Best Glaze/Sealant/Wasx for Pewter Metallic Paint
#1
Best Glaze/Sealant/Wasx for Pewter Metallic Paint
I'm going to have a local guy do a 3 stage buff/polish job on my 02 WS6. There is some very faint swirl marks and marring, so I'm going to have him take care of that and get my paint back to looking perfect. I'd like to know what products I can use to keep my paint looking perfect after this correction is done. I'd like to know exactly what products to use and in what order to use them. My paint is Pewter Metallic, so I'm looking for products that will really bring out the most intense shine and color depth.
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Products are all personal preference. Personally, I use Adam's products. Expirement with different brands (most OTC stuff is ****) to see what you prefer. Research different manufacturers (Adams, Chemical Guys, Meg's, etc.) to see what appeals to you.
To maintain a swirl free finish you'll want to do AT LEAST a 2-bucket was with grit guards in the bottom and quality wash mitts (one for the top 2/3 and one for the bottom 1/3). I personally do a 3-bucket wash. Additionally, use quality microfiber towels when drying and removing products.
As far as the order of use, it goes like this:
Clay-->Polish-->Seal-->Glaze-->Wax
Steps can be skipped, but it is counterproductive to do it in the opposite order. Hope this helps, and I know that I didn't suggest any specific product, but like I said that is all personal preference.
To maintain a swirl free finish you'll want to do AT LEAST a 2-bucket was with grit guards in the bottom and quality wash mitts (one for the top 2/3 and one for the bottom 1/3). I personally do a 3-bucket wash. Additionally, use quality microfiber towels when drying and removing products.
As far as the order of use, it goes like this:
Clay-->Polish-->Seal-->Glaze-->Wax
Steps can be skipped, but it is counterproductive to do it in the opposite order. Hope this helps, and I know that I didn't suggest any specific product, but like I said that is all personal preference.
#5
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As far as keeping it in good condition, there are some great tips mentioned above. I'd also add that the less you physically touch the paint the better. I started blowing out the cracks, crevices, door handles etc with an electric leaf blower first. By the time you're done with that there are only a few places left to wipe dry. Much less chance of causing towel marks.
In for finished pics!
#6
Just a thought here... if the swirl marks and marring or "very faint" are you sure you want to pay for a 3 step correction? It might only need a light polishing and not a heavy cut. I'd ask the detailer just to be sure. You don't want to remove any more than absolutely necessary.
As far as keeping it in good condition, there are some great tips mentioned above. I'd also add that the less you physically touch the paint the better. I started blowing out the cracks, crevices, door handles etc with an electric leaf blower first. By the time you're done with that there are only a few places left to wipe dry. Much less chance of causing towel marks.
In for finished pics!
As far as keeping it in good condition, there are some great tips mentioned above. I'd also add that the less you physically touch the paint the better. I started blowing out the cracks, crevices, door handles etc with an electric leaf blower first. By the time you're done with that there are only a few places left to wipe dry. Much less chance of causing towel marks.
In for finished pics!
Thanks for all the replies guys. I will for sure do the 2 bucket method from that point on in order to keep the swirl marks and marring off my paint. I'm going to order some good microfibers and wash mits from Adams. I'm most familiar with Adams products, as that is what I use to keep my CCW's polished up.
If anyone has a Pewter Metallic vehicle and want to share what they use and some pics, that would be great.
#7
Products are all personal preference. Personally, I use Adam's products. Expirement with different brands (most OTC stuff is ****) to see what you prefer. Research different manufacturers (Adams, Chemical Guys, Meg's, etc.) to see what appeals to you.
To maintain a swirl free finish you'll want to do AT LEAST a 2-bucket was with grit guards in the bottom and quality wash mitts (one for the top 2/3 and one for the bottom 1/3). I personally do a 3-bucket wash. Additionally, use quality microfiber towels when drying and removing products.
As far as the order of use, it goes like this:
Clay-->Polish-->Seal-->Glaze-->Wax
Steps can be skipped, but it is counterproductive to do it in the opposite order. Hope this helps, and I know that I didn't suggest any specific product, but like I said that is all personal preference.
To maintain a swirl free finish you'll want to do AT LEAST a 2-bucket was with grit guards in the bottom and quality wash mitts (one for the top 2/3 and one for the bottom 1/3). I personally do a 3-bucket wash. Additionally, use quality microfiber towels when drying and removing products.
As far as the order of use, it goes like this:
Clay-->Polish-->Seal-->Glaze-->Wax
Steps can be skipped, but it is counterproductive to do it in the opposite order. Hope this helps, and I know that I didn't suggest any specific product, but like I said that is all personal preference.
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#8
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When I had a LPM Camaro first off the thing would be dirty as hell and people would compliment me on how clean it was. Neutral colors are the best for that but LPM cant touch my NBM car with shine and paint depth. I would stay away from glaze if your having the paint 'corrected". No need to hide anything if theres nothing to hide. Is the car garaged? I wouldnt seal and wax the car if its not daily driven always exposed to the elements. Id check out autopia.org for product reviews unless you can find a mention of something good for LPM in the big detailing thread on here. I get most all my products from autogeek.net. I used OTC products on LPM and was always satisfied. Id worry more about maintaining a swirl/defect free finish than worrying about making LPM pop.
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When I had a LPM Camaro first off the thing would be dirty as hell and people would compliment me on how clean it was. Neutral colors are the best for that but LPM cant touch my NBM car with shine and paint depth. I would stay away from glaze if your having the paint 'corrected". No need to hide anything if theres nothing to hide. Is the car garaged? I wouldnt seal and wax the car if its not daily driven always exposed to the elements. Id check out autopia.org for product reviews unless you can find a mention of something good for LPM in the big detailing thread on here. I get most all my products from autogeek.net. I used OTC products on LPM and was always satisfied. Id worry more about maintaining a swirl/defect free finish than worrying about making LPM pop.
Additionally, you're saying that he shouldn't seal or wax the vehicle at all if its not daily driven? Can you elaborate as to why you shouldn't protect the paint at all?
Sealants are your MAIN barrier for protection from the elements and need a bare paint surface to adhere to. That's why they need to go on before anything else. They last the longest and are the most durable. A wax will add an additional amount of protection but not as much as a sealant and will degrade quicker. Waxes also increase the depth and shine of the paint.
#12
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A glaze isn't supposed to be used to hide defects, that's just an added benefit. Glazes are used for enhance shine and depth.
Additionally, you're saying that he shouldn't seal or wax the vehicle at all if its not daily driven? Can you elaborate as to why you shouldn't protect the paint at all?
Sealants are your MAIN barrier for protection from the elements and need a bare paint surface to adhere to. That's why they need to go on before anything else. They last the longest and are the most durable. A wax will add an additional amount of protection but not as much as a sealant and will degrade quicker. Waxes also increase the depth and shine of the paint.
Additionally, you're saying that he shouldn't seal or wax the vehicle at all if its not daily driven? Can you elaborate as to why you shouldn't protect the paint at all?
Sealants are your MAIN barrier for protection from the elements and need a bare paint surface to adhere to. That's why they need to go on before anything else. They last the longest and are the most durable. A wax will add an additional amount of protection but not as much as a sealant and will degrade quicker. Waxes also increase the depth and shine of the paint.
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I agree that both aren't necessary. If the car never sees inclement weather then a glaze and wax combo would give you great depth and shine. It all depends on what the user is looking for.
#14
Thanks guys,
My car is not a Daily Driver and never sees rain or snow.
egott 91, so since my car won't see any rain or snow, a sealant isn't really needed and won't do anything to enhance the shine and depth? If that's the case, then it looks like I'll need to pick up a good glaze and wax combo. Are there specific kinds/brands that are made for hand application and others that are made to be applied by a DA/Porter Cable? I don't have a Porter Cable or DA.
My car is not a Daily Driver and never sees rain or snow.
egott 91, so since my car won't see any rain or snow, a sealant isn't really needed and won't do anything to enhance the shine and depth? If that's the case, then it looks like I'll need to pick up a good glaze and wax combo. Are there specific kinds/brands that are made for hand application and others that are made to be applied by a DA/Porter Cable? I don't have a Porter Cable or DA.
#15
Zaino all the way here as well. Absolutely love their stuff. Apply in sun, shade, night or day. Very easy to work with and for best results apply in straight lines, as if water was running off the parked car. Then to boot, this stuff is buildable. More layers you apply, the deeper it gets!
My 2000 was not too shiny when it came to me a few months ago. 25 coats of Zaino over the winter and it looks amazing!
My 2000 was not too shiny when it came to me a few months ago. 25 coats of Zaino over the winter and it looks amazing!
#16
Zaino all the way here as well. Absolutely love their stuff. Apply in sun, shade, night or day. Very easy to work with and for best results apply in straight lines, as if water was running off the parked car. Then to boot, this stuff is buildable. More layers you apply, the deeper it gets!
My 2000 was not too shiny when it came to me a few months ago. 25 coats of Zaino over the winter and it looks amazing!
My 2000 was not too shiny when it came to me a few months ago. 25 coats of Zaino over the winter and it looks amazing!
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Zaino is a brand.
A sealant can add shine and depth but you will probably see more depth and shine from a high quality wax.
Most glazes and waxes are to be applied by hand, but some can be applied by machine. Most sealants however are to be applied by a machine (so that the coverage is even).
Sealants also need a cure period before products can be layered on top. Be aware that too many coats of wax can actually cause the paint to look cloudy due to wax build up. When that happens its time to strip the wax and reapply a fresh coat. Idk if you prefer paste or liquid waxes, but usually with a paste wax it is better to apply 2 thin coats than one heavy coat.
A sealant can add shine and depth but you will probably see more depth and shine from a high quality wax.
Most glazes and waxes are to be applied by hand, but some can be applied by machine. Most sealants however are to be applied by a machine (so that the coverage is even).
Sealants also need a cure period before products can be layered on top. Be aware that too many coats of wax can actually cause the paint to look cloudy due to wax build up. When that happens its time to strip the wax and reapply a fresh coat. Idk if you prefer paste or liquid waxes, but usually with a paste wax it is better to apply 2 thin coats than one heavy coat.
#18
Zaino is a brand.
A sealant can add shine and depth but you will probably see more depth and shine from a high quality wax.
Most glazes and waxes are to be applied by hand, but some can be applied by machine. Most sealants however are to be applied by a machine (so that the coverage is even).
Sealants also need a cure period before products can be layered on top. Be aware that too many coats of wax can actually cause the paint to look cloudy due to wax build up. When that happens its time to strip the wax and reapply a fresh coat. Idk if you prefer paste or liquid waxes, but usually with a paste wax it is better to apply 2 thin coats than one heavy coat.
A sealant can add shine and depth but you will probably see more depth and shine from a high quality wax.
Most glazes and waxes are to be applied by hand, but some can be applied by machine. Most sealants however are to be applied by a machine (so that the coverage is even).
Sealants also need a cure period before products can be layered on top. Be aware that too many coats of wax can actually cause the paint to look cloudy due to wax build up. When that happens its time to strip the wax and reapply a fresh coat. Idk if you prefer paste or liquid waxes, but usually with a paste wax it is better to apply 2 thin coats than one heavy coat.
Thanks for all your help. Have you used Zaino, and if so, did you like it. I'd like to know what you prefer to use, as you seem to have a great knowledge regarding all of this.
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If liquid and paste waxes are of equal quality and will provide the same protection/shine, then I'd go with a liquid wax. I'm sure it's easier to apply.
Thanks for all your help. Have you used Zaino, and if so, did you like it. I'd like to know what you prefer to use, as you seem to have a great knowledge regarding all of this.
Thanks for all your help. Have you used Zaino, and if so, did you like it. I'd like to know what you prefer to use, as you seem to have a great knowledge regarding all of this.
Honestly, I don't have much experience with brands other than Adams. I started using Adams and it impressed me so I stuck with their products for a few reasons. 1) made in USA 2) 110% guarantee 3) ease of use 4) amazing customer service and 5) their products are pretty much idiot proof and designed for the novice detailer. I find that a lot of people find Adams overpriced, but I would much rather spend a couple dollars extra to receive amazing customer service and support an American company.
Like I mentioned earlier, do your research and find products that appear to satisfy your wants.
#20
What are you after? Maximum protection/durability? Gloss?
I would personally recommend a coating like cquartz, exo, opti guard. If you're paying to have your paint corrected, might as well get the best protection.
I would personally recommend a coating like cquartz, exo, opti guard. If you're paying to have your paint corrected, might as well get the best protection.