Not bad for stock valve covers - LS1TECH



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Not bad for stock valve covers

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Old 05-09-2006, 08:17 PM   #1
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Cool Not bad for stock valve covers

Got bored not doing anything with the car yet so I decided to do some cleaning. I'm not done yet. Gonna give it another round of buffing then start on the other
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Old 05-09-2006, 08:24 PM   #2
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good @ looks....
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Old 05-09-2006, 08:24 PM   #3
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Wow, looks much better! I am lazy, so I bought a set polished set off of ebay. Nice work though.
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Old 05-09-2006, 08:31 PM   #4
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Lookin' good man. I painted mine, but wished that they were polished instead.
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Old 05-09-2006, 09:29 PM   #5
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Cool, bro!

I'm lazy, and broke... so my valve covers are still the same as ever.
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Old 05-09-2006, 09:39 PM   #6
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And here are the 2 together
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Old 05-09-2006, 10:35 PM   #7
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Looks good! I did mine 2yrs ago and they still look as good as then. Get some nicer bolts for the coil packs and other stuff. Ace Hardware has a good supply of shiney metric bolts.
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Old 05-09-2006, 10:37 PM   #8
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i did the same mod, no hp. but relocate your coils and you will be OH SO HAPPY!
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Old 05-09-2006, 10:41 PM   #9
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Ok I'm gonna ask the typical question... what tool and polish did you use?
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Old 05-10-2006, 12:44 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Ok I'm gonna ask the typical question... what tool and polish did you use?
I did the same to the covers on my '98. I used a die-grinder with a fine wirewheel (made for cordless drills). It's not supossed to go over 2500 rpms, I was turning 25,000.

Make sure you wear safety glasses and what not.

I also did the outside of my throttle body and outsides of the MAF ends. I've got a new set of 99+ valve covers on the way that I plan on doing the same thing with. I'll post up some pictures of how it's done.

I'm not sure what this guy did, but mine look more or less the same, and it only took about 10-15 minutes per side if you keep at it.

Pics of Greddy Catch-Can Install. (!56k)

There's some pics in that thread, but they don't give the valve covers credit. I've done 2 different throttle bodies, both turned out nice.
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Old 05-10-2006, 06:46 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Ok I'm gonna ask the typical question... what tool and polish did you use?
I have a big industrial bench top buffer with 1 wheel that cuts and smooths, the other polishes. Each has a block of clay material that you dress the wheel with. The pic doesn't quite show it but it's almost a chrome/mirror finish. I'll give them one more round of polishing then be done.
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Old 05-10-2006, 09:38 AM   #12
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I wonder is I took mine off and just used mothers alum polish, rag, and some elbow grease how mine would turn out
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Old 05-10-2006, 10:11 AM   #13
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That won't smooth it out. You can sand them. Start off using something like a 180 grit and work up to a 600 or higher then try the polish
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Old 05-10-2006, 12:22 PM   #14
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Better than stock, but don't quit your day job.
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Old 05-10-2006, 06:22 PM   #15
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They're not done yet...plus I don't want to pay for chrome when I have so much free time :-)
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Old 05-10-2006, 08:07 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80superbu
They're not done yet...plus I don't want to pay for chrome when I have so much free time :-)
I'm just pulling your chain, I'm so glad to see someone actually learn the polishing technique.

I've wrote countless books of advice and products to use through pm's and posts and almost none spend just the minimum $100 needed to get the basic power supplies that I guide them to.

My sig says Chrome+P but the engine in the sig is totally polished.

You just need to sand a bit more in the grooves, go all the way down to 1200 grit paper and use this pad only from Eastwood from start to final buff along with tripoli only and use very light pressure on the part during the final go over with the same buff using your favorite paste polish.


I know you'll get to the next level with just these two items, especially the ventilated buff, it "slaps" the part.

Buff Wheel Yellow Treated Ventilated

For Fastest Cut On Contoured Hard or Soft Metals
Faster Cutting, Longer Lasting Treated Buffs - Our new line of treated buffs work faster, longer than non-treated buffs. Suitable for faster material removal, these wheels take the place of standard and ventilated buffs. Used with Stainless Steel Compound (13001) or Tripoli Compound (13135). Great on hard or soft metals!
13231 Buff Wheel 8" Yellow Treated Ventilated 1/2" Hole $9.99

Buffing Compound-Tripoli

For Medium Cutting Action on Aluminum and Other Soft Metals

Tripoli is ideal for soft aluminum, brass, pot metal, pewter, and more. The medium cutting action is aggressive enough to remove 220 grit and finer scratches. Tripoli is usually used on Spiral sewn cotton wheels (treated and untreated) as well as treated and untreated buffs. It also works well on mini buffs and felt bobs. This compound is usually followed by White Rouge Compound. Made in the USA.

11926 Buffing Compound-Tripoli-1lb Bars, 3 Pack $13.99
13135 Buff Compound Tripoli 13 oz Tube $6.99


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buffs, chrome, covers, l46, ls1, polish, silverado, spiral, stock, treated, valve, ventilated

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