When my tranny goes...
#1
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When my tranny goes...
I am anticipating that if I keep modding *(3000 stall/cooler soon) my 4l60e will not be able to take it for long. As opposed to getting the stock one "built" (which I've heard good and bad about), what type of swap can I go with that is:
A) cost effective (comparitively speaking of course lol)
and
B) is bullet proof (aka-able to take heads/cam, stall, and not shatter the rear)
?
I was thinking 4l80e?
A) cost effective (comparitively speaking of course lol)
and
B) is bullet proof (aka-able to take heads/cam, stall, and not shatter the rear)
?
I was thinking 4l80e?
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Well typically the higher the stage a transmission is advertised, the more expensive it is, the stronger it will be
Figure out your future mods and get it built right the first time. Never can get your tranny overbuilt.
Figure out your future mods and get it built right the first time. Never can get your tranny overbuilt.
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well for a h/c/i car you will want to upgrade your band, clutch packs, steels, a trans go hd2 shift kit, .500 mega boost valve, a cooler is a must on a high stall speed converter, it can run you roughly $1k
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Ok thanks guys. So there is no advantage to a 80e swap? I am thinking that I'll do the trans build before the converter if that's the case. Since it wouldn't make sense to blow up the stocker and have to replace the converter AND the trans If I'm going to rebuild the 60e I'll just do the converter after that. If I am swapping trans to a different one then I'll install the converter on the existing stocker and see how long it holds on with a cooler.
#7
Stage 1 is fine for a stock setup. Stage 2 usually can handle up to 550-600rwhp and stage 3s are full race and usually have to be shifted manually. Stage 1 & 2 are usually shifted by the cars CPU.
I wasted money twice on getting my 4L60E rebuilt locally. Always hitting the rev limiter. And they were built using the Raybestos Z-pack clutches and the Transgo shift kits and the extra heavy duty 2/4 bands and they NEVER worked right.. A stock 4L60E is good in a stock Camaro and thats about it. Save your money and buy an aftermarket unit if you plan on increasing you RWHP. After I put in my Stage 2 I had no more rev limiter problems and the shifts were dead on. I sold my recent rebuilt 4L60E to somebody with a stock setup and it shifted perfectly. So I don't the 4L60E can't take the pressure when the RWHP gets to high. Just my 2 cents worth.
I wasted money twice on getting my 4L60E rebuilt locally. Always hitting the rev limiter. And they were built using the Raybestos Z-pack clutches and the Transgo shift kits and the extra heavy duty 2/4 bands and they NEVER worked right.. A stock 4L60E is good in a stock Camaro and thats about it. Save your money and buy an aftermarket unit if you plan on increasing you RWHP. After I put in my Stage 2 I had no more rev limiter problems and the shifts were dead on. I sold my recent rebuilt 4L60E to somebody with a stock setup and it shifted perfectly. So I don't the 4L60E can't take the pressure when the RWHP gets to high. Just my 2 cents worth.
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Another option is to simply wait until my unit grenades and then do the stall AND tranny all at once. This one would make the most sense in terms of not doing anything twice (and I get to convince the girlfriend easier if mine is blown up ). The only downside I can think of if I wait until it blows to get the whole "kit n kaboodle" is the fact that I would have to wait lol. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
On a side note: Is it easy to do a 80e swap? Is it cheaper? How much rwhp will it hold? Just curious on comparing it with the 60e in our cars is all.
Thanks again folks.
On a side note: Is it easy to do a 80e swap? Is it cheaper? How much rwhp will it hold? Just curious on comparing it with the 60e in our cars is all.
Thanks again folks.
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a 4L80E will be stronger than the 4L60E stock for stock, but once some modifications have been done to the 4L60E it can hold alot of power, common high horsepower upgrades are 13 vane pump, 5 pinion front and rear planet gears, with all the modifications that can be done a 4L60E could hold around 800hp
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The 4L80e is BIG and heavy and is hard to get to even fit from my understanding. It sucks more HP to run it too. I believe you need a particular converter/flexplate combo to get it to work properly behind an LS1. And stock I have heard they arent that strong. So you would still need to pay someone to go through it so you have accomplished nothing but causing yourself a lot more of a pain in the ***. I say the 80s are for high HP cars and trucks that get a good beating regularily. 60s are fine for everyone else.