NightKid#2

iTrader: (3)

So I had a set of 90mm Hella Projector and High Beam Module sitting around from when I had my LS1/RX-7 and decided to give it a shot.

I'm not sure if anyone has done 90mm projectors before, I've only seen 70mm and 80mm I think.

Took me a while to get them right, it was a HUGE PITA. There was a lot of cutting and fabing, only 45% of the stock (brittle POS) aluminum plate remains. Also some cutting of the body mounting plate was needed. No cutting the bumper though, witch I was happy to avoid.

I am very happy with the results though. They are definitely bright and the high beams are insane. Much sharper then the camera shows. All I got left is to fiberglass me some new covers to make it look clean.

Second picture is of just the low beam install. Installing the low beam only requires cutting and drilling. The high beams require all the welding/fabing.

Went I little overboard with the wiring. Could of been done with 2 relays but I had 4 setting around and I might put the 100w H9 bulbs in later. The power is run through the stock fuse box where 1 unused and 1 abs (unused cause I deleted mine) Big maxi fuses are.

NightKid#2

iTrader: (3)

I didn't get any before pictures cause I started at random one day lol.

1. Low beams
2. Low and High beams
3. Low beams
4. Low and High beams
5. Me going for my test drive

Still got some adjusting to do and of course got sticky fiberglassing left .

NightKid#2

iTrader: (3)

Also found a nice empty back road on my test drive to really test out my line lock finally . Only been using it as a hill assist for the most part. Switch is to activate the button, button locks the line. Button panels I made myself and are inset enough to avoid accidentally turning it on.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

How did you go about the buttons?

NightKid#2

iTrader: (3)

You mean how did i make them or how did I wire them?

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Make them. If I could make it a little more factory looking I may just do it.

NightKid#2

iTrader: (3)

I just wrap the stock radio buttons then cut, drilled, dremaled, filler primer and painted them. I don't have any pictures of them out to show you how i cut them.
I agree with you though, I was going to texter them to make them look more stock but then I couldn't find a good matching color to make it worth the time. I plan on making another set with some "low key buttons" when I find a better matching color.

If your looking for a real factory look though It would just be easier to resolder the radio buttons to what you want, then sand the buttons down a little bit to remove the labeling. Would take a lot less work, time and money .

Slvr00Bird

iTrader: (2)

Those steering wheel switches look great. Nice idea.

NightKid#2

iTrader: (3)

thank you. My thought was for it to function as a hill assist/burnout/brake assist button it had to be on the steering wheel or else it just a burnout button. It is so helpful in the parking garage and easy to use. I guess I should of just made this a thread about these buttons and not the headlights lol.

VIP1

Nice Install. Why do they look so blue in that close-up pic off the car?

I installed Hella 90mm low beam projectors on my Formula in mid-2007 and its in the Lighting FAQ. Others have done it before me too.

I didn't have to remove the flip mechanism and I don't think I cut as much as you since most of my headlight frame is still there.

Lighting FAQ:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...hting-faq.html
(There are other installs and general lighting improvement threads.)

My Install of Hella 90mm Low Beam Projectors
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...enty-pics.html


I've added this your thread to the Lighting FAQ too.

RedVertTA

iTrader: (9)

How much did this cost?

NightKid#2

iTrader: (3)

I don't know how I overlooked that in the lighting FAQ thread it would of been helpful .

I had the flash on in that picture so I'm guessing that's what made them look blue.

I think mine sit about 1/4"-1/2" farther back then yours. Which Is why I had to cut the hump on the mounting bracket behind to let the connectors fit. I wanted to keep them staggered as much as possible for when I fiberglass the new housings(hopefully this coming weekend). So most of the housing on the low beam side is still there it's just the high beam side that's 95% gone.
The flip mechanism was neither removed or moved. The house is just so brittle that when I was cutting next to it the vibration broke it off . So that had to be welding back on, but it is still in the stock location though it had to be reinforced. And the reason the high beam sits higher then the low beam is because of the flip mechanism. It also sits i tad farther back then stock for the same reason. Hardest thing to do was taking the $60 high beam modules to cut off the outer most unused mounting tap almost made me. Was not easy lol.

That awesome that you added it to the lighting sticky guess all have to take them back off and post more pictures now lol.

After reading your thread now I'm thinking about some HIDs for mine I wonder how high I could go since I overkilled it on the wiring. lol

I'm still thinking I'm going to see how much of an angle I can pull of with the way they are mounted now or redoing them and making them closer to the top so I can make it a sleepy eyed since they look small in that vast space.

NightKid#2

iTrader: (3)

$250 for the high and low modules.
$30 for the terminals and connectors.
$95 for the relays and relay connectors.
$50 for welding gas and aluminum wirer.
$80 for metal and other little stuff.