Z95m6

iTrader: (1)

I finally got sick and tired of my old black, ugly, leaking stock valve covers and i bought these off ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=4632073447
I haven't gotten them yet but i've seen a set in person and they looked pretty good. The only problem is i'm kind of lazy when it comes to cleaning and would like to keep these covers looking good with out polishing them every week or so. Would these covers look worth a damn if i just rattle can cleared them? If not any other recommendations on what i should do? I just want something that looks pretty good, it doesn't have to be show room quality. Thanks

thesoundandthefury

iTrader: (3)

Have you ever seen a set of aluminum wheels that had been let go for awhile without being cleaned/repolished? That hazy, cloudy look they get? That's how your valve covers will look if you rattle can clearcoat them. Any clearcoat that gets put on aluminum has to be put on in optimal conditions, (ultra clean environment, right temp, low humidity, downdraft, spraybake), in order for it to look worth a crap. And that's with HVLP equipment that has been "tuned" to get the right balance of volume and pressure. This of course is after the aluminum itself has been cleaned anally enough with denatured alchohol that all remants of fingerprints and oil and any other contaminants are removed. Even if all these conditions are met and a flawless paintjob is layed down, the finish is still dulled a little bit.

You could always Zoopseal em.

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

Perfectly layed out good points on all aspects except the Zoopseal.

Zoop will not stand up to engine heat. (valvecovers) I've researched the Zoopseal ability in the past. ~Joshua

You just have to stay on top of the valvecovers by hand once per month or twice per year if it's never driven in rain. Mine sits in the garage and it's about one year since I've touched mine except to wipe off dust and pollen. It looks almost like the day it was done. Can't notice any oxidation. I may go over it by hand in a couple months though.

Z95m6

iTrader: (1)

Damn that sucks, is it possible to just get them chromed? or is that gonna just be pissing in the wind as well.

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

Chroming is going to double what you paid for the covers, but they will clean right up like new if you spit on 'em One good part is that you've already gotten them smooth (polished, a mandatory step) I can get them chromed, and it wont cost as much, because the polish work is done already. I can give you a quote Monday. Let me know. ~Joshua

Z95m6

iTrader: (1)

Well if you can get me a quote let me know. I've had some stuff chromed locally for a pretty fair price. I remember the guy telling me that most of the cost is from the polishing before the chroming.

parbreak

iTrader: (17)

Josh,

Can you "re-chrome" pieces that have already been chromed and can you chrome pieces that are anodized?

Bryan

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

You can rechrome, but you have to de-activate already chromed parts. Then recondition to ready them for the new dip. Not all shops can do that.

If you have anodized pieces the anodize will have to be bead blasted off, final polish, and dip. ~Joshua

thesoundandthefury

iTrader: (3)

I'm not trying to step on anybody's toes, but this was taken directly from Zoopseal's website:

From the testimonials section:

October 9, 2003
I am writing to tell you about what has happened when I put your aluminum sealer on my 1940 Ford Sedan Delivery. It has been more than two years since my wife and I put the sealer on the wheels, valve covers, air cleaner, sill plates, Briz bumpers, pulleys, polished A/C lines, A/C pump, and alternator. We still had some left to do some new parts for a 1949 Chev project. This stuff covered a lot of parts. The real reason I am contacting you is that here we are 28 months later, over 20,000 miles and our treated parts look like we did them last week! This stuff is really a blessing if you like polished aluminum, there is no more black rags and hands from all the every event cleaning. Keep the good stuff coming!!

Dave Kent
Salem, Oregon
http://www.zoopseal.com/zoopseal_feedback.asp

From the FAQ section:

Is ZoopSeal heat safe?
Yes, it is heat safe up to 400 degrees.
http://www.zoopseal.com/zoopseal_faq.asp

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

Yeah I know. I read that too. When I called Eastwood and spoke to a good friend there, I asked him about the Zoop on engine parts. (because I was interested) and he said that it's "bs" about it being Ok on engine parts.

His words were, "been there, done that." We didn't talk about Zoop anymore when it came to engine parts.

If you daily drive your car with rain grime washing into the engine bay, see if Zoop is still protecting...

If it's a fair weather car (like the testimonial) then he'll never know, because mine RAW looks like it did one year ago.

parbreak

iTrader: (17)

Did he say exactly what it was about ZoopSeal and engine heat that doesn't work well together. I have a brand new box that I was going to use on some billet valvecovers I'm having custom made. I'm just curious as to whether it breaks down, runs off or what because regular automotive paint will hold up just fine to the heat of valvecovers.

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

I never talked it over with him. (He's not a details oriented person like us.)

If I had to analize the issue, I'd put money down that is has to do with the coating burning off over a short time with high heat. It may be able to withstand 400 degree heat, but for how long?

On rims you can go 1-2 years depending on wear. Again, it's a matter of the coating going away with time. I'd say that the time period would be lowered dramaticaly if applied to an engine of a daily driven car.

Z95m6

iTrader: (1)

Could you get me a quote i called most of the reputable platers around here and they all say they won't/can't do aluminum. I still have one or 2 places left to try but i want to keep my options open. Also whats the turn around time on them.