OEM flexplate bolts suck? What to use?
12-30-2009, 08:36 PM
#1
OEM flexplate bolts suck? What to use? I have ARP flexplate bolts for a ls1 but they are too short for my 6.0 lq4 crank. With that being said the only ones i can buy are the oem bolts from that motor that are longer but i seen a couple posts that when used with a TCI flexplate they come loose, break etc. IS this true? If so does ARP make longer bolts for this or what do i do?
12-31-2009, 07:31 AM
#2
Jerry call arp and see what they have for you. When bolts come loose I generally think that lock tight was not used or the holes were not clean when it was. You could always measure the oem bolts and then order arp's per the length and size that you have determined. Vince
12-31-2009, 07:33 AM
#3
ARP,s website has diff length bolts and their meas
i have a TCI plate, it came with longer bolts, but they were metric, my stroker used American bolts
i orig had a crank/spacer/flywheel setup (LQ4) using a turbo 400 style converter, the flywheel i used had a spacer built on, replaced the fact. spacer setup, and like i said, came with bolts-but ck ARP's site, they have all the measurments, might find something
i have a TCI plate, it came with longer bolts, but they were metric, my stroker used American bolts
i orig had a crank/spacer/flywheel setup (LQ4) using a turbo 400 style converter, the flywheel i used had a spacer built on, replaced the fact. spacer setup, and like i said, came with bolts-but ck ARP's site, they have all the measurments, might find something
12-31-2009, 04:53 PM
#6
was just on there site and they dont sell any m11x1.5 besides for a ls flexplate which i have already but are too short. I dont mind using the oem truck ones if they hold up and not break. Sucks there $5/ea but if i need um ill order um if there fine to use. Or Vince, you dont have any at the shop do ya?
01-01-2010, 07:50 AM
#7
Sorry Jerry only transmission stuff here.
I would think that the truck bolts will be just fine. BTW
hows the car coming? The last time I saw pictures of it it looked like a skeleton!
Are you going to get it done this year and get to the track?
Ok personal joke. Take care man and let me know if you need anything. Hope you had a good new years. Vince
I would think that the truck bolts will be just fine. BTWhows the car coming? The last time I saw pictures of it it looked like a skeleton! Are you going to get it done this year and get to the track? Ok personal joke. Take care man and let me know if you need anything. Hope you had a good new years. Vince Trending Topics
01-01-2010, 10:30 AM
#8
i better have it done this year! Not to much left. Went to mock up my trans and i overlooked something and broke my bellhousing so my buddy is real good friends with Dean@DRC so hes gonna fix it for me. Thought about calling you guys but didnt know how much th350 stuff you guys do ya know. But once thats in and all this is figured the entire driveline is done. Then need to wire it and give it fuel and a few odds n ends stuff and should be reay to at least fire. Hope you guys had a good new years also!
01-02-2010, 07:01 AM
#10
curious what setup your using-is it the .400 spacer bet the crank and flywheel, and a "standard" thick flywheel, or the TCI flywheel with a spacer on it
i orig had on my 6.0 a stock spacer, .400, stock 4l80e flywheel, and stock long GM bolts-i orig couldnt find longer ARP bolts for that setup-i think the GM bolts are 10.5 hardness, or whatever metric hardness is-i actually reused the ones that came on the engine i built, so they were used, and i hammered on the car pretty good, just swapped in the TCI f/p when i installed the stroker engine
TCI makes a F/W for a 4l80e, comes with an installed spacer to replace the ..400 one, bolts, and a spacer to go bet the crank/conv. snout (which i had to use since eliminating the orig spacer which my converter was made for) as said, i had to use American bolts because of the Scatt stroker crank
i was talking to JC at ATI, i know he was carrying some diff lengths of flywheel bolts, i forget what size, i may have to email him for a selection, see if anything diff than ARP, i know they make a f/w, spacer and bolt setup, so they may have something-the bolts you have are prob .800+? i thought the stick f/w bolts might have been longer, but seem to be the same, maybe a diff shoulder length-GM sure could have made this a little easier, lol
i orig had on my 6.0 a stock spacer, .400, stock 4l80e flywheel, and stock long GM bolts-i orig couldnt find longer ARP bolts for that setup-i think the GM bolts are 10.5 hardness, or whatever metric hardness is-i actually reused the ones that came on the engine i built, so they were used, and i hammered on the car pretty good, just swapped in the TCI f/p when i installed the stroker engine
TCI makes a F/W for a 4l80e, comes with an installed spacer to replace the ..400 one, bolts, and a spacer to go bet the crank/conv. snout (which i had to use since eliminating the orig spacer which my converter was made for) as said, i had to use American bolts because of the Scatt stroker crank
i was talking to JC at ATI, i know he was carrying some diff lengths of flywheel bolts, i forget what size, i may have to email him for a selection, see if anything diff than ARP, i know they make a f/w, spacer and bolt setup, so they may have something-the bolts you have are prob .800+? i thought the stick f/w bolts might have been longer, but seem to be the same, maybe a diff shoulder length-GM sure could have made this a little easier, lol
01-02-2010, 11:27 AM
#13
forcd ind.. my conbo is a 6.0 (i believe with the extended crank) and a TCI flexplate, th350 with a Vig. gen1 converter (off a lt1 car). The TC bolts to the FP just fine. Fill me in here, does the TCI FP have the spacer intergraded on it already? I ask because there is a shoulder on it where it bolts to the crank and if so AND i have the older 6.0 crank thats extended...is my FP gonna sit out too far now? And whats the PN for the super long FP bolts for the older style 6.0?? They gotta be like 3/4 in. longer then ls1 bolts.
01-02-2010, 11:52 AM
#15
well theres 2 things that im thinking abut...
1-will my FP be too far off the crank so the TC will bottom out on the FP before the trans is completly bolted down? We only want about a 1/8 gap between the TC and FP when the trans is bolted to the block?
2-I thought the spacer was to space out the FP to close the gap between that and the TC, but aparently not, lol. Its to hold the snout of the converter up in the crank?
Sorry but on a forum its a little confusing and giving me a headach. Anyone have pics that would help? But mainly i want to order the bolts cause im getting my trans back monday or tuesday and want to order the bolts i need.
1-will my FP be too far off the crank so the TC will bottom out on the FP before the trans is completly bolted down? We only want about a 1/8 gap between the TC and FP when the trans is bolted to the block?
2-I thought the spacer was to space out the FP to close the gap between that and the TC, but aparently not, lol. Its to hold the snout of the converter up in the crank?
Sorry but on a forum its a little confusing and giving me a headach. Anyone have pics that would help? But mainly i want to order the bolts cause im getting my trans back monday or tuesday and want to order the bolts i need.
01-02-2010, 02:58 PM
#16
here are some pics, one of the back of my old 6.0 w/o the spacer, end of crank is aprx 1/4 out from seal, another of a 4l80e f/w with the spacer on it, and a pick of the side of the motor showing the block and flywheel
from the back of the block to the back of the f/w where the teeth are, is aprx 7/16", the proper dist. for the starter
the GM bolts for the spacer setup are 28MM long, i think LS1 are aprx 24 MM long-you need to determine if you have a long crank or spacer
from the back of the block to the back of the f/w where the teeth are, is aprx 7/16", the proper dist. for the starter
the GM bolts for the spacer setup are 28MM long, i think LS1 are aprx 24 MM long-you need to determine if you have a long crank or spacer
01-03-2010, 09:32 PM
#17
well this is the FP i have....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TC...3/?image=large
and this is what the rear of my crank looks like. Notice how deep the threads start in the crank. Between that and the thickness of the FP the stock ls1 flywheel bolts only grab by 1 thread then the head bottoms out on the FP.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TC...3/?image=large
and this is what the rear of my crank looks like. Notice how deep the threads start in the crank. Between that and the thickness of the FP the stock ls1 flywheel bolts only grab by 1 thread then the head bottoms out on the FP.
01-04-2010, 07:39 AM
#18
it looks like a rem. spacer-there are 6 unthreaded holes thru the spacer, then the threaded crank-if you look, there are 2 holes in the spacer with threads, screw bolts in them, and it should pull the spacer off-then depending on what flywheel/converter you have you can fix it up-look at my pic of the flywheel, you will see it looks just like the one on the back of your engine, and see the parting line back by the seal
with the ex spacer you have, you can use a stock 4l80e flywheel, long stock bolts, turbo 400 style converter (snout) or rem the spacer and use stuff for like an LS 1, no spacer-were getting close, lol
that flywheel doesnt need the spacer on the crank, but depending on the converter, might need a spacer on the trans side to reg the converter
with the ex spacer you have, you can use a stock 4l80e flywheel, long stock bolts, turbo 400 style converter (snout) or rem the spacer and use stuff for like an LS 1, no spacer-were getting close, lol
that flywheel doesnt need the spacer on the crank, but depending on the converter, might need a spacer on the trans side to reg the converter
Last edited by forcd ind; 01-04-2010 at 07:46 AM.
01-04-2010, 06:48 PM
#19
lol deff. getting somewhere! I see what your talkin about with that spacer on my crank and the one on ure flexplate. So i wonder then if i leave that spacer on my crank and get the longer 4l80e bolts then i can use my TCI flexplate (i already have it and not gonna run a 4l80 flexplate and downgrade) and my VIG. converter with no spacers or anything?..hummm.... My converter bolts up to my flexplate and my flexplate bolts to my crank, just that spacer on the crank then is the deciding factor. Or pull that spacer off and run it "ls1 style" with my ARP flexplate bolts i already have. Everything on these motors are interchangable but the trans/converter/crank combo, lol.
01-04-2010, 06:55 PM
#20
remember the distance from the back of the block to the backside of the teeth on the flywheel, aprx 3/8-7/16 or the starter wont work-w/o the spacer, just the TCI f/w might be the right distance, but you will have to ck it
def make you down a few beers, lol
def make you down a few beers, lol