4l60E tail housing question
12-09-2010, 01:35 PM
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: MOntreal, Qc
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
4l60E tail housing question I want to put a 4L60E from a 1999 Camaro into a 1987 Cadillac Brougham. For this I would like to modify the actual transmission x-member. But the way the tail housing is designed on the camaro transmission (it seems to be the three horizontal bolt type) makes the job much more complicated.
I would like to switch the tail housing to one that has the two vertical bolts, similar to my 200r4.
From what vehicles can I get that tailhousing? Is it from 2wd trucks?
What is involved? Only removing the six bolts and changing the gasket? Or is there anything else I should be aware, like swapping other parts? For now I don't care that I cannot use the speedometer on the Cadillac, I will eventually buy an electronic one.
I would like to switch the tail housing to one that has the two vertical bolts, similar to my 200r4.
From what vehicles can I get that tailhousing? Is it from 2wd trucks?
What is involved? Only removing the six bolts and changing the gasket? Or is there anything else I should be aware, like swapping other parts? For now I don't care that I cannot use the speedometer on the Cadillac, I will eventually buy an electronic one.
12-09-2010, 01:42 PM
#2
I'm not sure I understand your issue...the tailhousing still mounts to the crossmember by 2 bolts on the underside of the tailhousing. The bolts on the side are for the torque arm which you won't use.
You could get a tailhousing from a 2wd truck if for some reason the side bosses are in your way, but it mounts to the crossmember the same. You will remove the 6 bolts, use a new gasket, and I would hang onto your old VSS as well just in case.
You could get a tailhousing from a 2wd truck if for some reason the side bosses are in your way, but it mounts to the crossmember the same. You will remove the 6 bolts, use a new gasket, and I would hang onto your old VSS as well just in case.
12-09-2010, 02:40 PM
#4
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-4L...item27b6638378
FWIW I just sold an f body tail housing on ebay for $50, get this one, put yours up for sale and possibly break even.
12-09-2010, 03:41 PM
#5
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: MOntreal, Qc
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you very much guys.
I am sorry but I had a brain fart. Only afterwards I realized the transmission still has the two bolts under it. I thought the embosses were the way it mounts, but they are for the torque arm if I am not mistaken.
Once again thank you and sorry for the brain fart!
I am sorry but I had a brain fart. Only afterwards I realized the transmission still has the two bolts under it. I thought the embosses were the way it mounts, but they are for the torque arm if I am not mistaken.
Once again thank you and sorry for the brain fart!
12-09-2010, 03:53 PM
#6
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: MOntreal, Qc
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would like to take advantage of this thread and ask about the engine and transmission angle.
From the S&P site I have the information that it should be 3 degrees down. I am not touching the rear end, maybe put stiffer springs and shocks as well as a sway bar.
I just wanted to see if someone can confirm that the 3 degree angle is correct in my application, street driven and shouldn't see more than 280-340 HP.
From the S&P site I have the information that it should be 3 degrees down. I am not touching the rear end, maybe put stiffer springs and shocks as well as a sway bar.
I just wanted to see if someone can confirm that the 3 degree angle is correct in my application, street driven and shouldn't see more than 280-340 HP.
Trending Topics
12-10-2010, 11:21 AM
#9
Mine is also 3* down but I had to shim it to get there.
But it is also my understanding the trans angle and pinion angle should offset...after calculating working angle into the mix it seems I was stuck giving the pinion either 0-1* UP which is not ideal for traction.
Am I correct I should leave it set this way or would it be safe giving my pinion the proper -2* or -3* angle which should improve my launch?
But it is also my understanding the trans angle and pinion angle should offset...after calculating working angle into the mix it seems I was stuck giving the pinion either 0-1* UP which is not ideal for traction.
Am I correct I should leave it set this way or would it be safe giving my pinion the proper -2* or -3* angle which should improve my launch?
12-10-2010, 12:33 PM
#10
Mine is also 3* down but I had to shim it to get there.
But it is also my understanding the trans angle and pinion angle should offset...after calculating working angle into the mix it seems I was stuck giving the pinion either 0-1* UP which is not ideal for traction.
Am I correct I should leave it set this way or would it be safe giving my pinion the proper -2* or -3* angle which should improve my launch?
But it is also my understanding the trans angle and pinion angle should offset...after calculating working angle into the mix it seems I was stuck giving the pinion either 0-1* UP which is not ideal for traction.
Am I correct I should leave it set this way or would it be safe giving my pinion the proper -2* or -3* angle which should improve my launch?
Your pinion can be pointed up and you can still have a negative pinion angle.
http://www.iedls.com/asp/admin/getFi...&TID=28&FN=PDF
http://buickperformance.com/Pinion.htm
12-10-2010, 02:19 PM
#11
Well that makes more sense. I used to bust tailhousings and destroyed my first built 4l60e. Checked and the tailhousing was -6* or -9*...something crazy so I used 1" thick nuts to shim the tailhousing up. Now it is -1* or -2* (I can't remember atm). The pinion is set almost neutral maybe easing close to +1*.
