4L80E in the UK with a Trans Go Manual Valve conversion
07-14-2009, 11:54 AM
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4L80E in the UK with a Trans Go Manual Valve conversion I had 4L80E from a 96 truck rebuilt by a guy in the UK and he seemed to have done a good job apart from having no 1st or 4th gear. He did it using parts I orderd drom the US inc a shift kit.
I thought I ordered a kit that makes shifts faster and better as well as some really good internal parts.
I get P,N,R,2 and 3 and TCC lockup.
I swapped solenoids and also got a new controller from PCS and a new harness.
A friend sent the valve body off to a guy in the Netherlands and he told me that the builder had done a manual valve body conversion, resumably because of the kit I had ordered.
Would this cause my problems? He is rebuilding the valve body and I should have it in the truck on Thursday (GMC Typhoon)
I am so annoyed with it and really hope this fixes things.
Thanks in advance,
Mark
I thought I ordered a kit that makes shifts faster and better as well as some really good internal parts.
I get P,N,R,2 and 3 and TCC lockup.
I swapped solenoids and also got a new controller from PCS and a new harness.
A friend sent the valve body off to a guy in the Netherlands and he told me that the builder had done a manual valve body conversion, resumably because of the kit I had ordered.
Would this cause my problems? He is rebuilding the valve body and I should have it in the truck on Thursday (GMC Typhoon)
I am so annoyed with it and really hope this fixes things.
Thanks in advance,
Mark
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07-14-2009, 01:19 PM
#2
What kit did you order?
If you ordered the -3 kit (full manual) then it won't work with a controller or harness, the only electronic part used in the -3 kit is the tcc. (the converter is not controlled by a computer, just a resistor, push button, and brake switch)
If you ordered the -3 kit (full manual) then it won't work with a controller or harness, the only electronic part used in the -3 kit is the tcc. (the converter is not controlled by a computer, just a resistor, push button, and brake switch)
07-14-2009, 02:10 PM
#3
Agreed if its the full manaul conversion TRANSGO 3 then you cannot have power going to the solenoids , Though it is possible to still allow the PCM to controll lockup. Try unplugging the harness and shifting manually see if you have all gears then?
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07-14-2009, 03:24 PM
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how do you shift manually?
I have a feeling it was the transgo 3 kit. I have ordered a new valve body for it (96 trans) so hoping that will fix it. I want to stick with the controller.
Sounds like what you were describing. The TCC was locking up but the solenoids weren't doing so well. I had 2 and 3 but no 1st or 4th.
What a headache!
So what kit do I need? I put some good stuff in it and thought the shift kid would be good - did I mean a reprogramming kit? I am looking for some good track use and a bit of street now and again.
In my defence the builder had no idea why it wasn't working either.
Thanks again guys
I have a feeling it was the transgo 3 kit. I have ordered a new valve body for it (96 trans) so hoping that will fix it. I want to stick with the controller.
Sounds like what you were describing. The TCC was locking up but the solenoids weren't doing so well. I had 2 and 3 but no 1st or 4th.
What a headache!
So what kit do I need? I put some good stuff in it and thought the shift kid would be good - did I mean a reprogramming kit? I am looking for some good track use and a bit of street now and again.
In my defence the builder had no idea why it wasn't working either.
Thanks again guys
07-15-2009, 02:47 AM
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funny ****, i hate it when you order something fancy, and than it seems too fancy too work.
j/k man, btw i'm the guy from the netherlands that took the valvebody off.
lol
j/k man, btw i'm the guy from the netherlands that took the valvebody off.
lol
07-15-2009, 08:10 AM
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is there anywhere that I can read the instructions for both the kits? I downloaded all 4L80E info from Transgo.com but there wasn't anything on the 2 or 3 kit.
I think I got caught out by the naming - "kit 2 presumably isn't as good as kit 3" I must have thought....
Shame they are chalk and cheese. This mistake has cost me $1600 so far. Great.
I think I got caught out by the naming - "kit 2 presumably isn't as good as kit 3" I must have thought....
Shame they are chalk and cheese. This mistake has cost me $1600 so far. Great.
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07-15-2009, 12:56 PM
#8
Save your money. Don't order a HD-2 kit. If you have another valve body to go back together with I'll tell you how to put it together better than the HD-2 kit.
HD-2 kit is an excellent piece but you've already got the bootst valve, PR setup, etc with the -3 kit, keep that.
Put a stock valve body on it, dual feed the directs, and I can give you specific mods to do to it.
Do you have a stock seperator plate to work with?
HD-2 kit is an excellent piece but you've already got the bootst valve, PR setup, etc with the -3 kit, keep that.
Put a stock valve body on it, dual feed the directs, and I can give you specific mods to do to it.
Do you have a stock seperator plate to work with?
07-16-2009, 05:39 AM
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Save your money. Don't order a HD-2 kit. If you have another valve body to go back together with I'll tell you how to put it together better than the HD-2 kit.
HD-2 kit is an excellent piece but you've already got the bootst valve, PR setup, etc with the -3 kit, keep that.
Put a stock valve body on it, dual feed the directs, and I can give you specific mods to do to it.
Do you have a stock seperator plate to work with?
HD-2 kit is an excellent piece but you've already got the bootst valve, PR setup, etc with the -3 kit, keep that.
Put a stock valve body on it, dual feed the directs, and I can give you specific mods to do to it.
Do you have a stock seperator plate to work with?
thanks,, i'm waiting for the stock valvebody and the modded hd3 one at the moment, i think it will include the stock seperator plate as well. otherwise it won't work ,i think?
first i will try the stock valvebody and see if it works, if it does i can always put the hd3 goodies in the stock valvebody.
07-16-2009, 11:22 AM
#11
You will need a stock seperator plate, you don't want to swap anything over from the HD-3 VB to the stock VB.
Leave the stock VB stock. Don't do the pressure relief, don't mess with the shift valves (they are for full manual).
You can swap over the plug in the end of the manual valve bore by the actuator feed filter, that's the only piece you might want to do and it's not mandatory.
Put new solenoids on the VB after cleaning it, and if you have the means, ream the actuator feed limit valve bore and install a new valve.
Go into the transmission, remove the center seal in the direct drum, 2nd sealing ring back from the front of trans on the center support, re-assemble it.
Leave the -3 kit pressure regulator spring and boost valve in place in the pump.
Look at the stock plate closely. Be SURE no idiot has drilled the solenoid feed holes out. Two very small holes at the back of the plate. Common for hack shops to do.
It WILL create issues, especially with the extra pressure the PR setup has.
Drill the "A, B,C" holes from the transGo -3 instructions in the new plate.
.125", .140", and .090-.100" respectively. Smaller if this is a stock application.
Block the 2-3 accumulator piston in place with a piece of tubing 2.700" long. This cleans up the 3rd gear shift from the greater volume of fluid needed for the dual fed 3rd clutches and in general makes it firmer. If it's a stock towing application, leave it as is.
Leave the stock VB stock. Don't do the pressure relief, don't mess with the shift valves (they are for full manual).
You can swap over the plug in the end of the manual valve bore by the actuator feed filter, that's the only piece you might want to do and it's not mandatory.
Put new solenoids on the VB after cleaning it, and if you have the means, ream the actuator feed limit valve bore and install a new valve.
Go into the transmission, remove the center seal in the direct drum, 2nd sealing ring back from the front of trans on the center support, re-assemble it.
Leave the -3 kit pressure regulator spring and boost valve in place in the pump.
Look at the stock plate closely. Be SURE no idiot has drilled the solenoid feed holes out. Two very small holes at the back of the plate. Common for hack shops to do.
It WILL create issues, especially with the extra pressure the PR setup has.
Drill the "A, B,C" holes from the transGo -3 instructions in the new plate.
.125", .140", and .090-.100" respectively. Smaller if this is a stock application.
Block the 2-3 accumulator piston in place with a piece of tubing 2.700" long. This cleans up the 3rd gear shift from the greater volume of fluid needed for the dual fed 3rd clutches and in general makes it firmer. If it's a stock towing application, leave it as is.
07-17-2009, 07:24 AM
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You will need a stock seperator plate, you don't want to swap anything over from the HD-3 VB to the stock VB.
Leave the stock VB stock. Don't do the pressure relief, don't mess with the shift valves (they are for full manual).
You can swap over the plug in the end of the manual valve bore by the actuator feed filter, that's the only piece you might want to do and it's not mandatory.
Put new solenoids on the VB after cleaning it, and if you have the means, ream the actuator feed limit valve bore and install a new valve.
Go into the transmission, remove the center seal in the direct drum, 2nd sealing ring back from the front of trans on the center support, re-assemble it.
Leave the -3 kit pressure regulator spring and boost valve in place in the pump.
Look at the stock plate closely. Be SURE no idiot has drilled the solenoid feed holes out. Two very small holes at the back of the plate. Common for hack shops to do.
It WILL create issues, especially with the extra pressure the PR setup has.
Drill the "A, B,C" holes from the transGo -3 instructions in the new plate.
.125", .140", and .090-.100" respectively. Smaller if this is a stock application.
Block the 2-3 accumulator piston in place with a piece of tubing 2.700" long. This cleans up the 3rd gear shift from the greater volume of fluid needed for the dual fed 3rd clutches and in general makes it firmer. If it's a stock towing application, leave it as is.
Leave the stock VB stock. Don't do the pressure relief, don't mess with the shift valves (they are for full manual).
You can swap over the plug in the end of the manual valve bore by the actuator feed filter, that's the only piece you might want to do and it's not mandatory.
Put new solenoids on the VB after cleaning it, and if you have the means, ream the actuator feed limit valve bore and install a new valve.
Go into the transmission, remove the center seal in the direct drum, 2nd sealing ring back from the front of trans on the center support, re-assemble it.
Leave the -3 kit pressure regulator spring and boost valve in place in the pump.
Look at the stock plate closely. Be SURE no idiot has drilled the solenoid feed holes out. Two very small holes at the back of the plate. Common for hack shops to do.
It WILL create issues, especially with the extra pressure the PR setup has.
Drill the "A, B,C" holes from the transGo -3 instructions in the new plate.
.125", .140", and .090-.100" respectively. Smaller if this is a stock application.
Block the 2-3 accumulator piston in place with a piece of tubing 2.700" long. This cleans up the 3rd gear shift from the greater volume of fluid needed for the dual fed 3rd clutches and in general makes it firmer. If it's a stock towing application, leave it as is.
Thanks for the time in posting this - much appreciated. Like bezerk said above, it seems to be working good - let's just hope it got put back together right internally or
I get to boost launch my Typhoon next week!
