exactly the same shape (usually, if they fit the same car, they will be very similar, but not perfectly matched) and the same diameter steel, the rate will be virtually identical. The mathmatical "constant" for the tension of steel is just that....constant (same size and shape + same material=same "bar rate"). If the bars are the same diameter and from a reputable manufacturer (and barring the use of any "wonder alloys"...they will work almost identically...save $$$, buy the cheaper one)
2.Small changes in diameter can equal huge changes in stiffness (as I remember, without getting out my calculator, taking a rear F-body sway bar from 7/8's inch to 1 inch is almost a 30 percent increase in stiffness). Check out what you want to do with the car and talk to those who have tried it.
3.Remember, if you run stiffer rear springs (most lowering springs are somewhat, to a whole lot stiffer) will change the handling "balance" of the car (what works on a stock car, may work with lowering spring brand "X" but not lowering spring brand "Y").
4.Running extremely large sway bars can actually unload the inside tire in a hard corner and make it much harder to put power to the ground (accelerate out of a corner), or cause the ABS to engage (while braking in a hard corner, or trail braking into one) and make the car extremely difficult to drive at the limit.
5.Adding sway bar also adds "spring rate" at the wheel and may require a shock with more aggressive damping characteristics (Koni Double Adjustables or revalved Bilstiens, among others).
This is just a list of things to consider when changing sway bars. Due to the unloading of the rear tire in a hard corner, most autocrossers (myself included) prefer to try to tune the car with a stiffer set of rear springs and by tuning the shocks (in an effort to keep weight on the inside rear tire when braking into a corner). I am currently planning to run stock bars with race rubber and a prepped suspension (alignment and all) for autocross next year (this may change after I get seat time with the new setup).
I'm not sure that anyone really cares about all of this information. I guess the racers and track days guys will, but it may not be so much of a factor on the street. For what it's worth.....Good luck.
1.If 2 bars are exactly the same shape (usually, if they fit the same car, they will be very similar, but not perfectly matched) and the same diameter steel, the rate will be virtually identical. The mathmatical "constant" for the tension of steel is just that....constant (same size and shape + same material=same "bar rate"). If the bars are the same diameter and from a reputable manufacturer (and barring the use of any "wonder alloys"...they will work almost identically...save $$$, buy the cheaper one)
2.Small changes in diameter can equal huge changes in stiffness (as I remember, without getting out my calculator, taking a rear F-body sway bar from 7/8's inch to 1 inch is almost a 30 percent increase in stiffness). Check out what you want to do with the car and talk to those who have tried it.
3.Remember, if you run stiffer rear springs (most lowering springs are somewhat, to a whole lot stiffer) will change the handling "balance" of the car (what works on a stock car, may work with lowering spring brand "X" but not lowering spring brand "Y").
4.Running extremely large sway bars can actually unload the inside tire in a hard corner and make it much harder to put power to the ground (accelerate out of a corner), or cause the ABS to engage (while braking in a hard corner, or trail braking into one) and make the car extremely difficult to drive at the limit.
5.Adding sway bar also adds "spring rate" at the wheel and may require a shock with more aggressive damping characteristics (Koni Double Adjustables or revalved Bilstiens, among others).
This is just a list of things to consider when changing sway bars. Due to the unloading of the rear tire in a hard corner, most autocrossers (myself included) prefer to try to tune the car with a stiffer set of rear springs and by tuning the shocks (in an effort to keep weight on the inside rear tire when braking into a corner). I am currently planning to run stock bars with race rubber and a prepped suspension (alignment and all) for autocross next year (this may change after I get seat time with the new setup).
I'm not sure that anyone really cares about all of this information. I guess the racers and track days guys will, but it may not be so much of a factor on the street. For what it's worth.....Good luck.
01-19-2003, 01:21 PM
#9
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Murrells Inlet, SC
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: SLP 21mm rear sway bar I just replaced my factory sways with Suspension Techniques sways. I went from the 32mm front sway to a 35mm front and the 19mm sway to a 25mm sway. The difference is so unbelievable and for the cost i say well worth it. Yes the tail end is still very happy, but it is flat and much easier to control. On a track where the surfaces are smooth, i can imagine the car being much better in and out of the corners.
