JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

What do you guys know about EDM Pin Oiling (force fed)?

I'm looking at a 434cid SBC with a dry sump system and vacuum pump that will be turning between 8000-8500. I figure I'll be seeing some oil starvation at the top of the engine and this will require the EDM Pin Oiling option to correct. I know Crower, Carrillo, and Lentz all offer it, though it's really expensive (especially on the I-Beams, H-Beams offer more material and thus it's easier/cheaper). Just looking to see if it works and if there are other things I can do to preserve the engine at those high RPMs?

Also, would the Callies, Crower, or Scat "straight shot oiling" on the crankshaft help? What about larger radii on the main and rod journals?

Thanks!

triumphman

I recommend casidium coated pins and double pin oilers with slots [piston] this combo has proven it's self in the many dry sump engines I have built for world challenge and other endurance engines, pay close attention to the valve train ti valves are a necessity, good luck with your build.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Thanks, I had been looking into the casidium coatings.

racer7088

I doubt you'd need anything special as long as you are running regular oil clearances and not 25 inches of vacuum. The rod big end oil clearance is what will throw oil up under the pistons for the most part. They need that stuff in the nascar engines with tons of heat going through them and the constant high rpm along with the tight clearances and the super effective oil pans at removing oil and windage. On a regular engine I doubt you will have problems with the right pins and the right clearances at all.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I may see 25-30mins at 5000-8000+ RPM. I don't want to kaboom the engine.

Old SStroker

I'd go for the Diamond Like Carbon (DLC) coated pins. Casidium is just one trade name. Your piston manufaturer can probably provide you with DLC coated pins. Consider running them on the steel rod without bronze bushings. Again, check with your piston manufacturer.

If you are doing the 434 with a large bore, like 4.155 x 4.00 and keep the piston weight under control (light), pin inertia loads won't be all that excessive, but you'll be seeing piston speeds similar to a Cup engine.

What sort of power are you looking at in the 7500-8000 range?

Is this going to run on a highway?

racer7088

And make sure they are good pins with some meat. Cup runs .170 wall tool steel.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

One Lap of America, so it'll run anything and maybe some other magazine stuff. When I build it, I'll be an attention *****.

I reckon I can drive fairly well and with a 3000lbs T/A with a rollcage and 850HP should at least make it an interesting One Lap!

Also, I hope to make 800-850HP in that RPM range. Wiseco can build me a 400g piston, but I may go with a slightly heavier rod, say 650g versus a 550g rod to take the abuse.

Old SStroker

850 hp @ 8000 is a BMEP (at that rpm) of about 194 psi. A 358 cube Cup engine making 850 hp @ 9000 has a BMEP of about 209 psi, so you need to do everything pretty much perfectly to get to 195 psi @ 8000. Don't you have to use pump gas for OLoA? 850 might be a stretch on 91 octane, but it's doable....especially if you are working with a Cup engine guy. Quite a few production based engines can make 200+ psi BMEP around 7000 even in endurance applications. Most have short strokes or stroke/bore ratios around .80-.77. You are about .96.

If I were doing it, I would consider keeping the max r's in the low 7's and build an engine that had the most area under the torque curve from say 4-7200 or where I planned to run it on the track. Think short track Cup engine, but with less rpm. I really can't see geting 850 hp to the ground on the tries you have to run.

Have you considered a dry sump?

My $.02

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Dry sump and vacuum pump will be done. I'll be using Dart 11-degree Little Chief heads (flow over 400cfm from .700" to 1.000").

I will be using pump gas. At the tracks you can use race gas, but I have to be able to get there, so I will build it for 91-octane minimum. It'll be fuel injected via a FAST XFI, so I'll probably have a different timing map for 91-octane versus 100-octane.

Louis

iTrader: (7)

If you can finish that race with a 600 hp car, you will do well. I second keeping the revs lower. tranny ratios and final drives will be determined as well, so make sure you keep the combo together with what you pick.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Ah, but 850HP is more fun.

Louis

iTrader: (7)

Sure, I agree But remember you are on a street tire too, trying to put that power to the ground will be difficult with 600, much less 800+

Not to be a kill joy, just being realistic My OLoA timeline is still 20-24 months out, and we are shooting for 600 wheel with a few different maps

racer7088

DAMN !!!! You weren't joking about making that power !!!!