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Everything you need to know about tranny coolers (4l60E F-Body)
06-21-2010, 12:51 AM
#1
Everything you need to know about tranny coolers (4l60E F-Body) I recently installed a Transmission cooler on my '95 Firebird with a built 4L60E and did quite a bit of research before I bought and installed it, so I decided to do a write up and provide a few links of what seems to be common questions to hopefully save everyone some time.
Buying and installing a tranny cooler is not hard, and anyone with any kind of mechanical know-how and a few hand tools can do it. But first a few notes about transmissions, and transmission coolers.
***GENERAL NOTES***:
-All automatic transmissions, whether stock or modified can benefit from a tranmission cooler.
-Modern automatic transmissions (like the 4L60E) can run anywhere from 150-250 degrees (in some cases even higher)
-Optimal performance/ tranny fluid life typically starts to drop after 175 degrees.
-Cars with aftermarket stalls/torque converters will more than likely need a tranny cooler to avoid transmission damage over time. Sometimes stall companies include a transmission cooler with their stall kits.
-There are 2 main kinds of transmission coolers,
"tube and fin" style (seen here:http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/gr...00002/1405.jpg)
and a "stacked plate" style (seen here:http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Me...00001/4544.jpg)
-While Tube and Fin style coolers are cheaper, they are not as effecient as the Stacked Plate style.
-Manufacturers (including B&M) recommend to run aftermarket coolers in addition to the factory cooler, not to bypass the factory cooler.
***PICKING OUT A TRANNY COOLER:***
Now, picking out a tranny cooler. While many options, sizes, and styles are available, it is best to pick out the biggest tranny cooler you can fit on your car. This is an area where you cannot "over-do" it. Bigger is always better in this case
(as long as it fits on the car, of course.)
The tranny cooler I used was a B&M 70264, which seems to be a popular choice amongst F-Body owners. It is 7.25 inches tall x 11 inches long, and 1.5 inches thick. It is just the perfect size to go in front of your radiator and fill up most of the room on your passenger side, so any tranny cooler around this size should work just fine.
Again, this is a "stacked plate" style tranny cooler, which is a little more expensive, but more effecient than a "tube and fin" style tranny cooler. When I bought this cooler, it was $59.99 plus shipping, so all and all, it's still not all that expensive of an investment, especially considering that it's protecting your transmission.
***GVW RATINGS:***
Most tranny coolers are rated/advertised with a "GVW", which stands for "Gross Vehicle Weight". The cooler I bought (B&M 70264) was rated at 24,000 lbs (most coolers seem to range from 16,000-30,000 ballpark range for GVW ratings.) Obviously my Firebird doesn't weigh anywhere near 24,000 lbs, it's simply just a rating for reference. Some times companies don't even advertise the GVW.
***STOCK COOLING SYSTEM/LINE SETUP ON 4L60E FBODY:***
From the factory, 2 lines come out of the passenger side of the transmission and run to the front of the car. These are your transmission fluid/oil/coolant lines. On a 4L60E, they are placed one on top of the other or "two tall." The bottom line is the "feed line" which runs out of the transmission into the factory in-tank cooler inside the radiator. The feed line connects to the radiator at the bottom of the passenger's side of the radiator. The top line is the "return line" which runs transmission fluid back to the transmission from the factory in-tank radiator cooler. The return line begins at the top of the radiator on the passenger side, and runs back to the transmission.
Here is a simple diagram of the factory setup:
Transmission->Feed line->Radiator(stock cooler)->Return Line->Transmission
***MOUNTING:***
Again, I installed this on my 1995 Firebird Formula, with the 4L60E, the factory automatic 4 speed transmission. Most kits you purchase are universal kits, and not vehicle specific. My kit (B&M 70264) came with all the fittings, hoses, and mounting hardware you'd need to do on most any transmission, it seems. The install was pretty simple, and only took a few hours with me and a couple buddies to complete at a relaxed pace with plenty of beer breaks.
There are 2 popular ways to mount a tranny cooler, in front of the radiator/ac condensor (B&M claims this is the most effecient placement), but many others run it "dope style" which means it is mounted flat under the car under the passenger side of the front bumper. I chose to go with the placement in front of the radiator, due to the fact I feel it is more portected there from rocks/road debris. My install walk through is done fro the traditional mount, but here is a link to a guide on how a "dope style" mount is done:
http://bowlingss.com/Mods/InstalRepa...pe%20Style.mht
Honestly, we probably did a little more work than we "had" to, but we made it plenty easy with enough elbow room for the mounting/install of the tranny cooler. Here's a quick run down of the "pre-mount" preperation:
-Jack the car up, put on jack stands
-Remove passenger side engine fan (4 bolts)
-Remove plastic shield in front of radiator/condensor (2 bolts, 3 pull tabs)
-Remove radiator support/cover on top of the transmission (3 Bolts-?)
(if you have ram air or an LS1 lid setup, you'll obviously have to remove the air filter box as well, however, I left my stock air intake on my '95 during the entire install process)
Now that you have some elbow room, go ahead and figure how you want to mount the cooler itself. I placed mine on the passenger side in front of the radiator/AC condensor, due to the fact that the transmission line (the return line) you'll need to splice into is on the passenger side of the radiator.
Most kits come with "glorified zipties" These are a 2 piece zip tie that include the tie itself and a square "lock" piece to slide over the end to lock it in place. When I had my tranny cooler setting where I wanted it, I pushed the zip ties through the stock holes/mounting tabs on the tranny cooler, and through the AC/Condensor and Radiator fins (no, this won't hurt it) Then you go to the back side of the radiator/ac condensor, push the locks on nice and snug, and cut off the excess line so it doesn't hit your engine fan blades.
Voila, your cooler is mounted, now for the plumbing.
***PLUMBING YOUR TRANNY COOLER:***
It is reccomended by manufacturers and is most efficient to run your tranny cooler in series with the factory cooler, and to not eliminate your factory cooler from the system. To do this, with the cooler itself mounted, you just run hose from the cooler to the top of the radiator where the return line is. Some people drill holes in their air dam to make it "easier", but I was able to run the hoses beside the radiator/condensor on the passenger side no problem-A little snug, but not an issue.
When you get the hose to the top of the radiator, cut it to length, keep it snug, but not tight, as you do not want to kink the hose and restrict flow. You are running this hose to the return line of the transmission. The return line is located at the top side of the radiator, on the passenger side, and is held it with an in-line joint. I used and in-line wrench to loosen this line, and pull it from the radiator.
Once it is disconnected, you'll notice that the stock tranny line "screwed in" to the radiator. My kit came with several barbed fittings, one of which screwed directly into the radiator port where the return line came from. Do not over tighten the barbed fitting, as it is soft brass. Plug your new hose from the tranny cooler into the return line, and clamp both ends tight with hose clamps.
Now take the factory line you just unscrewed from the radiator(the return line), and screw a barbed fitting to that as well. Attach the remainder of the hose you have to the barbed fitting and tighten it with a hose clamp. I was also able to run this line down beside the condensor/radiator right by the other hose from the tranny cooler. Cut to length the hose and attach it to the transmission cooler with another hose clamp. You are now all plumbed up and ready to go
When you are finished with the installation, mounting, and plumbing, your transmission cooling diagram will look like this:
Transmission->Feed line->Radiator(stock cooler)->Aftermarket Tranny Cooler->Return Line->Transmission
It is ideal to splice the transmission cooler into the return line, so that way the coolant flows through the stock in-tank radiator cooler first, then through your aftermarket cooler, then back to the transmission. Because your aftermarket cooler is more effecient than your stock one, this will return the coolest fluid possible back to your transmission.
Notes on plumbing:
-I did not lose any tranny fluid when I removed the line from the transmission, but it is very possible, so have a catch can/oil pan ready.
-Attaching the tranny cooler did not increase the capacity of my transmission noticeably, I did not need to add any transmission fluid after the install, but you will want a quart handy, just in case.
-After plumbing, start the car and check for leaks, as well as the first several times you drive the car, and check good. A leak or broken tranny line could drain a tranny in seconds.
***PICTURES, REFERENCE, LINKS, AND OTHER WALK THROUGHS:***
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/94z/trannycooler.htm
http://www.fbody.com/tech/details.cgi?id=31
http://bowlingss.com/Mods/InstalRepa...pe%20Style.mht
Buying and installing a tranny cooler is not hard, and anyone with any kind of mechanical know-how and a few hand tools can do it. But first a few notes about transmissions, and transmission coolers.
***GENERAL NOTES***:
-All automatic transmissions, whether stock or modified can benefit from a tranmission cooler.
-Modern automatic transmissions (like the 4L60E) can run anywhere from 150-250 degrees (in some cases even higher)
-Optimal performance/ tranny fluid life typically starts to drop after 175 degrees.
-Cars with aftermarket stalls/torque converters will more than likely need a tranny cooler to avoid transmission damage over time. Sometimes stall companies include a transmission cooler with their stall kits.
-There are 2 main kinds of transmission coolers,
"tube and fin" style (seen here:http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/gr...00002/1405.jpg)
and a "stacked plate" style (seen here:http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Me...00001/4544.jpg)
-While Tube and Fin style coolers are cheaper, they are not as effecient as the Stacked Plate style.
-Manufacturers (including B&M) recommend to run aftermarket coolers in addition to the factory cooler, not to bypass the factory cooler.
***PICKING OUT A TRANNY COOLER:***
Now, picking out a tranny cooler. While many options, sizes, and styles are available, it is best to pick out the biggest tranny cooler you can fit on your car. This is an area where you cannot "over-do" it. Bigger is always better in this case
(as long as it fits on the car, of course.) The tranny cooler I used was a B&M 70264, which seems to be a popular choice amongst F-Body owners. It is 7.25 inches tall x 11 inches long, and 1.5 inches thick. It is just the perfect size to go in front of your radiator and fill up most of the room on your passenger side, so any tranny cooler around this size should work just fine.
Again, this is a "stacked plate" style tranny cooler, which is a little more expensive, but more effecient than a "tube and fin" style tranny cooler. When I bought this cooler, it was $59.99 plus shipping, so all and all, it's still not all that expensive of an investment, especially considering that it's protecting your transmission.
***GVW RATINGS:***
Most tranny coolers are rated/advertised with a "GVW", which stands for "Gross Vehicle Weight". The cooler I bought (B&M 70264) was rated at 24,000 lbs (most coolers seem to range from 16,000-30,000 ballpark range for GVW ratings.) Obviously my Firebird doesn't weigh anywhere near 24,000 lbs, it's simply just a rating for reference. Some times companies don't even advertise the GVW.
***STOCK COOLING SYSTEM/LINE SETUP ON 4L60E FBODY:***
From the factory, 2 lines come out of the passenger side of the transmission and run to the front of the car. These are your transmission fluid/oil/coolant lines. On a 4L60E, they are placed one on top of the other or "two tall." The bottom line is the "feed line" which runs out of the transmission into the factory in-tank cooler inside the radiator. The feed line connects to the radiator at the bottom of the passenger's side of the radiator. The top line is the "return line" which runs transmission fluid back to the transmission from the factory in-tank radiator cooler. The return line begins at the top of the radiator on the passenger side, and runs back to the transmission.
Here is a simple diagram of the factory setup:
Transmission->Feed line->Radiator(stock cooler)->Return Line->Transmission
***MOUNTING:***
Again, I installed this on my 1995 Firebird Formula, with the 4L60E, the factory automatic 4 speed transmission. Most kits you purchase are universal kits, and not vehicle specific. My kit (B&M 70264) came with all the fittings, hoses, and mounting hardware you'd need to do on most any transmission, it seems. The install was pretty simple, and only took a few hours with me and a couple buddies to complete at a relaxed pace with plenty of beer breaks.
There are 2 popular ways to mount a tranny cooler, in front of the radiator/ac condensor (B&M claims this is the most effecient placement), but many others run it "dope style" which means it is mounted flat under the car under the passenger side of the front bumper. I chose to go with the placement in front of the radiator, due to the fact I feel it is more portected there from rocks/road debris. My install walk through is done fro the traditional mount, but here is a link to a guide on how a "dope style" mount is done:
http://bowlingss.com/Mods/InstalRepa...pe%20Style.mht
Honestly, we probably did a little more work than we "had" to, but we made it plenty easy with enough elbow room for the mounting/install of the tranny cooler. Here's a quick run down of the "pre-mount" preperation:
-Jack the car up, put on jack stands
-Remove passenger side engine fan (4 bolts)
-Remove plastic shield in front of radiator/condensor (2 bolts, 3 pull tabs)
-Remove radiator support/cover on top of the transmission (3 Bolts-?)
(if you have ram air or an LS1 lid setup, you'll obviously have to remove the air filter box as well, however, I left my stock air intake on my '95 during the entire install process)
Now that you have some elbow room, go ahead and figure how you want to mount the cooler itself. I placed mine on the passenger side in front of the radiator/AC condensor, due to the fact that the transmission line (the return line) you'll need to splice into is on the passenger side of the radiator.
Most kits come with "glorified zipties" These are a 2 piece zip tie that include the tie itself and a square "lock" piece to slide over the end to lock it in place. When I had my tranny cooler setting where I wanted it, I pushed the zip ties through the stock holes/mounting tabs on the tranny cooler, and through the AC/Condensor and Radiator fins (no, this won't hurt it
) Then you go to the back side of the radiator/ac condensor, push the locks on nice and snug, and cut off the excess line so it doesn't hit your engine fan blades.Voila, your cooler is mounted, now for the plumbing.
***PLUMBING YOUR TRANNY COOLER:***
It is reccomended by manufacturers and is most efficient to run your tranny cooler in series with the factory cooler, and to not eliminate your factory cooler from the system. To do this, with the cooler itself mounted, you just run hose from the cooler to the top of the radiator where the return line is. Some people drill holes in their air dam to make it "easier", but I was able to run the hoses beside the radiator/condensor on the passenger side no problem-A little snug, but not an issue.
When you get the hose to the top of the radiator, cut it to length, keep it snug, but not tight, as you do not want to kink the hose and restrict flow. You are running this hose to the return line of the transmission. The return line is located at the top side of the radiator, on the passenger side, and is held it with an in-line joint. I used and in-line wrench to loosen this line, and pull it from the radiator.
Once it is disconnected, you'll notice that the stock tranny line "screwed in" to the radiator. My kit came with several barbed fittings, one of which screwed directly into the radiator port where the return line came from. Do not over tighten the barbed fitting, as it is soft brass. Plug your new hose from the tranny cooler into the return line, and clamp both ends tight with hose clamps.
Now take the factory line you just unscrewed from the radiator(the return line), and screw a barbed fitting to that as well. Attach the remainder of the hose you have to the barbed fitting and tighten it with a hose clamp. I was also able to run this line down beside the condensor/radiator right by the other hose from the tranny cooler. Cut to length the hose and attach it to the transmission cooler with another hose clamp. You are now all plumbed up and ready to go
When you are finished with the installation, mounting, and plumbing, your transmission cooling diagram will look like this:
Transmission->Feed line->Radiator(stock cooler)->Aftermarket Tranny Cooler->Return Line->Transmission
It is ideal to splice the transmission cooler into the return line, so that way the coolant flows through the stock in-tank radiator cooler first, then through your aftermarket cooler, then back to the transmission. Because your aftermarket cooler is more effecient than your stock one, this will return the coolest fluid possible back to your transmission.
Notes on plumbing:
-I did not lose any tranny fluid when I removed the line from the transmission, but it is very possible, so have a catch can/oil pan ready.
-Attaching the tranny cooler did not increase the capacity of my transmission noticeably, I did not need to add any transmission fluid after the install, but you will want a quart handy, just in case.
-After plumbing, start the car and check for leaks, as well as the first several times you drive the car, and check good. A leak or broken tranny line could drain a tranny in seconds.
***PICTURES, REFERENCE, LINKS, AND OTHER WALK THROUGHS:***
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/94z/trannycooler.htm
http://www.fbody.com/tech/details.cgi?id=31
http://bowlingss.com/Mods/InstalRepa...pe%20Style.mht
Last edited by MasterTomos; 06-22-2010 at 01:13 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Jessica Brock (03-04-2023)
06-22-2010, 03:26 AM
#2
so 89 views and not a single comment? Not even a "you suck" or someone point out something thats incorrect/misleading? What gives?
I know this is all info thats been beaten to death and covered many times, just thought I'd put it all in one place.
I know this is all info thats been beaten to death and covered many times, just thought I'd put it all in one place.
Trending Topics
06-22-2010, 01:10 PM
#10
Lol thanks guys, I wasn't sure because I wrote it all out and got finished around 1am so I wasn't sure 100% I was making sense or wording it well. 
I just did a word representation, but that's a definately a much better diagram. I will attach that to the OP, if you don't mind of course...
I just did a word representation, but that's a definately a much better diagram. I will attach that to the OP, if you don't mind of course...
06-22-2010, 01:12 PM
#11
TECH Senior Member
Well researched, good write up, 'you suck' 
my $0.02 comment/question: does anyone give the reasons why or why not to not bypass factory in-radiator cooler...?
my $0.02 comment/question: does anyone give the reasons why or why not to not bypass factory in-radiator cooler...?
06-22-2010, 01:18 PM
#13
@ the first partI believe it's just because of the "2 coolers is better than 1" theory. However, B&M reccomended this (NOT bypassing the original cooler), so I just followed instructions I geuss. I know some people swear by bypassing the OE cooler...IDK what the advantage of that would be.
06-22-2010, 03:21 PM
#14
On The Tree
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Is there any change in the way the tranny performs, ie. better shifts more consistant shifting. This is on my list of things to do and i know its benificial. Very good write up and should be a sticky.
06-22-2010, 05:40 PM
#15
I would definately add a tranny temp gauge while you're at it, so if it does get molten hot at some point for some reason you know it, and you can take it easy or pull over before you grenade yur tranny.
Mine shifts firmer and I can tell the difference when it's below 175 degrees for certain. Mine stays at around 180 in town, and a little lower on the highway. The highest I've seen it at since the cooler install was 185-190 range, and that was 2nd/3rd gear constant shifting with the performance button pushed out on the highway romping around some wicked S curves at 60-90 mph
