Claybar guru's in here please...
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Claybar guru's in here please...
Strangely enough, a search on claybar didn't give me much info, so humor me guys. I washed my truck over the weekend and noticed what looks like overspray ALL over my truck....not visable unless you're looking for it, but I CAN SEE IT!! Where I work, I'm forced to park next to a construction site, and I'm pretty sure that's where I picked it up. Regardless, I'm ASSUMING I should be looking into claybarring the truck. I've NEVER done this before and I'm looking for advice. The truck is listed in my sig, it's a sharp black with grey on bottom (sorry guys, it's a Ford). I've always taken steps to preserve my paint by a wax every two months, wash regularly....just never ventured into the claybar. So any tips on how to use it would be appreciated. Also, where do I even get this stuff? Thanks guys!
Ken
Ken
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Wash your mammoth of a truck with non carnuba soap and dry. The mothers kit comes with claybar, spraywax aka quick detailer. What you do is spray one area of your truck..so start on the door spray the whole door with the spraywax then take your claybar and go in one motion either vertical or horzontal. if they area your going over dries up then just spray some more. once you see your bar getting dirty use other side..once that side gets dirty fold the bar in half and smoosh it flat now thats its flat its a little easier to use and will mold too your hand. thats pretty much it. Once your done get a terry cloth and any spray thats left over and just mist your truck and wipe to a really deep shine. it comes out smooth, you wouldnt believe how much crap there is in the air that attached to the paint.
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Wash the truck
Clay the truck
Wax the truck (over the clay)
Before you do it put your hand inside of a plastic bag and go over the truck, you'll feel nasty grain and stuff. After you're done it should feel alot less 'grainy'. The key is to keep the surface and the clay wet when working with the clay bar, you don't need to do a section at a time.. clay the whole truck then wax the whole thing, just make sure it's in a shaded area.
Clay the truck
Wax the truck (over the clay)
Before you do it put your hand inside of a plastic bag and go over the truck, you'll feel nasty grain and stuff. After you're done it should feel alot less 'grainy'. The key is to keep the surface and the clay wet when working with the clay bar, you don't need to do a section at a time.. clay the whole truck then wax the whole thing, just make sure it's in a shaded area.
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Yup..that about covers it. If your truck is loaded with deep dirt, then you can actually feel it gripping onto the clay bar....it sorta feels "crunchy" when you go over a surface like that. After a while the clay bar just glides over....at that point you know you're close to having removed most of the dirt in the section you are working on. I usually worn a square foot section at a time, then, after doing the plastic bag test, I move on. When I am done with a panel, I spray the whole thing down and wipe all the excess off. Move on panel by panel till the car is done, then wax it, I use Zaino, and I usually put on 3 coats at a time using ZFX.
Oh....should you ever drop the claybar on the ground, DO NOT USE IT AGAIN. Throw it away. Once any dirt gets in it you won't be able to get it out, and you will just scratch the hell out of your paint.
So the most important things to remember are:
- Don't use a bar that's been dropped on the floor
- Keep the section you are working on well lubricated which is why I do a small section at a time.
- Turn the clay bar over frequently and fold it into itself so that you don't scratch your paint.
You'll be amazed how much smoother the paint will feel, especially after you waxed it.
Manny
Oh....should you ever drop the claybar on the ground, DO NOT USE IT AGAIN. Throw it away. Once any dirt gets in it you won't be able to get it out, and you will just scratch the hell out of your paint.
So the most important things to remember are:
- Don't use a bar that's been dropped on the floor
- Keep the section you are working on well lubricated which is why I do a small section at a time.
- Turn the clay bar over frequently and fold it into itself so that you don't scratch your paint.
You'll be amazed how much smoother the paint will feel, especially after you waxed it.
Manny
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Originally Posted by the right formula
Thanks for the advice guys....weather permitting, I'll be trying it out this weekend!
Considering what you're claying....that will take a while! Good luck!
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Originally Posted by MannyZ28
Considering what you're claying....that will take a while! Good luck!
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Originally Posted by tbird31
I do wash, clay, wash, wax, polish...it takes forever. but i get the existing clay off the car before i wax it...
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Originally Posted by EviLS1
There's no need at all to wash after the clay if you're waxing, also polishing before the wax might be better.. at the detail shop I use to work at we'd wash,clay,glaze(polish),wax
yeah that the way it goes
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I barred my car last year. It was amazing what it took off the paint. You could see the bar turn colors as it accumulated years of grime and filth.
I, however, thought the spray stuff that is recommended a huge PITA. I wound up using lots of soapy wash water. It's cheap, easy to make, plentiful, and worked like crazy. Just keep it wet and soapy and it goes real fast. You get a feel for it real quick.
I, however, thought the spray stuff that is recommended a huge PITA. I wound up using lots of soapy wash water. It's cheap, easy to make, plentiful, and worked like crazy. Just keep it wet and soapy and it goes real fast. You get a feel for it real quick.
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its better to use a small cap full of good carwash soap instead of the detail spray and mix in a spray bottle of water. it makes it a little slicker and easyer to use snd the clay don't stick as much.make shure and do it in the shade the rewash it after then polish.hope this helps
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Originally Posted by pjb
does anybody else have problems with the claying sticking and smearing on the car?
The brand "Clay Magic" is the best clay bar that I've used, it's much less "sticky than the other bars like Mothers.
Ranking them, I'd say Mothers is the stickiest, Autopia's was decent, Clay Magic was the best.
Also the lubricants provided with the clay bars are nothing more than soapy water, so make your own if you have to, but keep the paint lubed up.
My process goes like this, wash, clay, wash, dry, wax, polish, sealant, etc. When I clay, I work around the car just like I would if I were washing it. Start at the cleanest part of the car: roof, hood, above the trim line on the sides, front bumper, below trim line on sides, the rear bumper, and finally around the wheel wells.
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I had some trouble with the clay sticking to the car. It's a bear to get off. The bar will pick some of it back up, but the rest I had to scrub off very carefully. Still, it took a couple of washings until I got it all.
The best way to prevent that is to use a lot of soapy water and be careful.
The best way to prevent that is to use a lot of soapy water and be careful.
#18
Originally Posted by FAST LS1
Clay bars from Mothers seem the worst about smearing and sticking. Their clay is too "sticky" IMO.
The brand "Clay Magic" is the best clay bar that I've used, it's much less "sticky than the other bars like Mothers.
Ranking them, I'd say Mothers is the stickiest, Autopia's was decent, Clay Magic was the best.
Also the lubricants provided with the clay bars are nothing more than soapy water, so make your own if you have to, but keep the paint lubed up.
My process goes like this, wash, clay, wash, dry, wax, polish, sealant, etc. When I clay, I work around the car just like I would if I were washing it. Start at the cleanest part of the car: roof, hood, above the trim line on the sides, front bumper, below trim line on sides, the rear bumper, and finally around the wheel wells.
The brand "Clay Magic" is the best clay bar that I've used, it's much less "sticky than the other bars like Mothers.
Ranking them, I'd say Mothers is the stickiest, Autopia's was decent, Clay Magic was the best.
Also the lubricants provided with the clay bars are nothing more than soapy water, so make your own if you have to, but keep the paint lubed up.
My process goes like this, wash, clay, wash, dry, wax, polish, sealant, etc. When I clay, I work around the car just like I would if I were washing it. Start at the cleanest part of the car: roof, hood, above the trim line on the sides, front bumper, below trim line on sides, the rear bumper, and finally around the wheel wells.
I thought it was just me. This makes me feel better.
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lube lube lube......no seriously
as long as you keep the area lubed so the clay can slide over it, you will be good.
(I havent ever had a problem with mothers clay bar like others have said.)
as long as you keep the area lubed so the clay can slide over it, you will be good.
(I havent ever had a problem with mothers clay bar like others have said.)
#20
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance-detailing/450079-menzerna-zaino-pics.html
heres pics and my steps on my black 05 f150
heres pics and my steps on my black 05 f150