SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Black is almost always ground, and the other color (whatever that other color may be) is positive.

MasterV8

iTrader: (7)

I went with the green, both high & low beams came on then the diode started to smoke & the factory high beam started to die so I've just disconnected it for now.

It seems every time I come on this site to do something that seems simple goes **** up for me.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

The diode you got can't handle the current. You need one capable of more. 65 watts (4.5 amps at 14.5 volts) is a lot to ask of a simple diode.

OR use the same diode to trigger a relay that will handle the current.

OR (better yet) do the wiring trick under the steering wheel that will give the same results without needing to use any diodes. Simple cut back insulation, twist together (solder would be better but a good twist works), and tape up. Done.

MasterV8

iTrader: (7)

The diode I used was 1N5404 that was listed in one of the threads. But I might try that.

VIP1

The wiring mod to keep the high and low on together is in the Lighting FAQ,
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...hting-faq.html

NeoLoco

On my car, I tapped into the positive side of the high beam on the car to the positive side of the low beam wire on the car, both on the passenger side. The low beam wire on the passenger side of the car then connects to the relay harness.

I got the harness with the kit from TRS, and the only thing I had to do was the diode. If you order from them, they can wire a diode into the harness so it is completely plug and play.

Conrad

iTrader: (20)

Do you know what kind of diode that is?

NeoLoco

The one that was mentioned previously sounded like the right one. I got the number for mine from TRS, and bought it at Radio Shack.

What kind of wiring setup do you have?

Conrad

iTrader: (20)

Not sure what you are asking. I've got extra 9006 connectors on the high and low beam connectors so I won't have to splice into my factory wiring.

NeoLoco

I was gonna try to help you figure out why your diode got fried, but without knowing how you have everything setup, it's impossible to determine what the problem is.

Conrad

iTrader: (20)

That was MasterV8.

NeoLoco

It's been a long day.

MasterV8

iTrader: (7)

Yeah! It was me I've no idea why it fried! I followed the wiring diagram that was shown with the diode.

Tapped into what I assumed was +high wire(green) to +low wire(red) of the connector plugged into the harness.
Diode strip facing lows(there's an arrow on the diode showing direction of flow).

Turned on lows first, no problem then highs(only did the passenger side to see if it worked first) which came on with lows, Diode smoked & high beam flickered. I'll probably wire it under the dash, looks like a cleaner install & less wires everywhere.

Ismokem

Looks mean

CMKworm

iTrader: (2)

Back from the dead. So I'm getting ready to order the TRS H1 kit and was going to order bulbs from DDM. Will the 9006 bulbs fit or are the H1's a direct replacement? Assuming I need a relay as well?

NeoLoco

Call TRS. They will probably be able to answer any questions you have about the kit.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

If you buy H1 projectors you need H1 bulbs.

CMKworm

iTrader: (2)

Thank you. What high beam are you all running to match the H1's?

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

I have H1 projectors in my high beams also. Definitely do the low+high mod and hook the highs to open the cutoff shields.

CMKworm

iTrader: (2)

So don't even run a high beam bulb? I'm not sure I want to install 2 projectors in each light.