broke my sprag
04-30-2010, 02:04 PM
#1
broke my sprag i didnt even realize there was a tranny section and i been here since like 06!!! i was beating on my 77 firebird (mild 350 w/ the usual stuff) and it has a b&m trans with about 3k on it.
just thought i would share some pics of the carnage. i have never ebuilt a trans before but how hard could it be?
i got another th350 with a cracked bellhousing for free and tore that trans down and the sprag is nice. and imgoing to use the forward drum (the first one behind the pump?) since my old one has a groove in it. the guy at aamco told me that b&m uses teflon seals and that was what caused the groove that ruined the pump. anyone know much about that?
just thought i would share some pics of the carnage. i have never ebuilt a trans before but how hard could it be?
i got another th350 with a cracked bellhousing for free and tore that trans down and the sprag is nice. and imgoing to use the forward drum (the first one behind the pump?) since my old one has a groove in it. the guy at aamco told me that b&m uses teflon seals and that was what caused the groove that ruined the pump. anyone know much about that?
04-30-2010, 02:30 PM
#2
i brought my case to aamco so they could hot tank it. and the guy asked me to bring in the drum so he could check it and where the shaft goes through it there is a groove worn into tthe drum. he told me b&m uses teflon seals on the input shaft (why i dont remember) but he said the problem with the teflon seals is they caus ewear like that.
and im a little confused about the parts because i have never rebuilt a trans before. i thought there was two sprags and that the sprag was the part with the roller bearings and the accordian type springs that only let it turn one way. when i took apart my trans when i pulled the pump the snap ring was not attatched to the drum anymore and there was nothing at all behing the shiny thing thats all bent in the first picture. and the ring that goes around (the clutch, roller, sprag ????) that the frictions go on was cracked and the three frictions were bent.
so i broke whatever that thing that only spins one way in the ring is. i called tci and they said that it was a freak thing that it broke (at my power level) and that i only needed the upgraded sprag/drum deal ($400 i dont have) if i was making over 500 hp. im probably onyl making a little over 300 so i dont understand why your saying this thing (not sure what to call it) will break right away again.
could you explain why it will break?
not trying to sound like a dumbass just tryring to learn.
and im a little confused about the parts because i have never rebuilt a trans before. i thought there was two sprags and that the sprag was the part with the roller bearings and the accordian type springs that only let it turn one way. when i took apart my trans when i pulled the pump the snap ring was not attatched to the drum anymore and there was nothing at all behing the shiny thing thats all bent in the first picture. and the ring that goes around (the clutch, roller, sprag ????) that the frictions go on was cracked and the three frictions were bent.
so i broke whatever that thing that only spins one way in the ring is. i called tci and they said that it was a freak thing that it broke (at my power level) and that i only needed the upgraded sprag/drum deal ($400 i dont have) if i was making over 500 hp. im probably onyl making a little over 300 so i dont understand why your saying this thing (not sure what to call it) will break right away again.
could you explain why it will break?
not trying to sound like a dumbass just tryring to learn.
04-30-2010, 10:29 PM
#5
dude, im not trying to be an ***, im just rying to learn. im estimating about 300 hp. not because it came factory with that but because its a mild 350 with 2.02 1.60 heads with a pocket port and 3 angle valve job, a decent cam edelbrock intake and carb , headers and dual exhaust. its probably about 300 or a little more.
your first post sounded like you were saying it was just gonna break so why put a stock part in there at all. im laid off and this is a daily driver to get where i need to go. if i had 400 bucks laying around i would spring for it or better yet if i had that kinda money i would just build a 2004r and never have to worry about it again.
sorry you think im pissing in your cherios or something, so i will stop asking any questions.
your first post sounded like you were saying it was just gonna break so why put a stock part in there at all. im laid off and this is a daily driver to get where i need to go. if i had 400 bucks laying around i would spring for it or better yet if i had that kinda money i would just build a 2004r and never have to worry about it again.
sorry you think im pissing in your cherios or something, so i will stop asking any questions.
05-01-2010, 07:22 AM
#6
For what it's worth I have seen stock low HP vehicles break the stock intermediate race. I believe manual down shifts and also manual up shifts might be the culprit. Reason being is line pressure is boosted in manual 1st and 2nd positions. I personally if not using a big dollar drum like the hardened race that Bro is talking about. It is cheap insurance IMO.
As for the Teflon seals I have never seen one wear out a bore like a steel ring will. I think the guy at aamco is totally wrong here. It is possible that the unit you are working on was damaged before the previous build and was left this way. Another thing to consider is if the bushings in the stator are bad the ring lands might be what is rubbing in the drums.
I would look at this a bit more before just bolting it back together. In some cases the problem is more than just what is broke. Good luck with your build. Vince
As for the Teflon seals I have never seen one wear out a bore like a steel ring will. I think the guy at aamco is totally wrong here. It is possible that the unit you are working on was damaged before the previous build and was left this way. Another thing to consider is if the bushings in the stator are bad the ring lands might be what is rubbing in the drums.
I would look at this a bit more before just bolting it back together. In some cases the problem is more than just what is broke. Good luck with your build. Vince
05-01-2010, 08:35 AM
#7
Wow,
Not ONE but TWO trans professionals "wasting their spare" time in this thread.
"Bro Inc",
you should let it go, welcome to the world of automatic transmissions. Just because nobody could diagnose your 4L60E problem online and give you free advice doesn't mean that nobody was willing or tried to help.
Sometimes you have to learn things on your own, the hard way, by a step by step elimination. ALL of us professional builders have had to do it, more than once.
To the OP,
The B&M kits setup a harsh 1-2 shift as previously stated.
The hardened sprag race is good insurance. I build up a sprag type drum for the higher power units I do, using a 36 element sprag and the same hardened sprag race.
However I've got Th350's that live well with the stock roller clutch setup using the hardened outer race at 650+ HP/TQ.
ALWAYS keep the 1-2 accumulator active, that is leave the spring in the side of the case in the 1-2 accumulator bore. The spring does more than just accumulate the shifts as well.
I use a stock plate usually when I do a rebuild. The B&M plate will work as long as the feed holes haven't been drilled too big, they probably have in your case.
Power has less of an effect on sprag breakage than shift calibration and RPM.
Not ONE but TWO trans professionals "wasting their spare" time in this thread.
"Bro Inc",
you should let it go, welcome to the world of automatic transmissions. Just because nobody could diagnose your 4L60E problem online and give you free advice doesn't mean that nobody was willing or tried to help.
Sometimes you have to learn things on your own, the hard way, by a step by step elimination. ALL of us professional builders have had to do it, more than once.
To the OP,
The B&M kits setup a harsh 1-2 shift as previously stated.
The hardened sprag race is good insurance. I build up a sprag type drum for the higher power units I do, using a 36 element sprag and the same hardened sprag race.
However I've got Th350's that live well with the stock roller clutch setup using the hardened outer race at 650+ HP/TQ.
ALWAYS keep the 1-2 accumulator active, that is leave the spring in the side of the case in the 1-2 accumulator bore. The spring does more than just accumulate the shifts as well.
I use a stock plate usually when I do a rebuild. The B&M plate will work as long as the feed holes haven't been drilled too big, they probably have in your case.
Power has less of an effect on sprag breakage than shift calibration and RPM.
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05-01-2010, 12:17 PM
#8
i think i finally understand what the confusion is. there are so many new terms floating around i got confused. i check with tci befor ei ever posted this about the better sprag and they said you can only get it with the drum as a package for 400 bucks and that was what i thought my only option nwas. 400 or stock! now (if im understanding this correctly) you can just replace the race http://http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-328900/ and that by itself will help the trans live a little longer vs. spending 400 bucks?
if thats the case then heck ya i will order one. for 50 bucks i would be foolish not to if it will help this trans survive.
if thats the case then heck ya i will order one. for 50 bucks i would be foolish not to if it will help this trans survive.
05-01-2010, 06:16 PM
#9
Works every time. Just because I said 'no one would' you had to post basically a repeat of what was already said.
Would you spend any time finding pictures and teaching someone over the course of 2 1/2 hours how this stuff all works, no. That was a pain in the *** and it'll never happen again.
Would you spend any time finding pictures and teaching someone over the course of 2 1/2 hours how this stuff all works, no. That was a pain in the *** and it'll never happen again.
I've spent countless hrs helping everything from first time builders to very experienced professionals online, on the phone, or in person.
I've answered tech questions for big name vendors here, and they have answered me as well.
I've spent over an hr on the phone today explaining modifications/machining operations to a first time TH400 builder.
Your post was pretty much correct, it would have been much more helpful if you didn't sound like a bitch trying to be a dick.
05-01-2010, 10:50 PM
#11
Yes,
The heat treated outer race is a good peace of mind addition.
It is actually annealed to be "softer" than stock, so less brittle.
The issue is a TH350 outer race doesn't have as much cross section as other units and the race itself is somewhat weak.
Too many builders try to make them shift killer hard into 2nd. I drill the 2nd feed to .125" max and keep all the checkballs in a TH350. I also keep full 1-2 accumulator function and the cushion steel plate in the intermediates.
The B&M kits would work OK if they didn't advise 3/16 feed holes.
05-01-2010, 10:59 PM
#12
Then you're a dick to the OP for no reason, he was simply lookign for information like you were a few weeks ago.
The truth is,
that as a professional builder, I SHOULD be standing at the trans bench making $70/hr instead of answering any questions online, but it all starts somewhere.
A professional rebuilder took the time to help me from 3000 miles away when I was trying to assemble a 700-R4 on a limited military income over 15 yrs ago. He probably never thought I would be a professional transmission builder specializing in performance units and designing trans parts.
I pass the torch along occasionally on a time available basis.
If you go back and look at who tried to help you a few weeks ago, I did so. You got attitude on a reply and my desire to help went the way of this thread.
05-02-2010, 12:39 AM
#13
He was looking for information and got it.
How would you feel if you talked to a guy on the phone for an hour, then in the end it told you to go screw yourself. Going to have regrets for giving your time for nothing?
And you've got to admit that half the reason you talk to people so much is to try to get business. You've figured out that you're not getting business from me so you can talk to me like ****, but never to a potential customer.
And about my problem, I don't think you knew how to do anything with it. You referenced a 700R4. I know damn well that what worked on 700's don't have the same effect on 4L60E's, and of all you offer on your site theres nothing to do with 4L60E's. I gave up on you.
My last resort is calling someone on the phone, I don't bother people who I never bought anything from.
And I'm a whiney bitch. You know I have my profession as well, I deal professionally with customers all day long, customers that have no clue about their equipment. And I mess around with transmissions as a hobby, I used to. I don't do transmissions for a living. I've built my share of 350's, 400's 700's, a few 4L80E's in the past 17 years. Never called people at random, didn't even have the internet at first. I had no help and made stuff work.
I got tired of it, got rid of all my trans stuff and had a mystery problem with the last automatic I built, sure I was frustrated. I put in 12 to 16 hours a day dealing with an average of 20 people a day. Whiney jew bitches, and I have to keep professional.
Until yesterday I used to like to share what I knew from back then. I spent too much time trying like hell to get through to someone to basically get told to **** off. It looks like I did all the dirty work giving this guy a lesson in how th350's work. over and over and over and it just wasn't sinking in.
So answer this, you step away from the bench and get on the internet, you lose $70 an hour and at the end of it all the guy says screw you and you ended up having gotten nowhere. It's a great feeling. I have one question, and I'm a whiney bitch, I never once said anything bad to this guy here, all I did was answer his question over and over, more god damn frustration I do not need. It's a th350 race for christ sake.
I get $85/hr for my professional services, I answer stupid ******* questions all day long, I argue over repair costs all day long, I have to tell customers why the last guy from my company didn't fix their stuff properly. Do you have customers on your back all day, no. You're in your shop where you can tell customers they're not allowed in the work area. I don't have that option.
My comment about no professional transmission builders replying was based on a PM I got from a sponsor on this site which read: I really do not post info like this often because every do it yourself-er calls the shop looking for free advise. With that being said it does not pay our bills and keeps me from doing what does. I hope you understand. Now that I know who you are and you have helped us in the past I figured a pm was in order.
I've worked in DFW, if I ever come back and your shop needs my services I guarantee you will get a job done right the first time, you can **** and moan about the price or whatever, and I will respond professionally. Thats who I am. What you do for a living I did as a hobby for 17 years, no one does what I do for a living as a hobby.
Your true character came through, I'll never deal with a ***** like you. I don't need to and if I do need to there are plenty of other people out there who treat their customers with respect. Realize that building transmissions don't put food on my plate, it was a hobby, I don't have to be a happy go lucky fake trying to sell myself on every forum on google. As I understand it, this is your career, treat people like **** and it's going to come back to you eventually.
How would you feel if you talked to a guy on the phone for an hour, then in the end it told you to go screw yourself. Going to have regrets for giving your time for nothing?
And you've got to admit that half the reason you talk to people so much is to try to get business. You've figured out that you're not getting business from me so you can talk to me like ****, but never to a potential customer.
And about my problem, I don't think you knew how to do anything with it. You referenced a 700R4. I know damn well that what worked on 700's don't have the same effect on 4L60E's, and of all you offer on your site theres nothing to do with 4L60E's. I gave up on you.
My last resort is calling someone on the phone, I don't bother people who I never bought anything from.
And I'm a whiney bitch. You know I have my profession as well, I deal professionally with customers all day long, customers that have no clue about their equipment. And I mess around with transmissions as a hobby, I used to. I don't do transmissions for a living. I've built my share of 350's, 400's 700's, a few 4L80E's in the past 17 years. Never called people at random, didn't even have the internet at first. I had no help and made stuff work.
I got tired of it, got rid of all my trans stuff and had a mystery problem with the last automatic I built, sure I was frustrated. I put in 12 to 16 hours a day dealing with an average of 20 people a day. Whiney jew bitches, and I have to keep professional.
Until yesterday I used to like to share what I knew from back then. I spent too much time trying like hell to get through to someone to basically get told to **** off. It looks like I did all the dirty work giving this guy a lesson in how th350's work. over and over and over and it just wasn't sinking in.
So answer this, you step away from the bench and get on the internet, you lose $70 an hour and at the end of it all the guy says screw you and you ended up having gotten nowhere. It's a great feeling. I have one question, and I'm a whiney bitch, I never once said anything bad to this guy here, all I did was answer his question over and over, more god damn frustration I do not need. It's a th350 race for christ sake.
I get $85/hr for my professional services, I answer stupid ******* questions all day long, I argue over repair costs all day long, I have to tell customers why the last guy from my company didn't fix their stuff properly. Do you have customers on your back all day, no. You're in your shop where you can tell customers they're not allowed in the work area. I don't have that option.
My comment about no professional transmission builders replying was based on a PM I got from a sponsor on this site which read: I really do not post info like this often because every do it yourself-er calls the shop looking for free advise. With that being said it does not pay our bills and keeps me from doing what does. I hope you understand. Now that I know who you are and you have helped us in the past I figured a pm was in order.
I've worked in DFW, if I ever come back and your shop needs my services I guarantee you will get a job done right the first time, you can **** and moan about the price or whatever, and I will respond professionally. Thats who I am. What you do for a living I did as a hobby for 17 years, no one does what I do for a living as a hobby.
Your true character came through, I'll never deal with a ***** like you. I don't need to and if I do need to there are plenty of other people out there who treat their customers with respect. Realize that building transmissions don't put food on my plate, it was a hobby, I don't have to be a happy go lucky fake trying to sell myself on every forum on google. As I understand it, this is your career, treat people like **** and it's going to come back to you eventually.
to try to help someone online.If you are that frustrated with it, then don't do it, take a break from it, or whatever.
I do occasionally gain business from helping people online, however I have a big enough client base at this time that I don't need to go on every internet forum and try to get business. I'm about 2 weeks out right now on builds if I work 7 days a week, not to mention other projects.
I answer questions on the phone to "non-customers" multiple times a day. I assure you that my hundreds of hours of helping people on the internet has cost me as much in time answering questions on the phone for free as it has ever made me $$. I do have customers on my back, anybody that has ever run a business knows this. I quote a build, set an approx delivery date, and try to keep it.
I did reference a 700 in your post, I scan these posts quickly and answer questions.
I may answer your question in the a.m., come back online 12 hrs later, after building a unit or two, answering questions on the phone or another forum, and forget what trans the question was about. Human mistake.
I build transmissions for mostly 500+ HP applications. I honestly don't spend much time dealing with 700's or 4L60Es anymore because they don't work well in most of the applications I deal with.
I also try to avoid "stepping on toes" on this forum with the guys who DO make their living selling 4L60Es.
It's not my demographic, I'm not here to compete with the forum sponsors on their bread and butter, and I answer questions online for relaxation and the reason I stated previously.
If I build transmissions 14 hrs a day I lose the edge and start making mistakes.
I'm not the only person who has noticed the attitude in your posts recently.
Take a break dude, it's supposed to be a HOBBY for you.
If it's not fun, walk away for awhile.
05-02-2010, 08:06 PM
#15
I have had one TH350 roller clutch break in over 30 years of working on them, so this is what I have seen work.
First, make sure you use the late pump that uses a bearing (there will be a white plastic ring next to the bearing, on the front pump). The reason for the white plastic ring was to keep the direct drum "centered" on the pump, so when the roller clutch came on, it would come on evenly, thereby loading the 8 rollers all at the same time.
Second, always use the waved steel in the intermediate clutch pack.
Third, use the TransGo Performance Shift kit here and stay the hell away from B&M. DO NOT disable the accumulators, and use cast iron sealing rings on all accumulators, not teflon here.
Fourth, use teflon sealing rings on the stator support (no cast iron rings here).
Fifth, if you are going to manually shift this transmission "at all", then take a used low/reverse clutch and remove the clutch material, file flat the high spots and take a hack saw and cut it open and install it under the intermediate clutch apply piston. This will stop the 1-2 WOT shift delay.
Sixth, you will have to replace the direct drum. On the new drum, make sure the rollers have not started to turn sideways in their grooves, if they have, get another drum. Make sure you use the wide bushing in the direct drum. Direct clutch clearance her should be .050" - 070".
Seventh, in the forward drum use the waved steel that has the "three" teeth on the steel. DO NOT use the waved that has "no teeth", as it will put a lot of metal in the fluid as it wears a groove in the drum. Forward clutch clearance here is .030" - .050".
Eighth, the output shaft must use the plastic insert in it and not the bronze bushing. If it has the bushing in it remove it and insert the plastic insert.
Ninth, if you want to strengthen the low/reverse roller clutch, you can go with a 1987 and 700R4/4L60E setup that uses a .150" wider roller setup. Make sure if you do this you have .030" - .060" clutch clearance here.
There is more, but this should give you a good start. Call me if you want on this 909 795-1876. Dana
PS: Jakeshoe, who was that, that helped you out the many years ago?....
First, make sure you use the late pump that uses a bearing (there will be a white plastic ring next to the bearing, on the front pump). The reason for the white plastic ring was to keep the direct drum "centered" on the pump, so when the roller clutch came on, it would come on evenly, thereby loading the 8 rollers all at the same time.
Second, always use the waved steel in the intermediate clutch pack.
Third, use the TransGo Performance Shift kit here and stay the hell away from B&M. DO NOT disable the accumulators, and use cast iron sealing rings on all accumulators, not teflon here.
Fourth, use teflon sealing rings on the stator support (no cast iron rings here).
Fifth, if you are going to manually shift this transmission "at all", then take a used low/reverse clutch and remove the clutch material, file flat the high spots and take a hack saw and cut it open and install it under the intermediate clutch apply piston. This will stop the 1-2 WOT shift delay.
Sixth, you will have to replace the direct drum. On the new drum, make sure the rollers have not started to turn sideways in their grooves, if they have, get another drum. Make sure you use the wide bushing in the direct drum. Direct clutch clearance her should be .050" - 070".
Seventh, in the forward drum use the waved steel that has the "three" teeth on the steel. DO NOT use the waved that has "no teeth", as it will put a lot of metal in the fluid as it wears a groove in the drum. Forward clutch clearance here is .030" - .050".
Eighth, the output shaft must use the plastic insert in it and not the bronze bushing. If it has the bushing in it remove it and insert the plastic insert.
Ninth, if you want to strengthen the low/reverse roller clutch, you can go with a 1987 and 700R4/4L60E setup that uses a .150" wider roller setup. Make sure if you do this you have .030" - .060" clutch clearance here.
There is more, but this should give you a good start. Call me if you want on this 909 795-1876. Dana
PS: Jakeshoe, who was that, that helped you out the many years ago?....
05-02-2010, 10:33 PM
#17
There are 3 professional builders in this thread, who have the experience to back up their advice and aren't giving misguided info and obviously don't have a lack of experience.
I haven't seen too much in the thread that is misinformation. ( I didn't view all the pics). Just that the advice could have been delivered more "helpfully".
Dana,
The guy's name was Leo. From NY.
05-03-2010, 09:09 AM
#18
Fifth, if you are going to manually shift this transmission "at all", then take a used low/reverse clutch and remove the clutch material, file flat the high spots and take a hack saw and cut it open and install it under the intermediate clutch apply piston. This will stop the 1-2 WOT shift delay.
im a little nervouse about this one. cuz i dont quite understand all of it. i know the intermidiate piston is the one on the back of the pump. but im not sure what you mean by "cut it open" do you mean cut the ring in half? because im picturing my self sanding off the friction material and then trying the slice the ring into 2 rings!! and would this change my clearance because other than checking endplay i dont know how you could check clearance on the intermediate, unless this mod doesnt affect the clearance?
Eighth, the output shaft must use the plastic insert in it and not the bronze bushing. If it has the bushing in it remove it and insert the plastic insert.
tiny bit confused, in this case is the word insert and bushing interchangable or is one on the shaft and the other in the case (like the bushing thats in the case right where the rear apply piston is?
dana, i really appreciate all the advice and im not trying to sound ungratefull (the first person that offered some help thought i was ajerk for not getting it right away
) just want to make sure i understand what im doing before i really break something!!
small update with some corrected info, some of which might be better for me. first of i found out its not a
B&M trans. the person i bought the car from just got me all the paperwork (rceipts etc) and they had said it was a b&m trans and its actually a tci streetfoghter 311000 . so hopefully this means that the shift kit is not drilled to big like a b&m. and hopefully better quality. the converter is a tci breakaway also so i know thats better than a b&m because i heard that b&m only rebuilts factory one and tci make brand new one (hence why they cost mor).
also i got a new drum. i drove down to deleware (dover AFB) and got a good used one for free. the dude is air force just like my wife (i guess i should say husband since im the military wife) and when he found out we were military he said if i came and got it i could have it (he was selling it on craigslist).
anyhow i tore that trans down and its really clean insde. roller clutch is minty i will even show a picture (its gold colored? i never new what they looked like cuz all i had was pieces, small pieces). so i got a nice roller clutch a good drum and my hardened race is on its way. my rebuild kit from tci should be here tomorow and my converter im hoping by the end of the week.
im a little nervouse about this one. cuz i dont quite understand all of it. i know the intermidiate piston is the one on the back of the pump. but im not sure what you mean by "cut it open" do you mean cut the ring in half? because im picturing my self sanding off the friction material and then trying the slice the ring into 2 rings!! and would this change my clearance because other than checking endplay i dont know how you could check clearance on the intermediate, unless this mod doesnt affect the clearance?
Eighth, the output shaft must use the plastic insert in it and not the bronze bushing. If it has the bushing in it remove it and insert the plastic insert.
tiny bit confused, in this case is the word insert and bushing interchangable or is one on the shaft and the other in the case (like the bushing thats in the case right where the rear apply piston is?
dana, i really appreciate all the advice and im not trying to sound ungratefull (the first person that offered some help thought i was ajerk for not getting it right away
) just want to make sure i understand what im doing before i really break something!!small update with some corrected info, some of which might be better for me. first of i found out its not a
B&M trans. the person i bought the car from just got me all the paperwork (rceipts etc) and they had said it was a b&m trans and its actually a tci streetfoghter 311000 . so hopefully this means that the shift kit is not drilled to big like a b&m. and hopefully better quality. the converter is a tci breakaway also so i know thats better than a b&m because i heard that b&m only rebuilts factory one and tci make brand new one (hence why they cost mor).
also i got a new drum. i drove down to deleware (dover AFB) and got a good used one for free. the dude is air force just like my wife (i guess i should say husband since im the military wife) and when he found out we were military he said if i came and got it i could have it (he was selling it on craigslist).
anyhow i tore that trans down and its really clean insde. roller clutch is minty i will even show a picture (its gold colored? i never new what they looked like cuz all i had was pieces, small pieces). so i got a nice roller clutch a good drum and my hardened race is on its way. my rebuild kit from tci should be here tomorow and my converter im hoping by the end of the week.
05-03-2010, 08:12 PM
#19
You take the hack saw and make "one" cut so that you have to spread it open to go under the intermediate piston. This is to reduce the clutch clearance. Reducing the clutch clearance will prevent the 1-2 WOT shift delay. The "insert" is the plastic bushing that takes the place of the bronze bushing that goes into the front of the output shaft. The purpose of the insert is to transfer lube, and nothing else. TCI tends to block or eliminate the accumulators. You will have to check into this. It is the elimination of the accumulators that breaks the intermediate roller assembly. The waved steel "preloads" the roller assembly before the clutches are "on". Eliminating the waved steel can break the roller assembly also.
