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Pros and cons of running stock and aftermarket cooler?

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Old 01-26-2011, 08:39 AM
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Default Pros and cons of running stock and aftermarket cooler?

Alright I have the B&M 70264 cooler waiting to go in along with my stall. I'd like to run it inline with the stock cooler. What are the pros and cons of this and how would I go about
Old 01-26-2011, 08:40 AM
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How would I go about hooking it up this way, if I were to do this. Search came up with nothing on my phone. Thanks for the help!
Old 01-26-2011, 09:02 AM
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There is a lot of debate on this topic - if you search you'll probably find it.

I am not what B&M recommends, but the papers that came with my Perma-Cool cooler said that I should run it through the stock radiator trans cooler first.

Most guys with stalls will tell you that they have bypassed it.

I bypassed mine, but I do not have a 4L60E - I have a 4L80E. I used a fluid thermostat, which bypasses my aftermarket cooler completely until the transmission temp is up to operating temp (160-180*). I did this because I wanted to stay away from unnecessary restriction in the cooler lines, and the diameter of the radiator cooler is pretty small. My 4L80E also came out of cargo van, which did not have a radiator cooler, but a small external cooler.

I am sure more people will chime in with their thoughts.

Originally Posted by 1badWS6
Alright I have the B&M 70264 cooler waiting to go in along with my stall. I'd like to run it inline with the stock cooler. What are the pros and cons of this and how would I go about
Old 01-26-2011, 09:09 AM
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Cool man thanks for the insight. I tried searching on my phone but this mobile site ain't doing the job lol. Id like to run both but if its a pain or the cons outweigh the pros, then I obviously won't be doing it.
Old 01-26-2011, 12:15 PM
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Search brought me up nothing...
Old 01-26-2011, 12:39 PM
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Here's a write up i did on tranny coolers a while back. I ran my B&M in addition to the factory cooler, which is what most every manufacterer will reccomend. Run it "after" the factory cooler in the return line because the aftermarket cooler is obviously more effective than the stock one, thus if the aftermarket cooler is the last place the fluid is before it returns to the tranny, it will be the coolest when it returns. Real easy install, here's the write up:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...0e-f-body.html

Theres also an animated diagram of how it works in there.
Old 01-26-2011, 12:45 PM
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Hey man, thanks a lot. I get what you're saying. I'm gonna check that out now.
Old 01-26-2011, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MasterTomos
Here's a write up i did on tranny coolers a while back. I ran my B&M in addition to the factory cooler, which is what most every manufacterer will reccomend. Run it "after" the factory cooler in the return line because the aftermarket cooler is obviously more effective than the stock one, thus if the aftermarket cooler is the last place the fluid is before it returns to the tranny, it will be the coolest when it returns. Real easy install, here's the write up:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...0e-f-body.html

Theres also an animated diagram of how it works in there.
I've ran both for the last 6 years, It's got to be more effective and was easier to hook up that way. I run a Hayden and it was also recommeneded. Two coolers= cooler, a no brainer.
Old 01-26-2011, 01:20 PM
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Ya that was the mindset that I was in. I want both coolers so that's how I plan on doing it now.
Old 01-26-2011, 02:32 PM
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Right now I run my 1 aftermarket cooler (b&m70264) by itself. Up until snowfall this year I was drivng the car. Temps outside were below freezing. When I would start the car up from it sitting over night or a couple days, reading trans temps off the pcm would say average 20-30f. Im not a believer in the idea of trans fluid jelling up. I let it sit until closed loop and waited till trans temp was above freezing before driving the car. No problems.

Last summer I actualy ran a 2 cooler setup (both b&m70264) and believe it or not trans temps were not very much different. So maybe the extra pressure caused by the extra cooler lines cause enough heat to make temps the same as just 1 cooler? Who knows.

The main idea of bypassing the stock cooler is to keep the trans fluid away from the hotter coolant which goes through the radiator. In the beggining I was one to believe that using stock cooler in series w/aftermarket would be best option. But I choose to listen to the guys that have suposedly tried it and said its better to bypass. I personaly dont know for sure if bypassing stock cooler actualy aids in keeping trans fluid cooler. I havent done testing on it that way. But I may try it out next summer. I like to do my own research instead of just hearing opinions with no proof.

Iv tried mounting coolers in a few different locations. I found that mounted on the radiator works best. But I have a CAI kit so I have mine in a sort of non traditional dope style way.

When I get a stall this year ill most likely be trying more ways. Work is never ******* done LOL
Old 01-26-2011, 05:58 PM
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I know from personal experience that it is hard for coolant to get into the transmission lines if the internal cooler broke. It is always reverse. the radiator fills with transmission fluid. Its simple math, radiator 14-18 psi. trans line 180-200+ psi. now even though it would be nice to completely get away from this problem ever occurring I have always wondered the benefit of allowing the coolant to heat the trans fluid when warming up. I would think that an after market cooler inline with the stock cooler is the best option. Of course after the stock cooler as well.
Old 01-26-2011, 06:55 PM
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I assure you that the pressure running through your cooler lines is not 180 psi. That might be your "line pressure" inside the transmission, but it is not the pressure of the fluid going through the cooler system. If it was, my crappy temporary cooler line setup would have blown apart a long time ago. I don't know the exact pressure, but I think it's around 40 psi, but I'm not sure... I've seen varying numbers. This is still higher than the cooling system, so you would be pushing trans oil into the coolant. That is a very good point!

Originally Posted by Lt1Porsche
I know from personal experience that it is hard for coolant to get into the transmission lines if the internal cooler broke. It is always reverse. the radiator fills with transmission fluid. Its simple math, radiator 14-18 psi. trans line 180-200+ psi. now even though it would be nice to completely get away from this problem ever occurring I have always wondered the benefit of allowing the coolant to heat the trans fluid when warming up. I would think that an after market cooler inline with the stock cooler is the best option. Of course after the stock cooler as well.
Old 01-26-2011, 07:00 PM
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You are correct that the cooler line pressure is not that high. I guess the way I wrote it did appear to be that way. I meant just trans line pressure is general not actually at the cooler. I've never actually measured it a cooler. If I had to guess I would estimate between 30-60 psi actually within the cooler itself.
Old 01-26-2011, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by senicalj4579
Right now I run my 1 aftermarket cooler (b&m70264) by itself. Up until snowfall this year I was drivng the car. Temps outside were below freezing. When I would start the car up from it sitting over night or a couple days, reading trans temps off the pcm would say average 20-30f. Im not a believer in the idea of trans fluid jelling up. I let it sit until closed loop and waited till trans temp was above freezing before driving the car. No problems.

The main idea of bypassing the stock cooler is to keep the trans fluid away from the hotter coolant which goes through the radiator. In the beggining I was one to believe that using stock cooler in series w/aftermarket would be best option. But I choose to listen to the guys that have suposedly tried it and said its better to bypass. I personaly dont know for sure if bypassing stock cooler actualy aids in keeping trans fluid cooler. I havent done testing on it that way. But I may try it out next summer. I like to do my own research instead of just hearing opinions with no proof.

What you aim to accomplish should influence your choice of going through the stock cooler.

My goal is to keep the trans fluid between 160-180*. I want my trans fluid up to operating temperature ASAP. As a result, running through the radiator would make sense in most circumstances. Most would argue this is what the stock trans cooler was put there for in the first place... to warm up the trans fluid when it's cold, and cool it off when it's too hot. (See my post above - I actually used a separate thermostat for my trans fluid that bypasses the cooler until it warms up. I think that's the best solution to accomplish a consistent and cool trans fluid temp.)

However, if your aim is to keep the fluid as cool as possible for as long as possible, running through a separate aftermarket cooler only is an attractive option. It's also very simple, which is a good thing!! However, as long as the coolant in that side tank (the radiator's cooler outlet side) is cooler than the trans fluid, you will be taking heat out of the trans fluid and putting it in your engine coolant. If your target trans temp is really low, then you could get to a point where the radiator trans cooler would almost always add heat.
Old 01-26-2011, 08:13 PM
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I ran Yank ST3500 5 years with no temp guage with OE cooler and 24000 fin and plate cooler/fan installed after OE cooler, and bunt 2 sets of 3/4 clutches, about 8-900 miles ago installed Yank SS4000 AND 24000 tube type with fan and ADDED temp guage in pan still going threw OE cooler allso, after TC lock up @ 45 mph running temp about 180-190, but if cruies in town @ 10-15 mph temp goes to 220-230 , tried bypass OE cooler and temp DID NOT change still slow cruise at 220-230 I am going to reconnect the OE and stay out of slow town cruise.
both of the ext coolers are mounted DOPE STYLE

ps : I talked to the trans tech at local dealership how goes to dealer school each 6 months for update on trans, he stated that shool teaches that IF bypass OE cooler the external cooler looses about 40% of its cooling effinishse

I was also told that to run more that one ext cooler they MIGHT cause high trans pressure which would cause high trans temp ?

as stated I am running OE cooler/ one 24000 plate and fin with fan/ one 24000 tube type and fan and still IF do town cruise @ 10-15 mph beyound 10-15 minutes still running 220-230 trans temp ??

I also need help
MY apoligy to the OP, sorry for stepping on ypur post
Johnny

Last edited by SS SLP2; 01-26-2011 at 08:24 PM.
Old 01-26-2011, 08:37 PM
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Coolant does enter into the trans. When driving yes the oil pressure forces oil into the radiator, but when you shut the car off the oil pressure goes bye bye but the radiator stays pressurized until cooled down.
Old 01-26-2011, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SS SLP2
I ran Yank ST3500 5 years with no temp guage with OE cooler and 24000 fin and plate cooler/fan installed after OE cooler, and bunt 2 sets of 3/4 clutches, about 8-900 miles ago installed Yank SS4000 AND 24000 tube type with fan and ADDED temp guage in pan still going threw OE cooler allso, after TC lock up @ 45 mph running temp about 180-190, but if cruies in town @ 10-15 mph temp goes to 220-230 , tried bypass OE cooler and temp DID NOT change still slow cruise at 220-230 I am going to reconnect the OE and stay out of slow town cruise.
both of the ext coolers are mounted DOPE STYLE

ps : I talked to the trans tech at local dealership how goes to dealer school each 6 months for update on trans, he stated that shool teaches that IF bypass OE cooler the external cooler looses about 40% of its cooling effinishse

I was also told that to run more that one ext cooler they MIGHT cause high trans pressure which would cause high trans temp ?
as stated I am running OE cooler/ one 24000 plate and fin with fan/ one 24000 tube type and fan and still IF do town cruise @ 10-15 mph beyound 10-15 minutes still running 220-230 trans temp ??

I also need help
MY apoligy to the OP, sorry for stepping on ypur post
Johnny

So my Philosophy about the 2 coolers on my car cooling the same as one has someone else saying the same thing. Interesting
Old 01-26-2011, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by FastKat
What you aim to accomplish should influence your choice of going through the stock cooler.

My goal is to keep the trans fluid between 160-180*. I want my trans fluid up to operating temperature ASAP. As a result, running through the radiator would make sense in most circumstances. Most would argue this is what the stock trans cooler was put there for in the first place... to warm up the trans fluid when it's cold, and cool it off when it's too hot. (See my post above - I actually used a separate thermostat for my trans fluid that bypasses the cooler until it warms up. I think that's the best solution to accomplish a consistent and cool trans fluid temp.)

However, if your aim is to keep the fluid as cool as possible for as long as possible, running through a separate aftermarket cooler only is an attractive option. It's also very simple, which is a good thing!! However, as long as the coolant in that side tank (the radiator's cooler outlet side) is cooler than the trans fluid, you will be taking heat out of the trans fluid and putting it in your engine coolant. If your target trans temp is really low, then you could get to a point where the radiator trans cooler would almost always add heat.
I may just do some tests with the stocker in the loop this spring just to come up with concrete proof. People seem to have alot of opinions but cant back it up with real data.
I did testing on 2 ext coolers, 1 ext cooler, coolers in 3 different locations, but didnt do a test with the stocker. Im guessing it might be more harm than good because of the added pressure created by the cooler lines/extra cooler.
Old 01-27-2011, 08:05 AM
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Either way, I'm sure running the aftermarket along with the stock cooler shouldn't hurt it any.
Old 01-27-2011, 07:11 PM
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Also, to speak to the original post, there is also a theory that too much restriction in the trans cooling system (lines, cooler, fittings, etc) will damage the engine and/or transmission. Just a theory I've heard floating around. I have no experience with it, but it might be worth a search.


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