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Removed side moldings... need some help...

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Old 08-29-2005, 11:35 AM
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Default Removed side moldings... need some help...

I decided to remove my side molding today on my formula it looks great on the passenger side a hair dryer floss and a claybar to remove the goop and it looks like the molding was never there, but on my drivers side it seems like the goops isnt coming off ... like it isnt goop, it almost looks like oxidation of the paint, a small line of what appears to be oxidation along the top edge only of where the molding would be , can this be oxidation? if not what is it? will rubbing compound take it out ? my car is black so its fairly noticeable if your looking closely
Old 08-29-2005, 12:52 PM
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mequirs ScratchX (a liberal amount and rubb) thank me later
Old 08-29-2005, 01:15 PM
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That was the first thing I tried after the claybar didn't work. The Scratch-x seems to smooth it out a little bit but it is a long ways away from being gone... should I get some rubbing compound? I don't want to go buy it if it isnt going to work
Old 08-29-2005, 01:30 PM
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I figured the claybar would have done it... **** man!

My next guess would have been rubbing compound (3m works pretty good)

and my last guess would have been a intensive polish / scratch remover!

hmmm... If these dont work, I am not sure what will! Keep us updated and let us know whats going on with it. Maybe even get up some pics so we can maybe pin point the problem!
Old 08-29-2005, 01:30 PM
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Rubbing compound will scratch off your clear. Even Turtle Wax polishing compound will scratch it pretty badly. I know because I tried on a scuff mark. If it is oxidation, then there would be no clear coat, or at least the clear may have bubbled slightly. If the clear coat is still there, it may be that your clear has bubbled and gives it that light colored look. All you would need to do is take it to someone who can spray, preferably a buddy who'll do it for cheap, and have him sand down the clear then reapply a new coat on the area. Without a pic, this is the best I can do. Hope this helps.
Old 08-29-2005, 02:26 PM
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At second glance and a few fevered scrubs with some scratch-x it doesnt look as bad but it is definitely visible heres a pic it looks like either the clear is bubbling or its some type of mineral buildup. The other side turned out perfect BTW

Don't mind the soap in between the door I must have missed it when washing



As you can see it doesnt look so great, I won't die if I can't fix it but it will be another one of those things that I will always know is there...
Old 08-29-2005, 04:27 PM
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T T T
Old 08-29-2005, 04:31 PM
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Use some IP and a porter cable, that'll take it out
You can do it by hand but your arm will be sore
BTW the IP will remove the swirls you have on the door
Old 08-29-2005, 10:04 PM
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Thats what I thought it would come to, Now I just need a porter cable
Old 08-31-2005, 11:53 AM
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If you don't have a Porter Cable you could just wet sand the area with a high grit sandpaper (2000 or so). This should take off the colorization from the surface of the clear and also give it a deep, glossy look.
Old 08-31-2005, 12:26 PM
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Time to break out the buffer.
Old 08-31-2005, 12:57 PM
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Klasse AIO is great for removing oxidation. Its a chemical paint cleaner.
Old 09-02-2005, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by erok01
Klasse AIO is great for removing oxidation. Its a chemical paint cleaner.
That would probably work in most cases but I think that this is his clear coat. Paint oxidation remover won't work too well on clear because of their different properties. Just buff it out with Scratch-X then polish the clear following with a nice wax job. That should take care of it.
Old 09-02-2005, 01:00 PM
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wetsanding , chemical paint cleaners... you guys are scaring me! I think I'll just wait and buy a buffer, I wanted one anyway to get all those nasty swirls out...
Old 09-02-2005, 01:00 PM
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That would probably work in most cases but I think that this is his clear coat. Paint oxidation remover won't work too well on clear because of their different properties. Just buff it out with Scratch-X then polish the clear following with a nice wax job. That should take care of it.
So AIO is for non clearcoat/single stage finishes? I beg to differ. There is a common misconseption that clear doesn't oxidize.... IT DOES. The reason some people don't beleive clear coat paints oxidize is because clear coat paints oxidize more slowly than traditional single stage paints. It's also less apparent on a clear coat compared to a single stage.

AIO is a chemical cleaner that has little "polishing/abrisive" ability to it.

Another hint, If you're using a foam applicator pad, try switching over to a piece of 100% cotton terry cloth towel for applying your paint cleaner, the nap will give your product a little more bite like this,

My plan of attack on this item would be to:

1. Wash
2. Clay
3. AIO
4. Depending on what it looks like DACP (or similar polish)
5. #80 speed glaze or #9 swirl remover
6. Wax topper of choice

Good luck!

Last edited by erok01; 09-02-2005 at 01:10 PM.
Old 09-02-2005, 01:03 PM
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Luna, don't be afraid of the chemical paint cleaners you really can't mess those up. The wetsanding, now thats a different story. If you've never done it before practice on someone elses car
Old 09-02-2005, 05:08 PM
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Well I havent done anything else yet, but I have noticed on the passenger side in the same area it looks as if the paint may be slightly faded, or it may be a really thin layer of the adhesive leftover.... I will get some pics of it up after the sun goes down a bit so you can actually see it.

I'm beginning to think I should have left the molding
Old 09-02-2005, 05:49 PM
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Here is the picture of the discolored spot on the passenger side, this is not the same side as the pictures above. I think this may just be some leftover adhesive residue that the claybar didnt take off....

and here are just some pics of the drivers side with no molding ... it does look much better. I am just a perfectionist like most other people on these forums...



Old 09-02-2005, 06:23 PM
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Luna, thats going to be tough to do by hand. You may want to try PC first.




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