Trap Speed after torque converter change?
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#10
Wow. I was not originally planning to buy a stall converter other than the small one that came with my transmission. But, after hearing these testimonials, I can't imagine leaving 6 tenths on the table. Nothing outside of nitrous can give you that much et for that money.
#11
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Wow. I was not originally planning to buy a stall converter other than the small one that came with my transmission. But, after hearing these testimonials, I can't imagine leaving 6 tenths on the table. Nothing outside of nitrous can give you that much et for that money.
#12
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Wow. I was not originally planning to buy a stall converter other than the small one that came with my transmission. But, after hearing these testimonials, I can't imagine leaving 6 tenths on the table. Nothing outside of nitrous can give you that much et for that money.
And yet everyday there are 3-4 threads on what cam to use for a stock stall...
:b ang:
~$700 minimum to do a cam right with everything for the baby cams 3-4 tenths (being generous I think), have an annoying to drive car, lope and run slow, etc
or $700 converter (mine was $450 used) and $30-50 cooler for .5-.8, launch harder, more fun to drive, not wear out brake pads in a couple months, etc and actually allow you to get a serious cam to make more power
#13
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I know right?
And yet everyday there are 3-4 threads on what cam to use for a stock stall...
:b ang:
~$700 minimum to do a cam right with everything for the baby cams 3-4 tenths (being generous I think), have an annoying to drive car, lope and run slow, etc
or $700 converter (mine was $450 used) and $30-50 cooler for .5-.8, launch harder, more fun to drive, not wear out brake pads in a couple months, etc and actually allow you to get a serious cam to make more power
And yet everyday there are 3-4 threads on what cam to use for a stock stall...
:b ang:
~$700 minimum to do a cam right with everything for the baby cams 3-4 tenths (being generous I think), have an annoying to drive car, lope and run slow, etc
or $700 converter (mine was $450 used) and $30-50 cooler for .5-.8, launch harder, more fun to drive, not wear out brake pads in a couple months, etc and actually allow you to get a serious cam to make more power
#14
My only gripe about stall converters is the way they drive and sound around town.
There are all these posts on here about how their 3600 stall drives just like stock until you get on it. These claims are appearing to be slightly rosey eyed reports. I just went on YouTube and watched some of the videos of guys driving around town in their Yank converters and they sound just like the old slush box converters from back when I was racing. The videos I saw on youtube, you can barely even tell when the car shifts at part throttle. All the gears just run together in one long drone.
There are all these posts on here about how their 3600 stall drives just like stock until you get on it. These claims are appearing to be slightly rosey eyed reports. I just went on YouTube and watched some of the videos of guys driving around town in their Yank converters and they sound just like the old slush box converters from back when I was racing. The videos I saw on youtube, you can barely even tell when the car shifts at part throttle. All the gears just run together in one long drone.
#15
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I would post up a video but until I get a box to hook up my speedometer it wouldn't do much good.
I have a Trans-Go kit in mine, and did before with the stock converter. At some rpms the shifts sound like they run together but I feel them plane as day.
Driving calm around town I stay under or around 2k rpm accelerating normal unless I'm on a hill, then I get around 2500-2600rpm. I don't consider that bad for a 3600 stall. Before the stall I would be at 1700-1800 for the same things and 2000-2200 for the hills. I was expecting a much larger gap than a couple hundred rpm, so I was pleasantly surprised with how the car drives. My buddy had a Vig 4000 and his wasn't as enjoyable in the least.
My car is also fairly quiet by most gearhead standards so I guess that helps too.
I wouldn't go back. I would drive a civic before I went back to a stock stalled auto...if I'm going to have a slow gutless turd I at least want 35mpg.
I have a Trans-Go kit in mine, and did before with the stock converter. At some rpms the shifts sound like they run together but I feel them plane as day.
Driving calm around town I stay under or around 2k rpm accelerating normal unless I'm on a hill, then I get around 2500-2600rpm. I don't consider that bad for a 3600 stall. Before the stall I would be at 1700-1800 for the same things and 2000-2200 for the hills. I was expecting a much larger gap than a couple hundred rpm, so I was pleasantly surprised with how the car drives. My buddy had a Vig 4000 and his wasn't as enjoyable in the least.
My car is also fairly quiet by most gearhead standards so I guess that helps too.
I wouldn't go back. I would drive a civic before I went back to a stock stalled auto...if I'm going to have a slow gutless turd I at least want 35mpg.
#16
Post up a video anyway if you would. I will be able to tell by the sound of the engine what is going on.
I am looking at 3 companies right now. Circle D, PTC and Yank. Yank is all the rage on this site, but PTC seems to be the most popular on Yellow Bullet and TurboBuick.com. PTC is nearly 3 hundred bucks cheaper than Circle D and Yank and has every bit as good of a rep, but more in the serious race circles than the street guys.
I am looking at 3 companies right now. Circle D, PTC and Yank. Yank is all the rage on this site, but PTC seems to be the most popular on Yellow Bullet and TurboBuick.com. PTC is nearly 3 hundred bucks cheaper than Circle D and Yank and has every bit as good of a rep, but more in the serious race circles than the street guys.
#18
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No MPH change here. First stall was 3,600 and did drive super close to stock.
Second stall is a 4,000. Does not drive like stock, about 2,000 RPM's to get moving good. But I like it alot more. My car picked up 6.4 tenths with the first stall change and another 2 tenths with the second stall. I pull 1.61 to 1.68 60's everytime.
My car had to lose 200 lbs (mostly the car but 50lbs was me) before it picked up MPH. I am still runing all stock motor just bolt-ons, tune, gears and my stall, car went 11.99 @ 112 last time out.
And I need to change my sig., numbers posted were on stock convertor. My car only put down 321rwhp and 325rwtq on the current stall.
Second stall is a 4,000. Does not drive like stock, about 2,000 RPM's to get moving good. But I like it alot more. My car picked up 6.4 tenths with the first stall change and another 2 tenths with the second stall. I pull 1.61 to 1.68 60's everytime.
My car had to lose 200 lbs (mostly the car but 50lbs was me) before it picked up MPH. I am still runing all stock motor just bolt-ons, tune, gears and my stall, car went 11.99 @ 112 last time out.
And I need to change my sig., numbers posted were on stock convertor. My car only put down 321rwhp and 325rwtq on the current stall.