Rockland std gear extension housing bushing
Rockland std gear extension housing bushing Does anyone have any experience with this bushing? Easy install? Significant difference over stock? Couldn't find it on their website but remember someone on hear talking about it. It's a "no walk" bronze silicone bushing. Thanks
If the old one is still in there, the tail housing will need to come off to knock it out. I've removed the tailhousing a few times with the tranny in the car to fix a reverse problem...
We had a car one time that came in because of a vibration and the factory bushing had worked completely out. We cut off an old slip yoke and welded a ring around it (an old bearing race that fit snug over the yoke) to knock a new bushing in with while the tailhousing was still on the tranny, in the car.
To the OP, I have a couple of these things sitting on the shelf right now. They are about twice as wide as the original bushing.
We had a car one time that came in because of a vibration and the factory bushing had worked completely out. We cut off an old slip yoke and welded a ring around it (an old bearing race that fit snug over the yoke) to knock a new bushing in with while the tailhousing was still on the tranny, in the car.
To the OP, I have a couple of these things sitting on the shelf right now. They are about twice as wide as the original bushing.
Yeah the TH350 is too big and once its installed , the bushing gets crushed . I'll have to give Rockland a call and get my cost on them . I didn't know they had anything out . I've been doing way more T5's as of the past few months compared to T56s .
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I've only done a few t5, but I've taken a lot appart LOL. I think just about every one I've looked at had a busted 3rd gear and cluster. I purchased a fox body once with a broke 3rd gear. I installed a used tranny and broke 3rd in it on the way to the track LOL.
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Yeah T5's have some what of a cult following in the Mustang world and can take a beating but 3rd gear is usually the first thing to bust on them . The TKO is a lot stronger but you'd be surprised how many people would prefer to invest some real money into a T5 before going with a Tremec . Nothing shifts quite as nice as a well built T5 .
I forgot to take a picture 
It is about 2x as wide as the stock bushing. It installs a little harder than the stock one due to it being twice as wide. Installing the driveshaft was a real treat. It pounded in very very hard but after a few miles it broke in and runs great now!! It also fixed my vibration problem!
It also had to be staked in.
It is about 2x as wide as the stock bushing. It installs a little harder than the stock one due to it being twice as wide. Installing the driveshaft was a real treat. It pounded in very very hard but after a few miles it broke in and runs great now!! It also fixed my vibration problem!
It also had to be staked in.
I forgot to take a picture
It is about 2x as wide as the stock bushing. It installs a little harder than the stock one due to it being twice as wide. Installing the driveshaft was a real treat. It pounded in very very hard but after a few miles it broke in and runs great now!! It also fixed my vibration problem!
It also had to be staked in.
It is about 2x as wide as the stock bushing. It installs a little harder than the stock one due to it being twice as wide. Installing the driveshaft was a real treat. It pounded in very very hard but after a few miles it broke in and runs great now!! It also fixed my vibration problem!
It also had to be staked in.
Where did you stake it in, on the flat surface that is flush with the bushing? The pic on the instructions is terrible. I staked it straght up, top and bottom, the driveshaft it supposed to go in hard and you wont be able to turn it my hand until you get a few miles on it, then you should be able to turn it by hand. It has 2 half circle things on one end of the bushing I put that end into the trans first, and lined the oil hole with the top oil passage. Hope that helps, and yes there instructions are crappy.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 47
Likes: 2
From: Toutle, WA
I just went through the "No Walk Bushing" install thing today. And yes the instructions are pretty much useless.
My experience was the same as sickss228. I was considering honing the bushing, but I remember reading this thread and how it was supposed to be tight. It took a 2' bar stuck in the u-joint to turn my drive shaft. I knew this wasn't right, so I called Rockland Standard Gear and they told me that usually what happenes is people use a hammer and a bushing driver (or 2"x4") to install the bushing and it doesn't start totally straight, and when it does finally straighten up and follow the bore it's under size. I assured him I used a press and mine went in straight.
So he recommended lube the yoke and tap the drive shaft in all the way and smack the u-joint sideways with a large soft hammer every 90 deg. around the part. In other words, hit 4 sides of the u-joint with the soft hammer like your trying to drive the u-joint out and that will seat the bushing. Took about 2 good hits per side with my three pound dead blow, but mine went from turning the shaft with a bar to being able to turn it by hand. It's still snug, but I'm not afraid of it galling now when I drive the car.
Hope this helps some of you.
My experience was the same as sickss228. I was considering honing the bushing, but I remember reading this thread and how it was supposed to be tight. It took a 2' bar stuck in the u-joint to turn my drive shaft. I knew this wasn't right, so I called Rockland Standard Gear and they told me that usually what happenes is people use a hammer and a bushing driver (or 2"x4") to install the bushing and it doesn't start totally straight, and when it does finally straighten up and follow the bore it's under size. I assured him I used a press and mine went in straight.
So he recommended lube the yoke and tap the drive shaft in all the way and smack the u-joint sideways with a large soft hammer every 90 deg. around the part. In other words, hit 4 sides of the u-joint with the soft hammer like your trying to drive the u-joint out and that will seat the bushing. Took about 2 good hits per side with my three pound dead blow, but mine went from turning the shaft with a bar to being able to turn it by hand. It's still snug, but I'm not afraid of it galling now when I drive the car.
Hope this helps some of you.
Last edited by alloy; Sep 12, 2008 at 06:24 PM.
And I've heard of a Snap-On tool meant for bushing R&R on the car (for use w/ 200-4R and others) but I can't find it.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 47
Likes: 2
From: Toutle, WA
No not really. To remove the tail housing you need to remove the shifter, then drive the roll pin in the offset lever down. Slide the lever off and unbolt the housing and it will come off with a little persuasion from a soft hammer. The only thing than can fall out is the counter shaft extension bearing race, shim, and plastic funnel. The race is just a slip fit in the housing and it will fall out easily, but isn't a big deal to put back in.
I just recently installed a NWB in my car because I was getting some high speed vibration at 80+ mph (thought I had fixed my vibration). Everyone talks about how the driveshaft went in tight, well I luberd mine up with tranny fluid and it went in without much effort at all. When I push on the yoke I get the slightest amount of play. I am wondering if my yoke OD on my strange driveshaft my be a hair undersized or maybe the bushing ID is a bit oversized. Anyone have an idea? Is it even a problem?
Some info on car"
Prothane motor and trans mounts.
Stock torque arm mount (including bushing).
Stock torque arm
UMI LCA's amd panhard bar (all tight and set to stock length)
S60 w/ 4.30's
Strange S60 CM driveshaft
Six Speeds Inc T56
Tex OZ700
New master and slave (stock)
There is also some clunking when I disengage the clutch. It will occur when cruising if I blip the throttle while in gear too.
Some info on car"
Prothane motor and trans mounts.
Stock torque arm mount (including bushing).
Stock torque arm
UMI LCA's amd panhard bar (all tight and set to stock length)
S60 w/ 4.30's
Strange S60 CM driveshaft
Six Speeds Inc T56
Tex OZ700
New master and slave (stock)
There is also some clunking when I disengage the clutch. It will occur when cruising if I blip the throttle while in gear too.
My strange driveshaft measures 1.500" and the inside of the new rockland bushing measured 1.510" before installing it.
The thing that helped me a lot was setting pinion angle more accurately with a digital level. Got mine at Sears for about $30
The thing that helped me a lot was setting pinion angle more accurately with a digital level. Got mine at Sears for about $30
I just recently installed a NWB in my car because I was getting some high speed vibration at 80+ mph (thought I had fixed my vibration). Everyone talks about how the driveshaft went in tight, well I luberd mine up with tranny fluid and it went in without much effort at all. When I push on the yoke I get the slightest amount of play. I am wondering if my yoke OD on my strange driveshaft my be a hair undersized or maybe the bushing ID is a bit oversized. Anyone have an idea? Is it even a problem?
Some info on car"
Prothane motor and trans mounts.
Stock torque arm mount (including bushing).
Stock torque arm
UMI LCA's amd panhard bar (all tight and set to stock length)
S60 w/ 4.30's
Strange S60 CM driveshaft
Six Speeds Inc T56
Tex OZ700
New master and slave (stock)
There is also some clunking when I disengage the clutch. It will occur when cruising if I blip the throttle while in gear too.
Some info on car"
Prothane motor and trans mounts.
Stock torque arm mount (including bushing).
Stock torque arm
UMI LCA's amd panhard bar (all tight and set to stock length)
S60 w/ 4.30's
Strange S60 CM driveshaft
Six Speeds Inc T56
Tex OZ700
New master and slave (stock)
There is also some clunking when I disengage the clutch. It will occur when cruising if I blip the throttle while in gear too.