chevystyle

iTrader: (1)

Any other options or is clear coat used as a protected coating??

Double-aught_Z/28

iTrader: (11)

If you don't clear coat them, they'll fog back up pretty quick.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

clear coat is to protect it.

chevystyle

iTrader: (1)

Ah I see. The only thing that worries me is I may spray too much by making the clear coat run.

Double-aught_Z/28

iTrader: (11)

Just do light coats. Worst case if it runs you're just going to have to sand them down again.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

also get a good 2k clear, not that garbage clear coat sold in spray cans at the parts stores, you'll get an even longer lasting clear, those cheaper clears tend to yellow prematurely.

LT4vert

iTrader: (3)

Its the more expensive route but after the lenses are corrected properly, I would put xpel clear fim on them. That clear film is just flat out awesome stuff, and you are able to put a coating like cquartz or opti coat on top of it.

Either way, so long as you get something to protect. They degrade so much quicker after wet sanding because the OEM lenses have a protective coating you sand off.

The Guz

iTrader: (8)

Depending on the condition of the lights I would pick up the Perfect Clarity kit from Meguiar's. The coating within the kit is supposed to last 1 year.

More info here

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...estoration-Kit

My review

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ion-Kit-Review

Another review

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...estoration-Kit

This kit works well on lights that are not severely oxidized. If they are then you will still need to sand. This kit work with sanding as well.

I restored a set of headlights on a 06 Ford F150 but I had to sand the headlights. Instead of compounding and polishing the sanding marks I just used the coating after 3000 grit. The coating needs a scuffed surface to bond to. It worked very well.

Here's the review on that truck.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...vidson-Edition

Another option is to invest in some opti-lens. It's expensive but it's semi-permanent. With this you would sand, compound, polish, IPA wipe and seal with opti-lens. I've used this on my dad's depo headlights as the coating on one was starting to fail and it works great.

3M makes a sanding kit as well. You can use a sealant (aka a synthetic wax) on the lights. You will have to do this routinely as they will yellow again over time.

X-pel is another good option.

chevystyle

iTrader: (1)

Thanks everyone for your replies. Gotta check out that Meguiar's kit. Helps out a lot.

chevystyle

iTrader: (1)

Oh ya, I'm thinking about cutting off the nipples or horns as some call them. Will wet sanding give it a smooth look where the nipples where at?? Thanks again.

chevystyle

iTrader: (1)

Is that cquartz or opti a protective coating??

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I've never bothered to clear them after a wet sanding restoration, simply because the basic rattle can one-part clear coat gets a bad review for this purpose. I just kept them regularly waxed (with each washing), and then once or twice a year I'd hit them with a fine cut compound and a polish prior to another waxing. This worked fine for many years on my outdoor '02 car after doing the initial wet sanding restoration. I live in the north though, so UV exposure is really only an issue for a few months out of the year anyway.

dailydriver

I would not be the least bit surprised if the draconian Republik Of Cali inspection failed you for not having the 'DOT nipples' on your lights, even IF they were perfectly legal otherwise.

I would check this out before doing that appearance mod.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

CQuartz DLUX. It's for plastic. It will last years not months. It's one of the best products they make. I've been using it for three years now. It's nothing short of amazing.

http://www.carpro-us.com/exterior-su...ating-sky-kit/

farmington

iTrader: (14)

I cut the nipples off of mine before I sanded and polished them. Takes more time and patience but looks nice when done. sure makes it easier to sand and polish

93BlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

As long as you keep wax on them, I don't see a need for clear coat.

chevystyle

iTrader: (1)

But it seems that the clear coat is what also clears up the lens because it's cloudy after the final wet sanding.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

But wet sanding is not the final stage, unless you intend to clear coat them.

Otherwise, after hitting them with 2500 grit, you can move on to various stages of compound/polish (I would normally use two grades, especially if your final wet sanding is done with 2000 grit rather than 2500, but you can sometimes get by with one), then finishing up with wax.

LS1121

iTrader: (17)

I coated mine with Sylvania UV Block Clear Coat.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/s...oat/10719345-P

The Guz

iTrader: (8)

I found this to be junk. It didn't last long before it yellowed again.