FYI on the LED Interior kits
12-21-2005, 07:50 PM
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FYI on the LED Interior kits Just finished up installing a blue LED kit from LS1_SS and it turned out nice! In order to do it right (instead of using at hot glue gun), make sure you have a soldering iron and somewhat know how to use it.
For the Speed-O sockets:
I pulled the metal pieces out and soldered each side of the LED to one and then replaced them back into the socket. Once your done, you could mark the side with the resistor and use some silicone to hide everything inside to give it a nice clean look. Key here is to take your time!!! Its not hard to do though.
For the HVAC:
Followed his intructions but used some silicone to secure them in place. Make sure you double/tripple/ quadripple check you have a good connection before buttoning it all up!
For the headlight:
Followed his intruction but you will DEFINATELY need a soldering iron here! I just bent the LED leads to give the proper height, then soldered them on.
I havent tackled the door lights yet and not sure if I will... its a little hard to see that area even with the clears.
For the Speed-O sockets:
I pulled the metal pieces out and soldered each side of the LED to one and then replaced them back into the socket. Once your done, you could mark the side with the resistor and use some silicone to hide everything inside to give it a nice clean look. Key here is to take your time!!! Its not hard to do though.
For the HVAC:
Followed his intructions but used some silicone to secure them in place. Make sure you double/tripple/ quadripple check you have a good connection before buttoning it all up!
For the headlight:
Followed his intruction but you will DEFINATELY need a soldering iron here! I just bent the LED leads to give the proper height, then soldered them on.
I havent tackled the door lights yet and not sure if I will... its a little hard to see that area even with the clears.
I just ordered 5 194 wedge LEDs for my gauge cluster. Looks like you did a good job! 
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12-22-2005, 04:02 AM
#8
so its worth doing? i have a sunset orange ss and i cant decide what color to do... not really wanting to do red... so since the camera doesnt do justice what is the red line look like in person and the needles?
12-22-2005, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by s.o.m.SS
so its worth doing? i have a sunset orange ss and i cant decide what color to do... not really wanting to do red... so since the camera doesnt do justice what is the red line look like in person and the needles?
Originally Posted by The Dragon
You have to completely remove the cluster to do this right? How long did it take you?
What are the LED color choices?
What are the LED color choices?
color choices are blue, red, and hyperwhite.
12-22-2005, 07:29 AM
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I still can't figure out why people would want to go through all the trouble of soldering and/or using hot glue when you can just order the wedge based LED's. Using the wedge based LED's you could easily have the gauge cluster (194 bulbs), HVAC(73/74 bulbs), doors(73/74 bulbs), and shift indicator(73/74 bulbs) on A4's done it less then an hour. The headlight switch is a pain in the *** and for that I like LS1_SS's led, but doing the rest like that just doesn't make sense to me. Not to mention you can just as easily return the lights back to stock if you've used the wedge based LED's. That's not so easy once you've soldered regular LED's on.
Last edited by King James; 12-22-2005 at 11:09 AM.
12-22-2005, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by LETHL_SS
Yes you have to pull the cluster all the way out but you dont need to take it apart once its out. The bulb sockets are located in the back panel. It took me about 45 mins to do the speed-o sockets like pictured above but I tried siliconing them in place first and didnt like how they turned out. One was constantly loose so I soldered it and reinstalled it. Tapped on the speed o and another came loose and thats when I took the other 4 out and did them as well. If I soldered from the start it would have taken less time.
color choices are blue, red, and hyperwhite.
Where did you order?
Originally Posted by King James
I still can't figure out why people would want to go through all the trouble of soldering and/or using hot glue when you can just order the wedge based LED's. Using the wedge based LED's you could easily have the gauge cluster (194 bulbs), HVAC(73/74 bulbs), doors(73/74 bulbs), and shift indicator(73/74 bulbs) on A4's done it less then an hour. The headlight switch is a pain in the *** and for that I like LS1_SS's led, but doing the rest like that just doesn't make sense to me. Not to mention you can just as easily return the lights back to stock if you've used the wedge based LED's. That's not so easy once you've soldered regular LED's on.
12-22-2005, 01:22 PM
#14
Originally Posted by The Dragon
What are the "wedge-based LED'S" and what is the difference in luminescence, if any, from the one's mentioned in this thread?
Scroll about halfway down, a little more than halfway actually... it's 1 LED in the base of the 194 bulb, as far as I know brightness is the same.
12-22-2005, 01:38 PM
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I've have had LED's from LS1_SS and the ones from superbrightled.com. I'm sure he'll disagree with me, but in my experience the wedge based LED's from superbrightled.com where noticeably brighter and cheaper.
12-22-2005, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by meissenation
http://www.superbrightleds.com/1157.htm
Scroll about halfway down, a little more than halfway actually... it's 1 LED in the base of the 194 bulb, as far as I know brightness is the same.
Scroll about halfway down, a little more than halfway actually... it's 1 LED in the base of the 194 bulb, as far as I know brightness is the same.
Thanks again!
12-22-2005, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by meissenation
http://www.superbrightleds.com/1157.htm
Scroll about halfway down, a little more than halfway actually... it's 1 LED in the base of the 194 bulb, as far as I know brightness is the same.
Scroll about halfway down, a little more than halfway actually... it's 1 LED in the base of the 194 bulb, as far as I know brightness is the same.