LT1 guys, Relocating Fuel Rail Lines
09-04-2006, 10:52 PM
#5
Here is mine, I just came up with something on my own. I have a write-up about it that I can post for you.
To complete the fuel line and the EVAP line delete modification, I used Pure Choice Motorsports (www.performanceplumbing.com) fuel line AN fitting adapters (part #5800) to adapt the -6AN fittings to the fuel rail feed and return line and also to adapt the -6AN fittings and braided lines to the hard lines under the car. The Pure Choice fittings slid right on the fuel rail but for the hard lines under the car, I had to use some very fine sandpaper and then some fine steel wool to get them to slide on. I don’t really know why this is, because they are the same style line fittings. I don’t know if it as just because of all of the buildup from the road grime, salt, sand and etc., but that it what was done to get them on. After removing the driver’s side inner fender, you expose the stock fuel lines and you can easily remove them and the EVAP line. The EVAP line runs with the stock fuel lines from a hard connection beside them under the car on the driver’s side to the intake manifold where it separates and attaches to a module and vacuum line. I simply removed the EVAP module and the lines completely, used plugs to plug the extra openings in the intake and used a rubber cap to cap off the hard line under the car next to the fuel lines. You will throw a code on this but I was going to have a tune done anyway so I just had it tuned out. This really cleans up the engine bay once you delete the fuel lines also. Next, I found a good spot to run the new braided feed and return lines in the inner fender, where the would exit just below the master cylinder. I drilled two holes next to each other just large enough to get the lines through and then used rubber grommets to protect the fuel lines. I attached the lines to the fuel rail after routing them over the top of the master cylinder and then routed them under the car using the location of the stock fuel lines. I then cut the lines to length and attached the last AN fittings and attached them to the hard lines under the car. I have pretty good pictures of all of the lines mounted under the car at this link if you would like to reference them http://img212.exs.cx/gal.php?g=benscar9mx.jpg.
To complete the fuel line and the EVAP line delete modification, I used Pure Choice Motorsports (www.performanceplumbing.com) fuel line AN fitting adapters (part #5800) to adapt the -6AN fittings to the fuel rail feed and return line and also to adapt the -6AN fittings and braided lines to the hard lines under the car. The Pure Choice fittings slid right on the fuel rail but for the hard lines under the car, I had to use some very fine sandpaper and then some fine steel wool to get them to slide on. I don’t really know why this is, because they are the same style line fittings. I don’t know if it as just because of all of the buildup from the road grime, salt, sand and etc., but that it what was done to get them on. After removing the driver’s side inner fender, you expose the stock fuel lines and you can easily remove them and the EVAP line. The EVAP line runs with the stock fuel lines from a hard connection beside them under the car on the driver’s side to the intake manifold where it separates and attaches to a module and vacuum line. I simply removed the EVAP module and the lines completely, used plugs to plug the extra openings in the intake and used a rubber cap to cap off the hard line under the car next to the fuel lines. You will throw a code on this but I was going to have a tune done anyway so I just had it tuned out. This really cleans up the engine bay once you delete the fuel lines also. Next, I found a good spot to run the new braided feed and return lines in the inner fender, where the would exit just below the master cylinder. I drilled two holes next to each other just large enough to get the lines through and then used rubber grommets to protect the fuel lines. I attached the lines to the fuel rail after routing them over the top of the master cylinder and then routed them under the car using the location of the stock fuel lines. I then cut the lines to length and attached the last AN fittings and attached them to the hard lines under the car. I have pretty good pictures of all of the lines mounted under the car at this link if you would like to reference them http://img212.exs.cx/gal.php?g=benscar9mx.jpg.
09-05-2006, 12:16 AM
#7
Hell yeah, that is one of the best I've seen yet, not to mention the car as a whole. Thanks for all the help and the link. This may be a little more difficult than I thought. I was able to do the hood latch wire and plan to do teh wires on the other side too.
n2oblkz- is it required to buy those different fittings and lines for this mod? Also, where did you get the alternator parts, are they MBA?
n2oblkz- is it required to buy those different fittings and lines for this mod? Also, where did you get the alternator parts, are they MBA?
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09-05-2006, 07:19 AM
#8
Originally Posted by Evaporate
Hell yeah, that is one of the best I've seen yet, not to mention the car as a whole. Thanks for all the help and the link. This may be a little more difficult than I thought. I was able to do the hood latch wire and plan to do teh wires on the other side too.
n2oblkz- is it required to buy those different fittings and lines for this mod? Also, where did you get the alternator parts, are they MBA?
n2oblkz- is it required to buy those different fittings and lines for this mod? Also, where did you get the alternator parts, are they MBA?
It's not very difficult at all. It was probably one of the easier mods that I have done, it was just a little time consuming. I would say that you would have to use new lines. The stock lines would be too long for the route that I used with mine and since they are plastic, they may kink if you try to bend them too much. Unfortunately, the lines and fittings are pretty much a must. I got the alternator from www.performancechrome.com and I think it is a Tuff Stuff chromed and I just had the stock alternator bracket ceramic coated.
EDIT: I just checked the link and it looks like PerformanceChrome.com is out of business. But anyway, it is just as aftermarket chrome alternator.
09-05-2006, 12:29 PM
#10
Originally Posted by SLPHawk300
where'd you get the battery cover from? All i can find are red and yellow...
09-05-2006, 12:35 PM
#11
Also, for anyone wanting to install an Optima cover on an Optima red top in and LT1 car (Camaro anyway), the outside edge of the battery cover, the forward edge closest to the passenger side fender and front bumper (or if you are standing at the front of the car facing it, the front left corner) needs to be ground down a little for hood clearance. At least this is what I had to do with mine with my stock hood. I don't know about aftermarket hoods or stock hoods on the LT1 Firebirds but this is what needed to be done on my car. I think the LS1's have a little advantage as far as hood clearance.
09-07-2006, 05:14 PM
#13
Originally Posted by lt1_man
Where can I find a write up with pictures on where you ran all the wires in your engine bay. Your car looks really clean good job.
-Brandon
-Brandon
Here you go:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance-detailing/173263-completed-wire-mod-tutorial-inside.html
