4l80e shift kit ? about the check balls
02-01-2009, 12:01 AM
#1
4l80e shift kit ? about the check ***** we are puting in the transgo hd2 kit. the instructions show us where to put the "7" check *****. problem is there are 8 in there now. the 8th one that they are not talking about in the directions is right next to the acumulator cover. to make things even more confusing if you look at the crappy pics that came with the instructions it looks like there is a check ball in that location.
do we leave it or get rid of it?
do we leave it or get rid of it?
02-01-2009, 12:22 AM
#4
With that kit they have you leave 1 ball out. It is the one by the front band servo. There is one other location in the case very close to this position that in early models had a ball as well. Do not install a ball in either location. Follow the directions and you will be fine. Vince
02-01-2009, 12:24 AM
#5
thanks for the quick reply. since i got you guys on here i got another one.
the last page of the instructions is for upgrades "if the trans is apart". we are a little leary of taking the front of the tranny apart but it is out and on the bench so we could.
what do those springs in the direct clutch drum do? is it worth taking the tranny apart to do this mod? also shows drilling a hole in the pump stator, drilling a larger hole near the front seal and lastly puting in a new intermediate snap ring.
i didn't do any of that internal stuff in my truck and got into the mid 10's at 5000lbs. how important are those last few "internal" steps?
the last page of the instructions is for upgrades "if the trans is apart". we are a little leary of taking the front of the tranny apart but it is out and on the bench so we could.
what do those springs in the direct clutch drum do? is it worth taking the tranny apart to do this mod? also shows drilling a hole in the pump stator, drilling a larger hole near the front seal and lastly puting in a new intermediate snap ring.
i didn't do any of that internal stuff in my truck and got into the mid 10's at 5000lbs. how important are those last few "internal" steps?
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02-01-2009, 12:32 AM
#8
Don't drill the hole in the pump stator.
The drainback hole for the seal, I've never seen one blow on a 4L80E, so I don't do that either.
The HD direct return springs are to prevent centrifugal apply of the directs. If this is a sub 6000 rpm combo, don't worry about it. I usually drill a bleed in the drum in lieu of the springs.
The snap ring is good practice but if you don't set the 1-2 shift to kill, it should be fine without it.
The drainback hole for the seal, I've never seen one blow on a 4L80E, so I don't do that either.
The HD direct return springs are to prevent centrifugal apply of the directs. If this is a sub 6000 rpm combo, don't worry about it. I usually drill a bleed in the drum in lieu of the springs.
The snap ring is good practice but if you don't set the 1-2 shift to kill, it should be fine without it.
02-01-2009, 12:37 AM
#9
Don't drill the hole in the pump stator.
The drainback hole for the seal, I've never seen one blow on a 4L80E, so I don't do that either.
The HD direct return springs are to prevent centrifugal apply of the directs. If this is a sub 6000 rpm combo, don't worry about it. I usually drill a bleed in the drum in lieu of the springs.
The snap ring is good practice but if you don't set the 1-2 shift to kill, it should be fine without it.
The drainback hole for the seal, I've never seen one blow on a 4L80E, so I don't do that either.
The HD direct return springs are to prevent centrifugal apply of the directs. If this is a sub 6000 rpm combo, don't worry about it. I usually drill a bleed in the drum in lieu of the springs.
The snap ring is good practice but if you don't set the 1-2 shift to kill, it should be fine without it.
+1 on not drilling the large holes in the pump. Not needed. The small .040-.050 hole for full time lube is ok to do.
02-01-2009, 12:37 AM
#10
these mods are for our nova wagon project. trying to get by cheap this year. see if we can really toast it before sending it off to vince
btw we got the car fired up and running on the squirt yesterday. converter from circle D was shiped on friday. tranny should be in the car next weekend. driveshaft a week after that. wont be long now
btw we got the car fired up and running on the squirt yesterday. converter from circle D was shiped on friday. tranny should be in the car next weekend. driveshaft a week after that. wont be long now
, this should be fun. 
02-01-2009, 12:55 AM
#16
that pic of the instructions if funny. it is almost the exact same page but ours doesn't mention leaving that ball out and also doesn't say where that washer goes for the "new 4th bolt". i wonder if out kit has been sitting on the shelf for awhile.
02-01-2009, 12:58 AM
#18
geek has been over here a little but mostly it is the new super geek doing all the computer stuff, you know John the fairmont driver. he is doing all kinds of crazy stuff. touch screens, can bus, phased fueling, multi speed fans and fuel pumps... a bunch of other stuff that i over my head.
02-01-2009, 01:02 AM
#20
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Don't drill the hole in the pump stator.
The drainback hole for the seal, I've never seen one blow on a 4L80E, so I don't do that either.
The HD direct return springs are to prevent centrifugal apply of the directs. If this is a sub 6000 rpm combo, don't worry about it. I usually drill a bleed in the drum in lieu of the springs.
The snap ring is good practice but if you don't set the 1-2 shift to kill, it should be fine without it.
The drainback hole for the seal, I've never seen one blow on a 4L80E, so I don't do that either.
The HD direct return springs are to prevent centrifugal apply of the directs. If this is a sub 6000 rpm combo, don't worry about it. I usually drill a bleed in the drum in lieu of the springs.
The snap ring is good practice but if you don't set the 1-2 shift to kill, it should be fine without it.
