chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

I have a 2001 bullitt I bought from an old friend recently before he could trade it in. It was repainted 2 years ago and is covered in orange peel

I was thinking start with 1500 grit and then move to 2500

Any tips or advice?
Here's the car

BOBS99SS

iTrader: (2)

My main tip is do not take sandpaper to your car if you have no clue on what your doing, i have seen people destroy there paint trying to do something like that, i would ask gofast for some info on what he would do, there is a pro detailing thread, take good pics and see what he thinks, again if you dont have a pc and right materials /skills to do the job i would maybe have someone do it that knows what there doing, nice car though

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Peopel have wetsanded with a D/A but you really should do it with a Rotary and step down to a D/A to finish off.

Paint depth checker is in order and since it was repainted you should have enough clear to work with.

Spend time on detailing specific websites, some people have some really good how-to guides and at work they are blocked so I cant link them. Taking your time is key and the willingness to destroy the finish is what your going to need.

If you dont have a D/A or Rotary buffer, stop right there and go buy some stuff and practice on junkyard body panels. Get a feel for it before hitting your car.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

I already have a rotary and a da. Even with a wool pad and the hardest cut compound I have they do not make a dent on the orange peel. The paint reflection is extremely blurry and the surface is uneven.

Thank you for the friendly warnings however I need more cut than a rotary or da will allow

ws6foose

iTrader: (2)

Sweet Bullitt. I had a procharged 01 earlier this year

Bramlok

iTrader: (7)

I used 1500 when I did mine and it turned out nice. I had some 2000 grit also but didn't need to use it. After buffing it with a rotary and buffing compound and then following up with polishing compound it turned out really nice. I'm not a pro either.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Thanks. They are nice cars but definitely lacking in the torque department down low like a typical pushrod motor

The paint is very thick and it's a single stage paint job so it shouldn't give me too many problems. I'm starting in a small area on the fender and working out from there

Usually a rotary with a strong cutting compound is good enough on my fbodies however the Maaco paint on the mustang isn't responding

Thanks for the tip bramlock, I had actually just purchased 1500 and 2000 grit blocks this morning. I'll post before and after

1quick98formula

iTrader: (3)

without wet sanding you will not get rid of the orange peel.if the orange peel is bad you might want to start with 1000 or 1200 grit then 1500.this also depends on how much clear is on the car.im assuming this is base coat clear coat not single stage.i would also sand with a block to get it flat since your main concern is orange peel.just be careful on the edges sanding and buffing.make sure buffer is spinning off the edge not in to it.

Conrad

iTrader: (20)

I'd definitely practice on junkyard panals. It's very easy to rub through. Remember to avoid any edges. I'd recommend using a stiff flat sanding block and flexible flat sanding block. Check your work often. Good luck.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Welp finished the passengers door. Looks ALOT better. I used 2000 grit and I think it was too light because there is still very minor orange peel however it's a mirror finish now

You can tell I only did the center section of the door, the tops and bottoms are covered in orange peel still.

Before

During

After

drwprtcht

Looks good, Ben. Nice GT!

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Thanks drew.

I was using meguiars diamOnd cut after the wet sanding but it was too rough of a compound and I was getting a lot of swirl marks and surface scratches. I switched to m205 and the finish on the car looks better than new.

The meguiars diamond cut is an extremely abrasive compound. Instead if wet sanding the hood I have been using the compound and I would say its greatly reduced the orange peel. It's not as good as wet sanding but I would highly recommend it for light orange peel followed by m205

ctjohns

iTrader: (10)

Cut the peel with 1000, then jump to 2000. Will buff like butter and will be glass smooth. Bonus.....your arms will thank you! Chuck

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

I'll have to try that tomorrow. I have about half the car done at the moment and need to get a new buffer pad and another wet sand block.

Surprisingly I'm getting the marks out with a $20 sears buffer and a terry pad. The wool pad was just throwing fibers everywhere

JUSTINSWS6

Is the paint coming off why is the pad green. The organe peel can be in the paint layer not the clear which would mean you can wet sand or buff that out.

dabest09

iTrader: (1)

I hate to say it but I think you burned through the clear. Look at the color of your pad.

JUSTINSWS6

Thats what im saying he went through the clear he needs a repaint know. When you have bad orange peel if its in the color layers you get the shaft

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

It's a single stage paint job that was oxidizing. It was coming off during wax application by hand. After wet sanding the oxidation has stopped for the most part and the paint is stable again. If it was still on the factory paint job you would be right, however he took the car to Maaco a few years ago after most of the cars clear coat peeled off of the roof and the hood and he had a single stage paint job done

The car has 168k miles and has lived outside its entire life. I asked him how often he waxed it and he said he paid for the wax spray at a car wash one time

On the left is the paint when I first got the car, the right hand side was after a basic cleaner wax hand application which ruined most of my hand application pad collection. Notice how you can barely make out the reflection of the tree in the paint that has been waxed on the trunk






Now another reference picture from today when i briefly pulled the car out. the left is where I have wet sanded and buffed while the hood has still not yet been treated.

dabest09

iTrader: (1)

Well if it's single stage paint that's another story. I thought it was base/clear. But that after shot looks much better!

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Good grief that took forever