6-Speed Terror

iTrader: (4)

does anyone know where to get clear headlamps for a 99 ta to install hid lights or can it be done with original sealed beams and break the back part of them.

VIP1

A search will get you all the info you need.

Here are two threads (containing many links) to get you started:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....76&postcount=5
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance-detailing/491749-ls1-firebird-headlight-upgrades-general-guide.html

The first one is kinda old, but a search will turn up all the newer threads. Since then, others have attempted projector setups.

Transamin00

iTrader: (1)

well new sealed beam headlights arent truely sealed beam anymore, you can buy new ones and pop the bulbs out now.

VIP1

Thats covered in one of the links above.
I've done it too.

98_Formula

iTrader: (15)

what bulbs did you use? that'd be nice if you could get bulbs that just pop in

VIP1

They dont just pop in.
I followed the write-up to modify a set of 4703 sealed beams to accept H7 bulbs. I sealed it with copper colored high temp silicone. Instead of cutting/splicing the stock wiring, I cut the spades of the H7 bulbs to match the spades of the 4703 and cut off the plastic nib protruding from the plastic connector (in the stock wiring harness) so its all plug-n-play. I've noiticed some condensation in mine. I think I need to drill a couple small vent holes in the bottom.

98_Formula

iTrader: (15)

maybe i'll have to try that... maybe i'm missing somethign but the one link posted goes to a guy that is trying to black out his tail lights... ???

Divergent Lightning

iTrader: (6)

I wouldn't suggest putting in HID unless you are going to be putting projectors into the car as well. Projectors make all the difference in the world.

VIP1

Huh
Dammit, that site must have gone through a change and re-used IDs.

Basically buy sealed beam headlight units that have a glass lens with a metal housing. There'll be a white silicone cyliner on the back with the leads poking out. I think the ones I bought are either Phillips or Wagner from AutoZone. Cut off the white silocone. You'll see that the bulb is held in with a screw. Remove the screw and pull out the bulb. Enlarge the hole (a grinding stone in a dremel works best) so that the H7 bulb sits in the hole with the outermost lip sitting flush against the metal housing of the unit. Make sure the hole stays centered and uniform as you enlarge it. Also test fit often to make sure you dont make the hole too large. Make sure the H7 bulb's filament is oriented the same way as the old bulb's filament. Then seal it all up with high temp silicone. Also seal up the "groove" in the back of the H7 bulb so that water doesnt pool in it when the headlights are down. Let it sit overnite to cure. Then cut the H7's spades to match the width and pattern of the 4703's bulb's spades (they are thinner and slightly staggered). Cut the small protruding plastic nib from the stock plastic connector and install the new units. Use some dielectric grease on the connection.

Thats a rough write-up from memory.

I think the H7's position isnt exactly right in the housing though since the beam pattern has a high brite spot instead of being even/uniform. Its still brighter than stock and not blinding to oncoming traffic since the light is still shown in a similar manner to the stock bulbs. I might have to experiment with the depth of the bulb in the housing.

VIP1

I did some searching and found the thread again....
http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...ead.php?t=1545
I used 4703 Low Beams sealed beam units and Sylvania XtraVision H7 bulbs. My other deviations are outlined in my previous post above.

VIP1

Looks like they changed the site again and now the link is wrong again. If I find the new link, I'll post it.